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Old 08-04-2005, 04:56 PM   #1
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2K drop budget on a 72

I have a 72 C10 that I am wanting to lower. I still need the truck to remain functional ,such as daily small hauling, going up gravel driveways, speed bumps etc. I am not talking about hauling a ton of rock, but I have hauled furniture, building material, appliances and truck parts. I have never done any towing with the truck. My question is : If this was your truck and you had a $2000 budget what would you do. Be specific and complete with how you would modify it. Include everything : exhaust, crossmember, whatever. I do have a garage and access to a welder, I would do as much of the work myself as possible. I am not ruling out a notch or bags but I don't want to have to "step" the bed floor. The truck has just over 130K miles and I purchased it from a man who had owned it for 27 years. I don't want to do anything to it that I would regret later.
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Old 08-04-2005, 05:43 PM   #2
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I would just do a simple drop with spindles and springs. 2" dropped spindles with 2" drop springs and then drop springs in the rear. Not a lot of money spent with that so you can maybe buy new rims and tires.
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:19 PM   #3
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I should have mentioned that I would prefer that the truck sit level. I don't personaly care for the forward rake look. I also didn't mention that the truck already has a 1.25" front sway bar and an ECE quick ratio steering box.
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:31 PM   #4
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Yeah, with the 2" drop spindles and 2" front springs then 4" springs in the rear. Drop it 4 " all the way around!
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:39 PM   #5
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If it was mine I would do a 2-4 drop with springs. 2 inch in front, 4 inch in back. It will look lower but still be useable as a truck. You could also keep the ralleys and tires as well. ECE sells a kit with everyhting you need.
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:02 PM   #6
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A 2" 4" still seems to have to much of a rake for me. I have thought about a dropped spindle and a 5" spring in the rear.
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:16 PM   #7
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Maybe I am wrong, but doesn't a 2-4 make the truck level? I also like the trucks sitting even and i thought 2-4 did that. ECE's stance pics http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.asp...nce%20Photos-2 show a 67-72 with a 2 1/2 - 4 drop and there is a slight rake. I would think 2 and 4 would be level. Any board members have pics of their 2-4 drop? Maybe this isn't the drop you want, but never hurts to check it out, especially with so many pics available on the board here.
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD
Maybe I am wrong, but doesn't a 2-4 make the truck level? I also like the trucks sitting even and i thought 2-4 did that. ECE's stance pics http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.asp...nce%20Photos-2 show a 67-72 with a 2 1/2 - 4 drop and there is a slight rake. I would think 2 and 4 would be level. Any board members have pics of their 2-4 drop? Maybe this isn't the drop you want, but never hurts to check it out, especially with so many pics available on the board here.
I think just about all of the ECE kits have a slight rake to them. I do have a few truck magazines held back with pictures of trucks with a 3" 6" on them. At 6" in the rear ECE strongly suggested I convert my truck to a 1 piece driveshaft and use their trailing arm crossmember. I have not discussed with them what is required for a 5" rear drop.
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:29 PM   #9
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ya they are gonna tell you that you need to buy all their ****! Its bull loney! Do they make 6" springs anymore? I know I had them for my truck but I dont think they make them anymore? I dunno. Go with the 2.5 spindle and a 6" spring out back with the panhard kit. I guess you need the shocks relocators too. But that crossmember is bull****! Your stock one will come no where near dragging!
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Old 08-05-2005, 03:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaredm82
ya they are gonna tell you that you need to buy all their ****! Its bull loney! Do they make 6" springs anymore? I know I had them for my truck but I dont think they make them anymore? I dunno. Go with the 2.5 spindle and a 6" spring out back with the panhard kit. I guess you need the shocks relocators too. But that crossmember is bull****! Your stock one will come no where near dragging!
I think part of the reason for the crossmember is because the driveshaft gets so close to the top of the loop in the stock version. The ECE crossmember is taller on the top of the loop. I am also pretty sure that they still sell a 6" spring for the rear.
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Old 08-05-2005, 03:51 PM   #11
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I've got the 4/6 ECE drop on my 70' C10 and have no problems. Heck after 2 years now i forget the things even lowered at all. I have no problems with speedbumps(I go slow over them anyways) or any clearance issues.

One thing i recommend, after you lower your truck, find a capable tech to align the frontend for you, not any tech will do. It's not a set and forget deal, they may have to play with the adjustments alittle to make it right. It took me 4 shops to find a decent tech(Bad judgement on my part).
If you talk with the alignment tech, tell him what you've done with the truck and that it might take some adjustment to get it right. See what he's says, I found an older guy that understands the old cars and trucks and has a knowledge of how to correct different problems. They're are alot of techs out there that don't have a clue.
Most shops won't want to mess with lowered vehicles, it's a matter of finding the right shop.
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Old 08-05-2005, 05:00 PM   #12
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I would research some other drops on the same model type as Heavy D suggested. Keeping the size tires, rims, drop, and parts used for it in mind. But are you at lease concerned with 130K+ on the engine and trans? It may not smoke or knock and may have been well taken care of,
but a drop won’t do much for physical drive train failure ware and tear.

Don’t mean to torpedo your ideas for dropping it, but you did mention the miles and I would want to make sure it kept on truckin before I made mod investments if it was me. Even if you had to wait to get another 2g’s, at least you’ve removed the big possibly of engine or tranny failure or both.

Just something to think about, but you would know your situation better then me.
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Old 08-05-2005, 10:39 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JonnyTechMech
I would research some other drops on the same model type as Heavy D suggested. Keeping the size tires, rims, drop, and parts used for it in mind. But are you at lease concerned with 130K+ on the engine and trans? It may not smoke or knock and may have been well taken care of,
but a drop won’t do much for physical drive train failure ware and tear.

Don’t mean to torpedo your ideas for dropping it, but you did mention the miles and I would want to make sure it kept on truckin before I made mod investments if it was me. Even if you had to wait to get another 2g’s, at least you’ve removed the big possibly of engine or tranny failure or both.

Just something to think about, but you would know your situation better then me.
Thanks for your concern but I guess I should have said that the truck itself has 130K. The drivetrain has already been went through and has very low miles on it . The engine has been bored 0.30 over and was an otherwise stock rebuild. I went back and added an edelbrock intake, comp cams roller tip rockers, underdrive pulleys and removed the fan on the water pump and replaced it with a flex a lite electric unit. I added HEI, a 108 amp internaly regulated alternator, MSD coil and wires. The transmission has also been went through and shifts solid with no leaks. If the motor ever fails I plan on finding something fuel injected with an OD behind it to drop in. We have been driving this truck on a regular basis for over a year and a half with no problems. I feel confident that are a lot of miles left to go on the mechanicals and I am ready for some drop.
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Old 08-06-2005, 12:31 AM   #14
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There was a thread on here a few months ago (or more) showing different drops people had done. It was very informative as they listed what drop and what size tires/rims were used. It might be worth it to sift through the old posts and see if it can be found.
*EDIT* Found the link (one of em at least)..check this out. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...threadid=19255
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Old 08-06-2005, 01:12 AM   #15
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Asa,

I'd go with the 4/6 drop kit that ECE sells. I think it's around $800 and you have plenty of money left over. That's what I got for mine.

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Old 08-06-2005, 04:32 PM   #16
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Here's my last truck.

It's 4.5 in front, 6 in rear.

Front is 2.5 spindle and 2 inch spring, rear is 6 inch spring. I used the full boat ECE kit. Everything works great and the truck sits dead level. Don't be fooled by my driveway, on level ground, it's level.

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Old 08-06-2005, 08:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by see ten
I think part of the reason for the crossmember is because the driveshaft gets so close to the top of the loop in the stock version. The ECE crossmember is taller on the top of the loop.
The top of the driveshaft loop on my truck is stock and the driveshaft doesn't hit. You'll be fine without it.
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Old 08-07-2005, 03:54 AM   #18
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There is a sticky at the top of the 67-72 message board showing more lowering and wheel sizes. I look at this thing every day and didn't even notice it there until now
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