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Old 09-23-2005, 10:56 AM   #1
higherlevel
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C notch

Well im finally to cutting the frame for the c notch and I cant quite make up my mind on which power tool to use? I am anxious please help.
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Old 09-23-2005, 11:11 AM   #2
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When i lowered my Tahoe i C notch the frame and i used a combo of a sawsall and a high speed air cut off disc. and a drill to drill the corners.
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Old 09-23-2005, 11:12 AM   #3
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I used a sawzall,and cleaned it up with an angle grinder. If you use C-notches that wrap the frame (over the top) you need to trim the channel under the bed. Scribe where you are going to cut, and drill a few holes along the line. Also, support the frame (in front and behind the cut) when making the cut. Be sure frame is supported level. Do one side at a time for added support. When you layout the location, measure from center of notch (centerline @ axle). Take your time, wear safety glasses and gloves. Good luck.
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Old 09-23-2005, 11:40 AM   #4
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sawzall, cut off wheel and 4.5" grinder for clean up.
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Old 09-23-2005, 02:59 PM   #5
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that is the direction i planned to go but was unsure if this was the best thanx
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Old 09-23-2005, 03:07 PM   #6
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Do you have any pics of it as is?? Would love to see it.

BTW
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Old 09-23-2005, 05:00 PM   #7
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A plasma cutter works nice if you have one. If not, mark the corners and drill a 3/8" hole. Cut from the bottom of ther frame up to the hole then cut across from one hole to the next. The hole creates a radious at the stress point so your frame won't crack. If you make your cuts meet each other they can create a stress point that might eventually crack...

BTW- Welcome to the forum. You have any pics of your project?
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Old 09-24-2005, 01:43 PM   #8
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Thats it I'm going to Best Buy to get a digi.
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:52 AM   #9
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Like already said, it is extremely important to drill holes at the corners. And also to support the frame both in front and behind where you are going to cut. The last thing you need is to have a perfectly cut notch and then a bent frame afterward. Sawzall will probably be your best tool to use if you don't have a plasma cutter.
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:49 PM   #10
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I have read many threads about C-notching and this one has explained it better than any of the others. Pictures would be great but now I feel confident about doing it myself. Things to remember:
* sharp 3/8" drill bit

What C-notch are you using? Is the C-notch a bolt-on or weld-on? Thanks.
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatocity
I have read many threads about C-notching and this one has explained it better than any of the others. Pictures would be great but now I feel confident about doing it myself. Things to remember:
* sharp 3/8" drill bit

What C-notch are you using? Is the C-notch a bolt-on or weld-on? Thanks.
I wanna notch my frame also. Why dont I come see how you do it then I can do mine!
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Old 09-29-2005, 12:55 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by 70short/step
I wanna notch my frame also. Why dont I come see how you do it then I can do mine!
If you come you will have to help. I plan on removing/replacing the bed and will complete the C-notch and Flip while the bed is off. I will pm you my information. Not sure waht weekend I plan on doing the C-notch but I will let you know. Tim
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Old 10-08-2005, 12:32 AM   #13
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use a cobalt bit and a good penetrating oil for drilling or else your bit wont survive very long
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Old 10-08-2005, 02:10 AM   #14
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ok, so i have been told many different things, and i need this to be set straigt.

does a C-notch weaken your frame? if so, would it still be able to handle a load?
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Old 10-08-2005, 10:47 AM   #15
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Can't wait for the pictures.
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Old 10-08-2005, 01:05 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by llegos
ok, so i have been told many different things, and i need this to be set straigt.

does a C-notch weaken your frame? if so, would it still be able to handle a load?
Anytime you cut into the original frame, there's a risk you will weaken it. The 1/4" thick bolt on c-sections bolt from the sides & bottom so they encapsulate the original frame pretty well. Use only quality grade 8 hardware & you won't have any problems doing normal stuff.

If you plan on working the truck a little harder you can weld the 'bolt-in' c-notch for added safety, or, even stronger would be to weld & then box the back side of the frame-rail while welding in the c-notch.

I did the bolt-on c-notch method but when I started towing my 18ft car hauler I went ahead & welded it in. I haven't had any issues w/mine & I tend to use my truck as a truck.
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Old 10-08-2005, 01:11 PM   #17
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ok, well my truck wont be really used as a truck, and it should be fine. of course i only plan to notch it if i have problems with axle to frame contact
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Old 10-08-2005, 09:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehightoyz
use a cobalt bit and a good penetrating oil for drilling or else your bit wont survive very long

Good advice. You should also try to drill slowly with as much pressure as you can apply without shaking. It may also help if you start with a smaller bit, like 1/8", to make a pilot hole. It will help keep the 3/8" bit from walking while you're trying to drill.
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Old 10-09-2005, 01:54 PM   #19
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Does anybody make a larger notch for our trucks?? Like an already made, weld in 8"-10" notch??
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Old 10-09-2005, 02:37 PM   #20
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Do you have to relocate fuel/brake line when you install CPP C-notch?

R
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Old 10-09-2005, 05:51 PM   #21
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Do you have to relocate fuel/brake line when you install CPP C-notch?

R
I didn't on my swb truck. A blazer/burb could possibly be different.
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Old 10-09-2005, 06:10 PM   #22
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I haven't looked at it yet, but I know they both run down the passenger side. It definitely needs the c-notch, since the rear won't get as low as the front.

Rob
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