Por15 engine paint kit...?

[tomatocity]

Originally Posted by 70c10swb

i was thinking of doing my engine red because EVERYONE on the planet has chevy orange (not that theres anything wrong with it i like the looks but im trying to be different). I was going to do a light color like gray but all i can find is aluminum.

I have been painting my engines black since 1967. Black makes the components standout better. Black with Clear makes the dark areas show texture.

Chevy Orange is still a longtime favorite and I would use it in a 'Heartbeat' if I had the opportunity.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by cdowns

Stacey DAVID??? a talking head if somebody paid him to push used septic water for your cooling system he'd be sellin you **** with a smile

He wasn't really pushing a product so much as telling you everything you need to know - different ways to paint, extras you ca do for dress up, types of paint, when to use each, how to shoot each one, pretty informative. He went over two different engines: one for a daily driver, one for a show vehicle. Gave all the ins-and-outs of what you would do for each, showed some tricks on how to color-match finned aluminum or chrome valve covers, etc. Very cool. Talks about how to polish steel and aluminum products also so you don't hafta worry about them going dull anymore also.

tomatocity - I got your PM. I'm uploading the 20min part of the show for you. The audio and video are about 1 second out of sync by the end of the show and it's ~375MB in size, so I hope you're not on dialup

[tomatocity]

What is the difference between POR15 and POR Engine Paint?

It would be good to see an unbiased comparison chart with all the different engine paints, prepartion, application, and finish.

I will throw in another brand. I am going to use Rust Doctor on the rear frame and bed underside. I will post a thread after it is complete.

[shifty]

POR-15 is the name of the company. People just call it POR for short.

The only supposedly unbiased comparison I could ever find was on the body stuff, not the engine product. Nautrally, Eastwood saved it and published it at their site. That is here: http://www.eastwood.com/jump.jsp?ite...88&iSubCat=852

There was another thread about this at the forum that was relatively civil, but it also talked about the body stuff: http://207.44.196.117/vboard/showthread.php3?t=129741

[tomatocity]

Originally Posted by shifty

POR-15 is the name of the company. People just call it POR for short.

I understand the name thing and that is why I asked the difference. POR is an acronym for Paint On Rust. Obviously the engine paint does not require rust as a bonding agent as POR-15 does. Is there a difference in the type of POR paints?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by matthufham

......are those z28 valve covers?

It's not a very good pic, but these are Z/28-Corvette valve covers...

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by tomatocity

Tx, reread the posts please. I did not read any problems with this discussion. In fact this discussion is so good I am saving it for future reference. Now about Moderator school

I assure you, I reread all of the posts, several times, before I said anything. I even went away and thought about it before I came back and posted what I did. There's been a bit of escalation lately in some posts and the bosses (higher than me) don't like it to happen.

[Daxcor]

I work at a restoration shop and this is what we found with the por15 stuff. I haven't sprayed it on an engine yet.

This stuff sticks like sh*t to a blanket and is rock hard. We have not found anything else that compares to it in these respects. The down side to this product if you want to call it that is the prep and finish.

If you don't prep the metal properly you are toast. IT WILL NOT STICK TO BRAND NEW METAL PERIOD!!!! (without prep)

The prep is the biggie here. You have to either sandblast the new metal to create tooth. Or you have to use the cleaner/ metal prep system that they sell. If you do not you will have a disaster on your hands. We found even using 80 grit disk on the metal first was not good enough in some cases. I know that sounds nuts but that is what has happened.

After talking with the por people they said that you should never use a solvent based cleaner to prep the metal. Thinks like acceton, final wipe etc are all solvent based cleaners. They said to use any water based cleaner like their own marine clean or things like the Castrol Purple degreaser. During the cleaning phase we use a scotch bright pad to scrub the surface clean. Rinse with free flowing water (hose). On really dirty stuff like suspension parts we used the solvent based cleaners to get the majority of the crud off then we did the final clean with the water based stuff.

The metal etch is really important. We use the por metal ready with a scotch bright pad to scrub the surface. Make sure you keep the area wet and leave it for about 10-15 min. Now rinse off the excess with free flowing water (direct quote from por15 people). Do not use any thing to wipe the surface just the water. When you are done rinsing we used air to dry it off.

The finish is the one thing that I have a hard time with. We reduce our paint 4:1 with the por solvent. I spray down two coats of the reg por then the last coat with the chassis coat black. I just can't get a nice finish. Granted I am a rookie to painting so bare that in mind. But for a nice chassis black finish I have yet to see anything nicer than Zerorust. So I will be painting zero rust as my top coat on any por parts that will be seen.

Note:

You can spray anything you want on top of the por15 product as long as you are in the recoat window. This will vary with temp but anywhere from 2-4 hours. Once it is set you would have to scuff the paint before anything would stick on top of it.

Hope this helps

Brad
73 Nova SS Hatchback
77 Nova Hatchback (stock car)
68 GMC Short Box Step Side

[4x4Poet]

Good info, Daxcor.

Originally Posted by tomatocity

I understand the name thing and that is why I asked the difference. POR is an acronym for Paint On Rust. Obviously the engine paint does not require rust as a bonding agent as POR-15 does. Is there a difference in the type of POR paints?

Both are moisture curing coatings. AFAIK, the engine paint has a higher temp rating. Otherwise, I think the only difference is the color choice differences. And many engine blocks will have rust in the cast pits, so POR's rust adhering capabilities work well on engines.

[arkracing]

Heads, Block, Timing Cover, and Oil Pan were all SPRAYED with POR15's Motor Black. Please note that this stuff goes a very long way...if spraying it only mix a little bit because you can't reuse it once you take it out of the can. I mixed a tad too much - there is about 5 coats on this motor

The Block and Heads were "Airless Shot Machined" which is like sandblasting, and the Timing Cover and Oil Pan Were GlassBeaded. (Valve Covers are Crinkle PowderCoated)

I just scotchpadded the block down good then scotch padded it again with laquer thinner, and sprayed it. I didn't use thier regular Por Rust Paint first either.

If it flakes of...I learned my lesson and will paint it again. If not no harm done. To be honest It doesn't bother me to take the motor back out if i have to paint it again. It is only going in an open fendered P/U.

Oh and the paint has cured for about a 1 year @ this point . I've been too busy resoting this '69 Chevy so the '33 has been on hold and the poor motor gets turned and oil shot down the clyinders 1ce every two weeks

[4x4Poet]

Akracing, not to sidetrack the thread, but is that an oil filler spout on that valve cover? Nice. Please tell me what brand valve covers those are and what oil spout that is (assuming I'm right). Or maybe I should turn my accelerator off so I can see any writing cast into them.

[arkracing]

They Are M/T's with the M/T Machined Off of them and the Breathers installed in their place. Yeh you pur the oil into the breather as well....you have to unscrew the top cap and take the foam filter thing out.

I bought them off a board member (superchevy i think) and he had them already powdercoated with the breathers already installed.

the valve covers should be pretty easy to find (if not i have a set that are in pretty good shape that i would sell for $60+shipping) they aren't machined for the breathers either.

the breathers you can get from www.mooneyesusa.com or your local swap meet or ebay. The ones on my covers are pretty old..as in original from the 60's or 70's. www.speedwaymotors.com has the "Offy" style which bolt into the side of the valve cover (they look better on small blocks...i.m.o.)

Only problem with this set up is that i'm worried about positive crankcase pressure (the breathers might not release the pressure quick enough (like PCV that would suck the pressure out). I guess we'll find out. I'll just have a PCV hole machined into one side if need be

[shifty]

If anyone else wants this Trucks! episode covering Engine Dressup, I need to know. Otherwise, I'm going to remove it from my website.

It's about 20 minutes of video footage and it's about 370MB in size. Shoot me a PM.

[chickenwing]

Puttin in another good word for the por engine paint. I have sprayed it and brushed it. Thinned per their reccomendations it still sucked to spray. Turned out ok though. Even though I just KNEW those lil blobs were gonna show. Glad I was wrong. The brush I used on my first motor turned out just as good and was a heck of a lot easier to apply.

Only prep I did on the last crate motor was to wipe it down with marine clean. Still looks nice and it has been 10 months.