Grounding

[skokie]

If you dont have any accessories holes in the head where do you run the ground to on the negative side of the battery post?

Thanks

[68LSS1]

Doesn't really matter. Alternator bracket works as does a exhaust manifold bolt. As long as it's clean and protected.

[skokie]

How about a wire from the negative post to the frame or rad support?

[71swb4x4]

I ran mine to the water pump. I have also seen them go to the exhaust manifold.

[68LSS1]

As long as you ensure that the engine, cab and frame are all grounded together the battery can be grounded to any of them. Personally, I like to ground the battery to engine (unless the battery is in the back), the engine to the cab and the cab to the frame. It can be done many ways just remember that it will require a little preventive maintenance to ensure you don't have any starting/charging/erratic accessory operation.


Edit for: I know that for example, the cab is grounded to the frame via the cab mounts but I suggest using dedicated ground straps. Use another from the engine to cab, etc. If you do this you will never have a ground issue.

[69 Short Fleet]

I have mine grounded to the frame rail, used my dremmel and cleaned a spot really well (shiney). But what the other guys said is good also. I wouldn't use the rad support though. Dog

[skokie]

Let me ask this one to. What was the stock location for a 68 with a 327? 69 short fleet I believe I meant frame rail but was thinking of rad suppourt at the time

[krue]

On my 70 w/350, mine is grounded on an intake bolt, passenger front corner if I recall correctly

[69 Short Fleet]

I'm not sure if GM kept the neg. battery cable locations consistant for different years or not, ie. all 67's went on the head and all 68's went ont the manifold bolt ect. (just as an example). I'm pretty sure that all the braided ground straps had not much consistancy for the box, cab, firewall ect. as they were placed on different sides of the truck and different locations ect. For example you could have 2 68's built on the same day at the same factory on the same shift and it depended on the GM worker as the workers were given "general" grounding locations to install the braided ground straps. I think Longhorn man was talking about this quite a while back (if I remember right). Doug

[neonlarry]

The reason you want the main ground on the engine is because the biggest current draw is the starter. If your main ground is the frame and all you have is a couple of wimpy briads to the engine all your starter current will have to flow thru them, not ideal.

[Jetmech727]

IMO water pump looks best on that style setup

[355]

The bolt on the block directly in front of the fuel pump I think is the best. It has good size not subjected to high heat, that can cause resistance. It is the bolt that you use to hold the cam rider in when changing your fuel pump. Just a thought, the number one reason that a AC clutch will burn up is a bad ground. The Rice burners loop the heads, block, Alt, frame, etc all together for better performance from all of the electronic sensors.

[KOOLmike]

Remember, electricity always takes the path of the least resistance. Adding copper ground straps will be far better than just relying on the bolt-to connections between components.