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Old 08-27-2005, 02:27 AM   #6
boxrodz
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Rocky Mountain Front Range
Posts: 1,301
To add to what everyone said:

Installing drop spindles is like bolting on stocks one. You may have to slightly re-align the bend in the brake line near the caliper. Also, depending on the amount of the drop, grinding may be needed to clear the wheels. Mainly, on 3" drop spindles, the lip (gutter) on the LCA will need a bit of grinding. Like Slonaker posted, I believe only 2 1/2" and 3" drop spindles are available.

Measure the thickness of the rotors where the pads ride to determine the size of the rotors you're running. (If you have the 1" rotors, but want to run the thicker ones, you could sway out the rotors and calipers and get the spindles for the 1 1/4" rotors.)

While you're at it, you may want to check your front suspension for worn parts like the upper and lower ball joints, tie rods, idler/pitman arms, center rod and the UCA and LCA bushings. It's a good time to replace any worn parts while you have it apart. Maybe, spray bomb the parts if you're up to it.

The procedures Slonaker are referring to are located on Jeff's site. Make sure you torque the suspension parts with them loaded. Retorque them again after a 100 miles or so. (BTW, be very careful when removing the existing spindle. The coil spring is under extreme pressure.)

Stop by your local auto parts store like Autozone to see if they 'loan out' tools to help tear apart the front suspension. And, as milehightoyz, get some penetrating oil to help. I'm trying Moly grease on all my ball joints.

I spend a weekend replacing all my front suspension parts. It felt like 90% of the time was spent cleaning. urrggg.

Good Luck.
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