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Old 08-26-2005, 10:15 PM   #1
red86chevy
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2" drop spindle question

If i install 2" drop spindles on my '86 will I have any trouble with pieces not fitting properly or will it be just like bolting a stock one back up? I.E....will any parts have to be cut on or grinded on?

About how long will changing both spindles take? (what ever it is I can add on about 2 extra hours)


And also in Sumitt it has a set for heave duty rotors(1.25") and a set for 1" rotors. What part of the rotor do I need to measure to find out which ones I have.

They also have a little astric (*) beside the part number which says additional parts may be required. What parts might they be refering too?
Sorry for all the questions. I'm 19 and still learning.
Thanks,
Jeremy
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Last edited by red86chevy; 08-26-2005 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 08-26-2005, 11:43 PM   #2
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I used 2.5 inch spindles. I don't think anyone makes a 2 inch. In the Summit catalog it says 2 inch, but the fine print says 2.5 inch for C10s.

If you use the 2.5" you should only have to bend your brake line out of the way a little bit. If you use 3 inch spindles, you may have to do some grinding on the caliper, especially of you have 15 inch wheels.

If you have never done any front end work before, I would allow yourself a whole day to do the work. There are some good instructions on 73-87.com, and I have something I wrote up once that might be helpful.

Slonaker

EDIT: I can't think of any extra part you will need other than a couple of grease seals and some grease to repack your bearings.

A good rule of thumb is that if you can fit your finger in the holes along the edge of your rotor, you have the 1 1/4 inch brakes. If not, you have the lighter 1 inch brakes.
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Last edited by Slonaker; 08-26-2005 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 08-27-2005, 12:02 AM   #3
milehightoyz
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get you an extra pack of cotter pins and some wd-40
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Old 08-27-2005, 12:02 AM   #4
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also if its your first time doing it id say maybe 3-4 hours
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Old 08-27-2005, 01:55 AM   #5
85X3
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Sopport your lower control arm under the spring pocket. Remove brake caliper and support with coat hanger, or tie wraps (panduit cable ties). Remove rotor. Remove cotter pins from outer tie rod. Rap the third arm (the part that the tie rod is connected to) with a BFH. Take care not to hit the threads. Remove cotter pins from the upper and lower balljoints. Leave both castle nuts (upper and lower balljount) about four turns on the studs. Rap the spindle at the boss (cast flat on spindle) with a BFH until they break loose. (A Pickle fork will destroy your grease boots) Then remove spindle and re-assemble. Tighten the castle nuts to proper torque and install cotter pins. Never loosen castle nuts to align cotter pin hole. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Fairly easy job, just remember safety first. Good Luck
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Old 08-27-2005, 02:27 AM   #6
boxrodz
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To add to what everyone said:

Installing drop spindles is like bolting on stocks one. You may have to slightly re-align the bend in the brake line near the caliper. Also, depending on the amount of the drop, grinding may be needed to clear the wheels. Mainly, on 3" drop spindles, the lip (gutter) on the LCA will need a bit of grinding. Like Slonaker posted, I believe only 2 1/2" and 3" drop spindles are available.

Measure the thickness of the rotors where the pads ride to determine the size of the rotors you're running. (If you have the 1" rotors, but want to run the thicker ones, you could sway out the rotors and calipers and get the spindles for the 1 1/4" rotors.)

While you're at it, you may want to check your front suspension for worn parts like the upper and lower ball joints, tie rods, idler/pitman arms, center rod and the UCA and LCA bushings. It's a good time to replace any worn parts while you have it apart. Maybe, spray bomb the parts if you're up to it.

The procedures Slonaker are referring to are located on Jeff's site. Make sure you torque the suspension parts with them loaded. Retorque them again after a 100 miles or so. (BTW, be very careful when removing the existing spindle. The coil spring is under extreme pressure.)

Stop by your local auto parts store like Autozone to see if they 'loan out' tools to help tear apart the front suspension. And, as milehightoyz, get some penetrating oil to help. I'm trying Moly grease on all my ball joints.

I spend a weekend replacing all my front suspension parts. It felt like 90% of the time was spent cleaning. urrggg.

Good Luck.
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