Post '70 D44 question

[rmurray25]

I have learned a lot on this forum about the D44's and other diffs. You guys are great. However, I still have a few questions. I have a pre '70 Dana 44 front diff with the closed knuckle setup. I am wondering how to change the Ball joints or if it even has ball joints. If it is not too dificult I will just do that. If it is too difficult and/or expensive i will just change the axle. any input from someone experienced here would be greatly apreciated.

[LONGHAIR]

They are not "ball joints" but they function as the same thing. Actually what those housings have are a bearing and race set-up like a wheel bearing. They can be replaced but generally wear less then the ball type. It is a bit more involved because you have the felt seals to deal with too, but you don't have to fight with the tapered fit of the ball-joints. The only down-side of the closed knuckle is that you cannot inspect the axle joints with out taking it apart..........but they do last longer because they are lubricated better.

[rmurray25]

So the only question I think I have left then is where can I order these parts and what are they called exactly so I know what to ask for? Also does anyone have an illustration or details of how to replace these bearings?

[rmurray25]

From all I can gather from what i have found either on this forum or on other sites the closed knuckle type D44's are kingpin knuckles instead of ball joint type knuckles. I am also gathering that the only disadvantage is not being able to see/inspect your u-joints in the axle but that the kingpin closed knuckle style are slightly prefferable for off-road applications especialy in Jeeps. If anyone can offer more info on this or correct my assumptions please do so. I am very knew to diffs and am all ears.

[JIMs70GMC]

I believe the turning radius is not as sharp as an open knuckle axle. The closed knuckle design is still used in medium and heavy duty truck applications (C-40 and bigger). Another down side would be any leak and your loosing your diff oil.

[LONGHAIR]

Kingpins are for 2wheel drive axles. Like the old straight axle or the twin I-beam Ford set-up. It is a single solid pin going from top to bottom in the spindle, through the axle.
The closed-knuckle 4x4 housing has a small roller bearing (like an outer wheel bearing) that is held in and centered by a cap. There are 2 per side (upper and lower)........If I remember correctly, the ligher duty Jeep axles had a bronze bushing as the upper? It had the same taper as the roller bearing and fit on the cap the same way. They are adjusted by shims under the cap.

[1969 GMC]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Kingpins are for 2wheel drive axles. Like the old straight axle or the twin I-beam Ford set-up. It is a single solid pin going from top to bottom in the spindle, through the axle.
The closed-knuckle 4x4 housing has a small roller bearing (like an outer wheel bearing) that is held in and centered by a cap. There are 2 per side (upper and lower)........If I remember correctly, the ligher duty Jeep axles had a bronze bushing as the upper? It had the same taper as the roller bearing and fit on the cap the same way. They are adjusted by shims under the cap.

Kingpins are used in 4x4's also. Depends on what axle, though. The older closed knuckle D44's are still referred to as kingpins, even though they are the little cap you refer to. Dana 60 front axles from 1 ton 4x4's have kingpins, as well. They do not go all the way through the axle, but there are upper and lower individual pins. They have a plastic bushing in the upper and roller bearing in the lower.

Closed knuckle axles are not really preferred by anyone involved in offroading.
Disc brakes are the biggest advantage, and going to a later model open knuckled disc braked axle is a fairly easy mod.

[rmurray25]

You guys are great. I have learned more about my truck from these forums than from all other sources combined. I do have another question though... On a cost benifit analisys given that I have found a newer 75-78 chev D44 with disc brakes for $200 at a junk yard; would it be better to A. Replace the bad kingpins in my closed knuckle D44 or B. pick up the newer open knuckle D44.

Things to consider are these.
I would like to life this truck about 6" and put 35-38" tires on it.
Obviously my original D44 has drum brakes and the new one has disc.
I have never tested it but according the the guy I bought my motor from it was putting out 420 horse the the flywheel and I want something that will handles it.
My gear ratio (for now) is 3.73.

Thanks again guys

You guys ROCK!

[earl87gta]

depending on how hard you wheel with 420 HP and 38in tires you may end up breaking a lot of d44 axles. I built a d44 to the max and I still broke axles with my 38s on the truck. It may not be a big problem with the 3.73 gears but when you decide to go to 4:10 or 4:56 it may become an issue.

[JIMs70GMC]

What Earl said. The closed knuckle dana44 has a smaller u-joint than the 297x u-joint in the newer axle. Also stopping 38" tires w/ drums would be a pain. Also going to the newer axle you could "upgrade" your steering to crossover and eliminate any bump steer.

[rmurray25]

Thank you guys for all your help. I think it will go with a newer front end for two reasons. 1. Disc brakes 2. I can't find the king pins for the older one anywhere.

[Americanrider]

Have you torn apart your old axle yet? I parted out my 67's closed knuckle D44 8-lug last month and maybe I can get some pics posted up tomorrow. The knuckle housing is supposed to be filled with 140wt lube. Slow leaks in the felt seals and mud took it's toll on mine and when I parted it one of the little cone bearnings that Longhair was talking about fell apart when I opened it up. The other side was in good shape. I'm also doing a disc axle up grade. Forgot to ask, is yours a half ton? I also have a closed knuckle D44 6 lug that was given to me, I never torn into it but it may have some needed good parts.

[rmurray25]

Yes it is a half ton americanrinder. No I have not torn out the front end yet. I think I will just part mine out too and buy the newer one. I am waiting until I have the money to go buy the other one. See I am custom restoring my 69 and I am about $3,500 into it in the last month and a half so money is getting tight. However I am close to having all that I need. I just need my front diff, a passanger fender, and motor mount bolts. I already have bought the paint which is a dark toreador red and have sanded most of the truck, minus the box which I have not yet picked up, down to bare metal. I also picked up a 350 out of a 76 chev that is the 010 block number and a four bolt main. I was rebuilt 27,000 miles ago and has the 202 camel back heads on it. It also has a mild cam. I also picked up a new Edlebrock 600 carb, a perfomer series intake and a new 2 1/4" dual exhaust with packs. Plus many many little thing like mirrors, tail light lenses, defroster hoses, ect. I will have to post some pictures when I am done. I am hoping by mid october. Here is a pic of some of the progress and the new paint color on the fender.

[Americanrider]

I feel your pain bro.... money is tight when it goes down your carb faster than it comes in your wallet.

Anyway... here are the pics of what you might find when you open it up. The closed end of the knuckle has two bearing races (YELLOW Outline) They ride on the cone-shaped bearings that sit on the upper and lower Kingpins? Ok , whatever you decide to call them. When I pulled mine open the lower set of bearings on the drivers side fell apart (RED Outline). The others are in fair/good shape, if you really want the other 3 cone bearings I'll give them to you free if you pay shipping. It not like they are doing me any good.

I have a closed knuckle 6 lug Dana 44 front w/3.73s in my back yard. Condition unknown, missing lock hubs, price $50. I have no use for it either but no time to part it out right now. I have a good set of D-44 closed knuckle axle shafts also for sale, $20. You might find that your axle is good, you might not. Between the cost of felt seals and whatever parts you need form my stash it will be cheaper to re-build what you have unless it's total toast inside, then you could save up for the disk front swap next spring.

What is your gear ratio?

[rmurray25]

Thanks Americanrider. I appreciate the help, pics and parts. Let me try to tear mine down this weekend and see what all it needs and if it is not total trash I will PM you and let you know what parts I would like to buy.

[Americanrider]

Be sure to count the shims and note their location, ie: 4 on top drivers side. It's important if you re-install and want correct adjustment. Where in Idaho are you? I have family living near Payette & Eagle.

[rmurray25]

Ok I will do that. I had actually read something about that (probably one of your posts). I think Payette is in northern Idaho Right? I am in Pocatello in south east idaho.

[rmurray25]

American,

I actually was not able to get to that front end this weekend but I did find and matching front and rear axle for $250.00 so i think I am going to take that and junk the old one. Thanks for all your help though.

[Americanrider]

Disk fronts I hope?

[rmurray25]

Yes they are... Of course