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08-12-2002, 01:48 PM | #1 |
newly minted old timer
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Hudson WI
Posts: 3,521
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a/c compressor rebuild?
can a person just replace the compressor clutch w/o disturbing the a/c system? i think my clutch went out, burned the new belt, right off. think the barrings in there finaly went.. had been making some noise for a while..
or will i have to replace the whole compressor?? if i can replace it, whats envalved. is it just a matter of unbolting the old one and bolting the new one one? i really hope that is the case
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____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban Last edited by mtdave2; 08-12-2002 at 01:58 PM. |
08-12-2002, 05:31 PM | #2 |
newly minted old timer
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Hudson WI
Posts: 3,521
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anyone?
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____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban |
08-12-2002, 06:27 PM | #3 |
member #16
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Yuba City Ca.
Posts: 3,618
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Yes I think you can,but there are special tools involved. The tools are kind of pricey. An A/C shop should be able to do the job.
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08-12-2002, 07:14 PM | #4 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 929
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If its a A-6 (Axial 6 used from factory) You will need a clutch hub puller, once the hub is off there is a large snap ring to remove and the pulley comes off. Then you will find a larger snap ring to remove the clutch coil assembly. To install, just reverse the order but pay attention to the intructions.. You will need to adjust the air gap on the clutch hub to pulley. Typically .018 to .024 will do fine.
If the System was working fine up until that point, You might get lucky and just install a new clutch assembly and your on the road again. The bearing failed for a reason... bad bearing? or failing compressor (locking up) Make sure that compressor still turns smoothly or you could be back in the same spot again. I'll say this though... The A-6 compressor is one of the most inexpensive compressors made now. If you can find a reman unit I bet you money its going to be just as cheap as a clutch assembly (about 59.95). One last warning, lol! When the bearing is locking up there is tremendous heat build up at the front of the compressor. There is a 50/50 chance that its also overheating and ruining the front shaft seal which will cause a leak. If it were mine, I'd probably replace the compressor since the cost is the same. But then again.. I dont hav eto pay someone to evac and recharge the system. If you dont have the tools to do this right, replace the compressor and have it charged. You be better off in the long run |
08-17-2002, 03:33 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: KC, NW Missouri
Posts: 144
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Expense is a factor, should you decide to change the compressor,
as to what type of freon your system has. Obviously, R-12 will cost considerably more than R-134a to recharge your A/C. Also, there are remanufactered compressors now with seals that are compatible with either R-12 or R-134a. Earlier this summer, I tried the shortcut way of changing my system from R-12 to R-134a. Drained R-12 ref.oil, added R-134a oil, had system evacuated and charged with 134a freon. Lasted 4 days. All at once, compressor started dragging so bad it literally smoked the clutch (smelled like burning rubber). Replaced compressor, recharged system (w/134a), so far so good. Hope this helps. |
08-17-2002, 03:37 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 1,098
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I am in the same situation as mtdave. I was gonna hold off on working on it until next summer but now at least I know. My brother is into refridgeration, heating, AC..... pipefitter. I think he's planning on doing it.
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Nick Rodenberg 72 Cheyenne 10 V8 350/TH350 white/ochre/white/ochre, ochre/saddle interior Retired and in the dry... still runs. I now drive Red '01 Ford Focus... better MPG!!! |
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