Question for the front end Gurus

[GlennBrittain]

I need to make a decision on what direction to take with my front end build, on a 69 SWB C10. I want to lower the front 2 ½ and the back 4, with disc up front and drums on the rear. I have a 73 donor for a front saddle (if that is the correct term) and brake parts to get the disc up front, but will still have to buy the drop spindles. I could use the Early Classics kit to convert my stock front end to disc with the drop. Are there any advantages with the later model front end over stock 69? Or is changing the front saddle over unnecessary.

[Fred T]

Not that much of a difference. Either way I would plan on replacing a lot of parts. Ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm shafts, pitman & idler arms. The parts you will need are called drop spindles, the entire assembly is the crossmember assembly. The big advantage to the crosmember swap is that you can rebuild the assembly on the bench, then swap it out in one weekend.

[jlmtrout]

I bought complete front suspension, discs, calipers, upper and lower control arms, spindles, inner and outer tie rod ends and tie rods, idler arm, drag link and rear end at Super Chevy Show swap meet for $125. Best part was going to 5 bolt wheels. Of course I had to have a new master cylinder (for power disc brakes), and a proportioning valve, and also a brake booster and longer brake push rod (for power brakes). It's a pretty straight forward swap, no need to replace the saddle unless you want to. You can borrow a tool to install and remove ball joints at most auto parts chains. If you replace the ball joints, they're relatively cheap,(about $20 each) and will give you a much better ride and improved handling. You'll also need some new hard brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve and from the valve to the coupler/"t" at the rear of the saddle on the driver side, along with new rubber brake hoses for the calipers. Be sure to get a power booster to match the master cylinder (can't use a delco master cylinder with a bendix booster). Good luck and keep on truckin'..........Jerry

[68C15]

IMO keep the 69 arms & springs. they give a better ride with the metal bushings instead of the rubber ones. swap out for the 73 ball joints, spindles, all steering linkage.

[Tx Firefighter]

You're going to be buying drop spindles anyway, so buy a pair for your 69 model. That way, you can reuse your ball joints and tie rod ends without any hassle. Then, take the brake rotors, calipers, bearings and such from the donor and put them onto your new drop spindles.

Cheapest and easiest way in my opinion.

[GlennBrittain]

Thanks to all for the info. I apoligize for the late reply, but could not be helped. I have a couple of construction projects going on here with materials scattered around my place. I spent two full days putting it, pot plants and other various things away in preperation for the storm. I got power back a 5 pm today, we are very fortunate to get it back so soon. We also did not sufer damage and only lost one tree. We have refugees here from the Bridge City area, they drove back today to survey thier damage and retured here. They have major damage at a home that was for sale and lost thier pump house and well where they were living, thier sons house was split by a tree. They will be living in thier RV,s on my property for some time now.

[4tiresngas]

Glenn, I have a 69 SWB. I went with ECE 2.5" drop spindles. I bought all new balljoints, tie-rod ends. pitman arm, idler arm from a AutoZone pretty reasonably. The ECE spindles are machined to accept the balljoints for whatever year truck you tell them. That saves having to find a new center link or worrying abount adapter tie-rod end sleeves. I bought all new calipers, rotors and bearings for a 73 from Autozone. Again, I was surprised how affordable they were. That's just my .02 for what it's worth.

[GlennBrittain]

What year ECE 2.5" drop spindles did you install.