Getting red of Gas Smell - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

pebbleboy · 10-04-2005, 05:46 PM

This might have been discussed before but I have no luck with the search button.

Why I am I getting a BAD gass smell after I fuel up? I don't have any leaks in the cab I can find but the smell is enought to make the drive alot more "fun."
I filled up on my way home from work yesterday. The smell is so strong my boss noticed it on me from a 10 -15 min drive in this morning. I don't mine a little bit of a scent but I'm almost afraid to drive past people smoking.
Is there any way to cut the smell down? New feul cap? What should I check?
Thanks for the help.

farside847 · 10-04-2005, 06:00 PM

Could be a leak at the sender unit or the fill pipe. If it only happes when you fill her up I would bet on the fill pipe...

chevyboy55 · 10-04-2005, 07:04 PM

My son had that problem after he filled up. It would go away after some gas got used up.Then he noticed when making a right turn after filling up, gas sloshed out the cap. New cap smell gone. Blazer tank & sidemarker fill fixed it even better.

70chevyfreak · 10-04-2005, 09:18 PM

I had the same problem. Get a new cap and make sure it fits right,I went through three caps, one was from Chevy Duty before I got the right one and it was from a discount auto parts store.

chevyfarmer · 10-04-2005, 09:33 PM

I agree with the new gas cap as well. To fix it on one of my old trucks I cut out a new cork gasket out of a piece that I had laying around. I left the old gasket on there and just added the new one on top of it. It might be worth a try in you situation, and it might be a cheap fix.

Tx Firefighter · 10-04-2005, 09:50 PM

Stant makes a good replacement cap available at most any parts store for about 7 bucks. That fixes most stinky gas smells.

76bonanza · 10-04-2005, 10:08 PM

Mine is from the sending unit only when full, right after you fuel up check it after I drive 10 miles it stops. But that first 10 miles it weeps out of the sending unit. Got new oring coming. Also dont fill up all the way it helps a lot.

76bonanza · 10-04-2005, 10:16 PM

also on trucks with out vapor lines 68-69 I think they are designed to vent vapor out of cap if you eliminate it it has no place to vent.

Bill72BB · 10-04-2005, 10:20 PM

Best way to get ride of that pesty gas smell is light a match .

Check the 2 small rubber hose's at the sending unit , the gasket under the sending unit and the cap .

Robert1970C20rstbukt · 10-04-2005, 10:24 PM

Carquest carrys the good chrome/stainless locking caps for about $15 for 67-71 trucks. The ones for 72's are about three dollars more. I bought one and it's a lot better than the ones autozone sells!

llegos · 10-05-2005, 12:44 AM

the neck part of my tank was messed up, so i had to get a whole new one

Jakes-66-K10 · 10-05-2005, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill72BB

Best way to get ride of that pesty gas smell is light a match .

Hey I tried this, is it normal to be missing eyebrows afterwards? J/k

**truckster** · 10-05-2005, 03:35 PM

You still might have a leak around the sending unit, even if you can't see it. It doesn't take much for the vapor to get through. I replaced my cap and vent lines and checked for pin holes in my 72's tank. I finally replaced the )-ring, even though I couldn't see gas, and the smell disappeared.

76bonanza · 10-05-2005, 04:04 PM

Hey truckster getting ready to do the oring thing this weekend is it as easy as it seems? Any tips or tricks?

pebbleboy · 10-05-2005, 06:31 PM

Thanks for the help. I think I'll pick up a new cap and see if that helps.

walker · 10-05-2005, 09:33 PM

Hey bonanza, I just pulled my sending unit out to check that sock, and yes it was pretty easy to do.

76bonanza · 10-06-2005, 11:54 AM

Hey walker do you think I can pull that o-ring over the back with out removing the sender from the tank all the way. My sender is brand new so dont need to check the sock.

Alan Potter · 10-06-2005, 02:45 PM

I ran into another possibilty the other day...the pin where the power wire hooks up on the sender can come loose and leak a very small amount of fuel. All I did to fix the problem was to remove the wire and GENTLY twist the portion behind it until it was good and snug. There is an o-ring or seal of some type in there that can leak if not tight. Don't over tighten it or you'll have more problems

**truckster** · 10-06-2005, 03:10 PM

76bonanza, it's a pretty easy fix. I took the tank out to inspect and clean it, but if you have room behind the seat, you could probably change it in the truck. There's a round lock with three tabs on the top of the sending unit. Turn it counterclockwise to remove it- it might take a little tapping, but remember not to use anything that will generate a spark. A brass drift will work, or even a piece of hardwood. Once you have it off, pull out the sending unit and remove the sock (you don't need it, and I figured out that the shredding sock was actually what kept fouling my filter). Make sure the area's clean and put the new O-ring on. You can use a light coating of grease or vaseline to lube one side of it to make reassembly easier. Put the locking ring back on, and you're back in business. I wouldn't recommend trying to do it without removing the sending unit, because you'd probably be more likely to cause damage trying to thread the O-ring over the sending unit with it in the tank than you would by removing it completely.

walker · 10-06-2005, 07:19 PM

Hey 76bonanza, I don't know if it would fit over there without removing the sending unit all the way. Since you have to remove the fuel line and the sending unit wire anyway it is only a matter of lifting the unit out, which is pretty easy. If you had difficulty in the past, make sure you do it with a near empty tank, so the float is straight down. It seems to me it would be more difficult with gas in the tank, keeping that float rod out to the side.

76bonanza · 10-08-2005, 02:51 PM

quick question the little tab on the oring does it go in a special place?

72wascal · 10-08-2005, 05:12 PM

Might check for leaks in the fill neck down to the tank. The vent tubes on my 72 ran up into the top of the cab and smelled constantly. I ended up relocating the tank to the back when I backhalfed the truck. I was fearful of blowing myself up (smoker). Check for leaks and replace all gaskets worn or not and you should some diminishing returns, or try a stronger cologne or after shave.

10-04-2005, 05:46 PM	#1
pebbleboy Son Of Gravel Man Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Cleveland OH Posts: 638	Getting red of Gas Smell This might have been discussed before but I have no luck with the search button. Why I am I getting a BAD gass smell after I fuel up? I don't have any leaks in the cab I can find but the smell is enought to make the drive alot more "fun." I filled up on my way home from work yesterday. The smell is so strong my boss noticed it on me from a 10 -15 min drive in this morning. I don't mine a little bit of a scent but I'm almost afraid to drive past people smoking. Is there any way to cut the smell down? New feul cap? What should I check? Thanks for the help.

10-04-2005, 06:00 PM	#2
farside847 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 995	Could be a leak at the sender unit or the fill pipe. If it only happes when you fill her up I would bet on the fill pipe... __________________ 1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree

10-04-2005, 09:33 PM	#5
chevyfarmer Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Owosso, Mi Posts: 242	I agree with the new gas cap as well. To fix it on one of my old trucks I cut out a new cork gasket out of a piece that I had laying around. I left the old gasket on there and just added the new one on top of it. It might be worth a try in you situation, and it might be a cheap fix. __________________ 67 short wide 355ci 3 on tree 69 short wide 250ci 3 on tree 68 long wide 283 3 on tree 72 2wd Blazer project 454 5 speed

10-04-2005, 09:50 PM	#6
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Stant makes a good replacement cap available at most any parts store for about 7 bucks. That fixes most stinky gas smells. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

10-04-2005, 10:08 PM	#7
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	Mine is from the sending unit only when full, right after you fuel up check it after I drive 10 miles it stops. But that first 10 miles it weeps out of the sending unit. Got new oring coming. Also dont fill up all the way it helps a lot. __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

10-04-2005, 07:04 PM	#3
chevyboy55 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Kelso,Wa Posts: 3,637	My son had that problem after he filled up. It would go away after some gas got used up.Then he noticed when making a right turn after filling up, gas sloshed out the cap. New cap smell gone. Blazer tank & sidemarker fill fixed it even better.

10-04-2005, 09:18 PM	#4
70chevyfreak Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Holt, Missouri. Near KC Posts: 64	I had the same problem. Get a new cap and make sure it fits right,I went through three caps, one was from Chevy Duty before I got the right one and it was from a discount auto parts store.

10-04-2005, 10:16 PM	#8
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	also on trucks with out vapor lines 68-69 I think they are designed to vent vapor out of cap if you eliminate it it has no place to vent. __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

10-04-2005, 10:20 PM	#9
Bill72BB Thats the Hillbilly way Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Torrance,Ca Posts: 5,980	Best way to get ride of that pesty gas smell is light a match . Check the 2 small rubber hose's at the sending unit , the gasket under the sending unit and the cap . __________________ BILL Torrance Calif 90504 Member DUF Club Member Old Farts Club 72 3/4ton Custom Camper BB402/400 trans Dynomax Cerama-coat headers , Hei distributor ,Edelbrock 1411 air,ps,pb,leafsprings ,98 chevy 60/40 seat,S10 shoulder belts tilt,3.54 Dana 60 rear. 16" Eagle wheels with LT265/75 16 tires,Gaylord Lid,H4 headlights with 100W relay conversion. " If I knew I was going to live this long I would have taken better care of myself " Marriage changes passion...suddenly you're in bed with a relative. A GUY'S PRAYER.... Lord, I pray for a nympho with huge boobs who owns a liquor store and likes to fish and hunt and has a Harley .Amen ,

10-04-2005, 10:24 PM	#10
Robert1970C20rstbukt Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Beeville, Texas Posts: 1,943	Carquest carrys the good chrome/stainless locking caps for about $15 for 67-71 trucks. The ones for 72's are about three dollars more. I bought one and it's a lot better than the ones autozone sells! __________________ RJD 1984 Chevrolet C30 welding truck 454/SM465 1977 GMC C15 pickup 350/TH350 1970 Chevrolet C20 pickup 350/TH400 1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban 454/TH350 1969 GMC 8500 478M V6/5 spd winch truck

10-05-2005, 12:44 AM	#11
llegos Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: pleasanton, CA Posts: 570	the neck part of my tank was messed up, so i had to get a whole new one __________________ -Steve

10-05-2005, 03:35 PM	#13
truckster Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 7,875	You still might have a leak around the sending unit, even if you can't see it. It doesn't take much for the vapor to get through. I replaced my cap and vent lines and checked for pin holes in my 72's tank. I finally replaced the )-ring, even though I couldn't see gas, and the smell disappeared. __________________ I have sworn upon the altar of God, eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man. - Thomas Jefferson

10-05-2005, 04:04 PM	#14
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	Hey truckster getting ready to do the oring thing this weekend is it as easy as it seems? Any tips or tricks? __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

10-05-2005, 06:31 PM	#15
pebbleboy Son Of Gravel Man Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Cleveland OH Posts: 638	Thanks for the help. I think I'll pick up a new cap and see if that helps.

10-05-2005, 09:33 PM	#16
walker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles Posts: 698	Hey bonanza, I just pulled my sending unit out to check that sock, and yes it was pretty easy to do. __________________ Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold



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10-06-2005, 11:54 AM	#17
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	Hey walker do you think I can pull that o-ring over the back with out removing the sender from the tank all the way. My sender is brand new so dont need to check the sock. __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

10-06-2005, 02:45 PM	#18
Alan Potter Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Northwest Ohio Posts: 162	I ran into another possibilty the other day...the pin where the power wire hooks up on the sender can come loose and leak a very small amount of fuel. All I did to fix the problem was to remove the wire and GENTLY twist the portion behind it until it was good and snug. There is an o-ring or seal of some type in there that can leak if not tight. Don't over tighten it or you'll have more problems __________________ '12 Silverado Crew Cab 4x4 '05 Silverado SWB '67 Chevrolet CST 2wd '49 Willys Jeepster

10-06-2005, 03:10 PM	#19
truckster Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 7,875	76bonanza, it's a pretty easy fix. I took the tank out to inspect and clean it, but if you have room behind the seat, you could probably change it in the truck. There's a round lock with three tabs on the top of the sending unit. Turn it counterclockwise to remove it- it might take a little tapping, but remember not to use anything that will generate a spark. A brass drift will work, or even a piece of hardwood. Once you have it off, pull out the sending unit and remove the sock (you don't need it, and I figured out that the shredding sock was actually what kept fouling my filter). Make sure the area's clean and put the new O-ring on. You can use a light coating of grease or vaseline to lube one side of it to make reassembly easier. Put the locking ring back on, and you're back in business. I wouldn't recommend trying to do it without removing the sending unit, because you'd probably be more likely to cause damage trying to thread the O-ring over the sending unit with it in the tank than you would by removing it completely. __________________ I have sworn upon the altar of God, eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man. - Thomas Jefferson

10-06-2005, 07:19 PM	#20
walker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles Posts: 698	Hey 76bonanza, I don't know if it would fit over there without removing the sending unit all the way. Since you have to remove the fuel line and the sending unit wire anyway it is only a matter of lifting the unit out, which is pretty easy. If you had difficulty in the past, make sure you do it with a near empty tank, so the float is straight down. It seems to me it would be more difficult with gas in the tank, keeping that float rod out to the side. __________________ Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold

10-08-2005, 02:51 PM	#21
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	quick question the little tab on the oring does it go in a special place? __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

10-08-2005, 05:12 PM	#22
72wascal Hawaiian Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Maui, Hawaii Posts: 28	Might check for leaks in the fill neck down to the tank. The vent tubes on my 72 ran up into the top of the cab and smelled constantly. I ended up relocating the tank to the back when I backhalfed the truck. I was fearful of blowing myself up (smoker). Check for leaks and replace all gaskets worn or not and you should some diminishing returns, or try a stronger cologne or after shave.

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