Door striker??? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

greenhorn male · 09-01-2005, 01:41 AM

The thing that mounts on the pillar that the door latch strikes. It has a plastic sleeve that doesn't last long and when this happens, you have to slam the door. The last few times I had to buy the whole post assembly. Could the sleeve be purchased separately in larger packages. Is there anything that lasts longer? It's for a 73 burb and I need at least two more now.

*iceman7329* · 09-01-2005, 01:49 AM

Ill have you a two dollar fix for this in the morning that you can buy at any hard ware store. got to go look at mine for size and what it is called.

Muddytazz · 09-01-2005, 01:50 AM

You can get them at Napa

*iceman7329* · 09-01-2005, 01:53 AM

Mine last longer. And are cheaper. Just so you know. Not trying to be rude or anything.

Muddytazz · 09-01-2005, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman7329

Mine last longer. And are cheaper. Just so you know. Not trying to be rude or anything.

No rudeness taken....If yours will last longer, then I'm all ears also to know what you used

greenhorn male · 09-01-2005, 01:57 AM

I'll be checking back in tomorrow. Thanks for the info.

*iceman7329* · 09-01-2005, 01:58 AM

If I remember right its pvc pipe.

*iceman7329* · 09-01-2005, 01:58 AM

Or some kind of plastic pipe I have to go look.

bigarmzz · 09-01-2005, 04:09 AM

you can buy these at any parts stores...ie, napa, auto zone, advance auto.etc...

buy a pack of them, take one of them to the local hardware store, and buy the same diameter in "copper"...buy a foot or two of the correct diameter, and cut to fit...

.....copper is soft, but i've found will last alot longer than pcv plastic

bodydropped · 09-01-2005, 09:43 AM

u can use eletical tape that what we used alot of times but when i redid my truck i bough tnew ones and them things are 24 buck new from gm

greenhorn male · 09-01-2005, 07:49 PM

Thanks for the responses. Copper sounds good, but, would it give you more of a metal to metal rattle on bumps? I'm going to have to start experimenting with different materials of the same size, as the ones bought at the auto parts stores don't seem to last. PVC sounds kinda large event he 1/2" size. How about the black drip system piping that comes in different sizes. Those seem to hold even when laid above ground exposed to the elelments?

ureckme · 09-01-2005, 11:26 PM

I'm a body man, just so you guys dont think Im full of it. I fixed both of mine about a year ago. When I saw this post I went down and looked at my door strikers and they both look perfect. So heres a kwik fix and every one has this lay'n around. Use a 1 inch piece of black 5/8 heater hose. Take the big washer off the striker put on the piece of hose, then put back together. It works better then a new one it wont let the door beat on the striker and the door fits better. Matt

bigarmzz · 09-01-2005, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenhorn male

Thanks for the responses. Copper sounds good, but, would it give you more of a metal to metal rattle on bumps? I'm going to have to start experimenting with different materials of the same size, as the ones bought at the auto parts stores don't seem to last. PVC sounds kinda large event he 1/2" size. How about the black drip system piping that comes in different sizes. Those seem to hold even when laid above ground exposed to the elelments?

well, you get the diameter of copper pipe that fits very tightly over the striker.....you have to "pursuade" it on...it wont rattle...i've done this several times

greenhorn male · 09-02-2005, 12:32 AM

I'll try all the suggestions and see how they work. I have 4 doors on this burb and at least two of them are gone and one is worn. I'll try to experiment with different sleeves of similar size on different doors.

Bigarmzz...I was concerned about the the door latch metal against another metal, but copper is soft enough it probably would be ok. I'm just tired of searching for the striker kits at parts stores and have to replace them after a few months.

Matt...I was getting ready to throw away my excess heater hose. I guess I'll be keeping it handy.

greenhorn male · 09-03-2005, 03:47 PM

I ended up with 4 strikers with no sleeves after the last one broke yesterday. This morning I started to remove the strikers starting from the rear after cutting up my excess heater hose in 1" sections and lo and behold, I couldn't gain access to the panel behind the pillar because the previous owner carpetted the side panels using some hefty contact cement or glue. I wasn't in the mood to start ripping carpet off so I went to the quick fix "Bodydropped" suggested and wrapped several layers of electrical tape around them. The front door pillars has speakers screwed on to them, so I taped those as well. The doors close and feel remarkably well. I have the heater hose in my glovebox ready in case the tape wears fast. The rears should last sometime because it's hardly ever used. I'll swap out the front sleeves when I start working on the stereo system.

Is there any chance of the paint behind the carpet being saved while removing the adhesive. I'd like to remove the carpet if it doesn't tear up the interior paint. The previous owner meticulously cut and fitted the carpet around the 4 door panels, and on both rear side panels and around the rear side windows. Unless there is a way to remove the carpet without ripping the paint off and cleaning the adhesive off, I think I'll leave it as is for now. I know one thing, it's pretty quite in the burb while driving.

Muddytazz · 09-04-2005, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenhorn male

Is there any chance of the paint behind the carpet being saved while removing the adhesive. I'd like to remove the carpet if it doesn't tear up the interior paint. The previous owner meticulously cut and fitted the carpet around the 4 door panels, and on both rear side panels and around the rear side windows. Unless there is a way to remove the carpet without ripping the paint off and cleaning the adhesive off, I think I'll leave it as is for now. I know one thing, it's pretty quite in the burb while driving.

May take a long time, but use a hair dryer to heat it up and slowly pull the carpet away.

MylilBowTie · 09-04-2005, 10:57 AM

Could be wrong but isn't that fixing the symptoms of the bigger problem hinge pins and bushings / or worn hinges themselves?

short chevy · 09-04-2005, 06:54 PM

Could be wrong but isn't that fixing the symptoms of the bigger problem hinge pins and bushings / or worn hinges themselves?[QUOTE]
__________________
Im with you on that . redid mine awhile back new bushings and striker they shut like a benz.but for some reason people when getting in my truck still want to slam the doors I guess they think since its old its hard to shut. but strikers dont ware out that fast you need to fix the alinment on your doors .

ureckme · 09-04-2005, 07:49 PM

If you cant get to the striker plate on the back side to keep it from falling off. Heres what you do. Loosen the striker, squirt black RTV in bewteen the piller and the striker plate. Then titen it back up till it drys, the RTV will holed the plate and you can remove the striker and repair or replace it. Matt

greenhorn male · 09-05-2005, 04:07 AM

Wow, great suggestions! I may try that. But for now, I need to figure out why my computer keeps freezing. Thanks Matt.

09-01-2005, 01:41 AM	#1
greenhorn male Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bay Area, Northern California Posts: 1,344	Door striker??? The thing that mounts on the pillar that the door latch strikes. It has a plastic sleeve that doesn't last long and when this happens, you have to slam the door. The last few times I had to buy the whole post assembly. Could the sleeve be purchased separately in larger packages. Is there anything that lasts longer? It's for a 73 burb and I need at least two more now. __________________ 03 Tahoe 72 GMC Super Custom 2500 Custom Camper, my reliable workhorse. Dual gauged tanks, dual battery trays.

09-01-2005, 01:57 AM	#6
greenhorn male Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bay Area, Northern California Posts: 1,344	I'll be checking back in tomorrow. Thanks for the info. __________________ 03 Tahoe 72 GMC Super Custom 2500 Custom Camper, my reliable workhorse. Dual gauged tanks, dual battery trays.

09-01-2005, 04:09 AM	#9
bigarmzz Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Elkins, West Virginia Posts: 2,542	you can buy these at any parts stores...ie, napa, auto zone, advance auto.etc... buy a pack of them, take one of them to the local hardware store, and buy the same diameter in "copper"...buy a foot or two of the correct diameter, and cut to fit... .....copper is soft, but i've found will last alot longer than pcv plastic __________________ 1987 350 TBI lowered 5/7

09-01-2005, 09:43 AM	#10
bodydropped Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: beaumont,tx Posts: 757	u can use eletical tape that what we used alot of times but when i redid my truck i bough tnew ones and them things are 24 buck new from gm __________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ropped/sig.jpg

09-01-2005, 07:49 PM	#11
greenhorn male Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bay Area, Northern California Posts: 1,344	Thanks for the responses. Copper sounds good, but, would it give you more of a metal to metal rattle on bumps? I'm going to have to start experimenting with different materials of the same size, as the ones bought at the auto parts stores don't seem to last. PVC sounds kinda large event he 1/2" size. How about the black drip system piping that comes in different sizes. Those seem to hold even when laid above ground exposed to the elelments? __________________ 03 Tahoe 72 GMC Super Custom 2500 Custom Camper, my reliable workhorse. Dual gauged tanks, dual battery trays.

09-01-2005, 01:49 AM	#2
iceman7329 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 453	Ill have you a two dollar fix for this in the morning that you can buy at any hard ware store. got to go look at mine for size and what it is called.

09-01-2005, 01:50 AM	#3
Muddytazz JMR Offroad Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 85	You can get them at Napa

09-01-2005, 01:53 AM	#4
iceman7329 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 453	Mine last longer. And are cheaper. Just so you know. Not trying to be rude or anything.

09-01-2005, 01:58 AM	#7
iceman7329 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 453	If I remember right its pvc pipe.

09-01-2005, 11:26 PM	#12
ureckme ureckmefixit2@cox.net Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Mesa AZ. (Phoenix) Posts: 1,284	I'm a body man, just so you guys dont think Im full of it. I fixed both of mine about a year ago. When I saw this post I went down and looked at my door strikers and they both look perfect. So heres a kwik fix and every one has this lay'n around. Use a 1 inch piece of black 5/8 heater hose. Take the big washer off the striker put on the piece of hose, then put back together. It works better then a new one it wont let the door beat on the striker and the door fits better. Matt __________________ That's U RECK ME FIX it 2 74 Chevy Short Bed 355ci Sportsman II 64cc Angle Plug Crower Custom Grind .462in .486ex Dyno Test 422hp @ 5600 And it's got a Holley 3.73 Gears 12 Bolt 3.73 w/Posi 700R4 Going In I'm a Body Man So There! That's why it's not painted

09-02-2005, 12:32 AM	#14
greenhorn male Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bay Area, Northern California Posts: 1,344	I'll try all the suggestions and see how they work. I have 4 doors on this burb and at least two of them are gone and one is worn. I'll try to experiment with different sleeves of similar size on different doors. Bigarmzz...I was concerned about the the door latch metal against another metal, but copper is soft enough it probably would be ok. I'm just tired of searching for the striker kits at parts stores and have to replace them after a few months. Matt...I was getting ready to throw away my excess heater hose. I guess I'll be keeping it handy. __________________ 03 Tahoe 72 GMC Super Custom 2500 Custom Camper, my reliable workhorse. Dual gauged tanks, dual battery trays.

09-03-2005, 03:47 PM	#15
greenhorn male Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bay Area, Northern California Posts: 1,344	I ended up with 4 strikers with no sleeves after the last one broke yesterday. This morning I started to remove the strikers starting from the rear after cutting up my excess heater hose in 1" sections and lo and behold, I couldn't gain access to the panel behind the pillar because the previous owner carpetted the side panels using some hefty contact cement or glue. I wasn't in the mood to start ripping carpet off so I went to the quick fix "Bodydropped" suggested and wrapped several layers of electrical tape around them. The front door pillars has speakers screwed on to them, so I taped those as well. The doors close and feel remarkably well. I have the heater hose in my glovebox ready in case the tape wears fast. The rears should last sometime because it's hardly ever used. I'll swap out the front sleeves when I start working on the stereo system. Is there any chance of the paint behind the carpet being saved while removing the adhesive. I'd like to remove the carpet if it doesn't tear up the interior paint. The previous owner meticulously cut and fitted the carpet around the 4 door panels, and on both rear side panels and around the rear side windows. Unless there is a way to remove the carpet without ripping the paint off and cleaning the adhesive off, I think I'll leave it as is for now. I know one thing, it's pretty quite in the burb while driving. __________________ 03 Tahoe 72 GMC Super Custom 2500 Custom Camper, my reliable workhorse. Dual gauged tanks, dual battery trays.

09-04-2005, 10:57 AM	#17
MylilBowTie Right turn Clyde Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 2,911	Could be wrong but isn't that fixing the symptoms of the bigger problem hinge pins and bushings / or worn hinges themselves? __________________ 1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI

09-04-2005, 06:54 PM	#18
short chevy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 20	Could be wrong but isn't that fixing the symptoms of the bigger problem hinge pins and bushings / or worn hinges themselves?[QUOTE] __________________ Im with you on that . redid mine awhile back new bushings and striker they shut like a benz.but for some reason people when getting in my truck still want to slam the doors I guess they think since its old its hard to shut. but strikers dont ware out that fast you need to fix the alinment on your doors .

09-04-2005, 07:49 PM	#19
ureckme ureckmefixit2@cox.net Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Mesa AZ. (Phoenix) Posts: 1,284	If you cant get to the striker plate on the back side to keep it from falling off. Heres what you do. Loosen the striker, squirt black RTV in bewteen the piller and the striker plate. Then titen it back up till it drys, the RTV will holed the plate and you can remove the striker and repair or replace it. Matt __________________ That's U RECK ME FIX it 2 74 Chevy Short Bed 355ci Sportsman II 64cc Angle Plug Crower Custom Grind .462in .486ex Dyno Test 422hp @ 5600 And it's got a Holley 3.73 Gears 12 Bolt 3.73 w/Posi 700R4 Going In I'm a Body Man So There! That's why it's not painted Last edited by ureckme; 09-04-2005 at 07:50 PM. Reason: Drive'n the wrong way, Fast



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09-05-2005, 04:07 AM	#20
greenhorn male Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bay Area, Northern California Posts: 1,344	Wow, great suggestions! I may try that. But for now, I need to figure out why my computer keeps freezing. Thanks Matt. __________________ 03 Tahoe 72 GMC Super Custom 2500 Custom Camper, my reliable workhorse. Dual gauged tanks, dual battery trays.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.