Cool project

[Hart_Rod]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=166465

[N2TRUX]

Looks like it's not for sale now....

[Hart_Rod]

Thanks TRUXs,

I think I have my 48 sold, so I guess I'm going to keep it. In all honesty, I would probably never find one in nicer shape than this one is. I don't know when I'll finish it, but when I get ready, it will be an awesome start.

Rob

[50crimm]

Hart_Rob I noticed theat the '48 that you sold has an lt-1 and 4l60e in it that it what I was planning for the '50 that I just started. Where there any major issues to overcome using that engine - trans?? Do you have any pics or other advice???

[Hart_Rod]

Sorry for posting so late. Biggest problem..............$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!

Very little difference in the fabrication to make it work. It's just more expensive for the parts and pieces for the LT1. Here is a link to some of the fabrication on my truck:

http://www.stripmasterspor15.com/car015.html

If you have any specific questions let me know and I will try to answer them or if you want to buy a truck that is already completed, mine is back on the market.

Rob

[solidaxel]

Rob, I want to see a photo of the fender to hood gap along the top of the fenders, if you have any!!
I am trying to align the hood and fenders and they seem to be a little different from side to side and in the middle !!!!!!

[Hart_Rod]

Try this:
The following procedure may be used to correct improperly fitted hoods. Use
all or any part of this procedure as necessary to obtain proper appearance
and operation.

1. Loosen fender and skirt attaching bolts to body. Loosen radiator support bolts.
Push fenders down to provide clearance for hood adjustment.
2. Check and adjust fender skirt to dash brace rods. Measurements
should be taken from center of bolt head to edge or brackets. Lefts side 27
1/4" Right 27"
3. Loosen outer hood hinge bolts completely, both sides.
4. Disconnect hood supports from hood and swing hood supports down out
of the way. Loosen the bolts attaching the hood supports to body, both
sides. This will permit vertical adjustment of hood supports after hood
alignment is completed.
5. Loosen two inner hood hinge bolts, both sides. Leave these bolts
just snug so that hinge can just be moved by jarring or exerting pressure on
the hood.
6. Remove the hood lock plate.
7. Adjust hood fore and aft to obtained 1/8" to 1/4" gap between rear
edge of hood and cowl ledge.
NOTE: IF THE GAP IS NOT EVEN, TIGHT AT SIDES AND OPEN AT TOP CENTER OR
VICE VERSA, ADD OR REMOVE SHIMS BETWEEN THE RADIATOR SUPPORT AND FRAME CROSS
MEMBER, AS NECESSARY TO OBTAIN EVEN HOOD GAP AT HOOD LEDGE, BOTH AT CENTER
AND SIDES, AND TIGHTEN RADIATOR SUPPORT BOLTS TO 5 FT. LBS.
8. Lift front of hood and place 4" block under hood nose to hold it up.
9. Force rear end of hood down tightly on hood anti-squeak. Hood
should be down very tight against the anti-squeak to compensate for upward
push of hood supports after they are connected. Supports will push the hood
up as far as the play in the hinge rivets will allow. Center hood as
necessary without disturbing fore and aft position and tighten two inner
hood hinge bolts on each side while hood is held down.
NOTE: IF HOOD HINGES BOTTOM ON UNEVEN SURFACE ON THE STEP AT COW SIDES
BEFORE HOOD IS DOWN TO POSITION DESCRIBED ABOVE, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO
REMOVE HINGES AND SMOOTH OR HAMMER THE STEP TO REMOVE BUMPS TO PERMIT
LOWERING OF THE HINGES. IF THE HOOD IS STILL NOT DOWN FAR ENOUGH, IT MAY BE
NECESSARY TO ENLARGE AND ELONGATE THE HOLES IN THE COWL WITH A RAT TAIL
FILE. THIS WILL PERMIT THE HINGE ATTACHING BOLTS TO ROTATE IN THE SLOTTED
HOLES IN THE COWL WHEN THE HOOD IS PUSHED DOWN, AND DUE TO THE POSITION OF
THE HINGE ARMS ON THE HINGES, MAY ALLOW ADDITIONAL DOWNWARD MOVEMENT OF THE
HOOD.
10. Remove the 4" block, lower hood and check hood fit at cowl. Hood
should be very tight against the anti-squeak across top of cowl. If the
hood touches the anti-squeak tightly at the sides but bows up in the center,
adjust as follows:
A) Remove two outer screws on each side holding center bracket to hood
reinforcement at rear of hood.
B) Loosen two inner screw in bracket.
C) Pry outer ends of bracket away from reinforcement and place flat washers
as necessary between outer ends of bracket and reinforcement on both sides.
D) Reinstall outer screws through the flat washers and tighten all brackets
to reinforcement attaching screws securely.
This will bring center of hood down and reduce the possibility of flutter at
the center of hood. If hood still does not touch anti-squeak tightly after
the above operations, it will be necessary to shim under anti-squeak to
prevent hood flutter, as it is not possible to lower hood further.
11. Tighten outer hood hinge bolts, both sides.
12. Reassemble hood supports to hood, both sides. With hood in raised
position and resting on hood supports, tighten bolts attaching hood supports
to dash, both sides. These were originally loosened at the dash to permit
vertical adjustment of the hood support after the hood had been adjusted to
its new position. This re-adjustment is necessary to prevent the
possibility of one hood support being fully locked in the open position and
the other being partially open.
13. Replace hood lock plate, tightening plate attaching screws just
snug, and push hood lock plate to the rear as far as the clearance in the
screw holes will allow. Drop hood to closed position and lock, this will
center hood lock plate. Then raise hood, move lock plate forward 1/32" and
tighten lock plate screws.
14. Adjust lock stud to proper length as necessary to hold hood closed.
The lock stud may appear to be too short to get proper adjustment. This
will usually be due to bent hood lock plate or bent upper catch plate, these
plates being bent by slamming the hood shut while improperly adjusted. It
will be necessary to straighten the bent plates if this condition exists, to
bring the lock stud to proper position to hold hood closed.
15. Lower hood to locked position and raise rear end of fenders to fit
lower edge of hood and tighten fender and skirt to body attaching parts.

[solidaxel]

Thanks Rob,
The hood fits the cowl and side at the rear and the front is even with the fenders and the latch closes very good. the problem I am having is in the middle top of fenders where the rubber bumpers on the hood meet the fenders the gap is too wide. This is all fine until I put the springs back on, then the hood is pushed up away from the cowl. I guess I could leave the springs off !!!!