AC Compressor Question, - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

phlegm · 10-10-2005, 01:43 PM

My clutch is out on my AC Compressor. A buddy has an old compressor that is shot, but has a good clutch on it and is willing to give it to me. Trouble is we cannot figure how to get the clutch off? Any tips?

At this point I am thinking replace the entire unit with a 100.00 Autozone reman.

O yea, this weekend my points went bad, guess how I found out?? Nothing like point replacement on the interstate in the rain, Yee Haw... and the oil leak on Valve covers was fixed, again and right this time... I think.

**john** · 10-10-2005, 02:05 PM

You will be better off with the reman comp. It takes special tools to remove and install parts on front of comp. John

chickenwing · 10-10-2005, 02:08 PM

Needs a special tool. Looks kinda like this. http://www.tooldesk.com/products/pro...l.aspx+id+1762

Can't remember where I bought mine. Think Napa.

Edit: I went ahead and bought the tool. It was cheaper than paying for a whole compressor and having it serviced.

phlegm · 10-10-2005, 02:13 PM

Very cool, thanks guys!! This board Rocks.

phlegm · 10-10-2005, 04:11 PM

Started surfing the removal tool and found it pretty cheap, there is an installation kit as well... Do I need special tools to install too?

phlegm · 10-10-2005, 10:11 PM

Bump, tool or compressor, that is the question.

Blue4x4 · 10-10-2005, 10:31 PM

If it were me...I'd buy the reman compressor. Just think of all the work that could be done and have the possiability of a bad compressor seal. I do heat and ac for a living and have all the tools to the job that most people aren't able to.

phlegm · 10-10-2005, 10:36 PM

Blue, you are my hero, not just for the advice. I used to ski competitively in college, and once married found more time for trucks the the lake. That looks like an awesome rig in you avitar, send me the larger pic.

cory@deanhardt.com

Thanks for the advice, I will take it to heart, trick here is the clutch hub was free off a bad comprssor, so 25.00 for the tool or 100.00 for the compressor. If I need special tools to reassemble I will have to pass.

Fred T · 10-10-2005, 11:07 PM

Some parts stores will rent the tools, but not all have the ones for the a/c clutch. It would probably be worth a phone call.

**VetteVet** · 10-10-2005, 11:33 PM

For what it's worth I made a tool for this. I used an NPT pipe bushing that threads into the clutch I think it was a 1/2 in. pipe and I simply welded a 3/8ths by 16 nut onto the bushing. Then any 3/8ths x 16 bolt with enough threads to hit the compresser shaft will work. I removed the clutch nut with my impact driver and threaded it back onto the shaft far enough to protect the compressor shaft threads then just ran the 3/8ths bolt in till it hit the nut and broke the clutch seal. I'm typing this from memory so the sizes may not be quite right but I just wanted to give you an idea if you feel like trying it. I know that buying the tool from the store may be the proper way to do it but I like making my own stuff. Total cost was zero. If I had to buy a new clutch then I'd have bought the new compressor with the clutch already on it. Good luck.

crustysarge · 10-11-2005, 01:56 AM

I just changed mine a few months ago. I wound up buying a rebuilt compressor with clutch because the clutch was around $70 and the comp w/clutch was $99. I bought a puller/installer on Ebay (Snap On) for $50. I wanted one anyway so it gave me a reason to buy it.

My system still has R-12 and was OK so I did not want to bust it open. I used the puller to remove the clutch from the new comp, took about 5 minutes.

I then unbolted the comp on the truck to move it back some so I could access the clutch with the puller. I pulled the old one off and it was cooked. You need the tool to install the new one and need to set the air gap. Very simple and whole process took me about 90 minutes with beer breaks.

Installing the clutch, go slow and use a feeler guage to set the gap between the clutch and comp. I believe I got it to about 15 thousand or so and it was uniform all the way around. You want it as close as you can get it. If you go too far, just reverse and pull it back up a bit and then install again.

Trust me, it is not hard to do and I personally think it beats opening a perfectly good sealed system which means vacum and the whole thing. If you open, be sure to change the drier as well.

Plus, I have a rebuilt comp that I can sell for maybe $50 or so or just keep for a spare.

phlegm · 10-11-2005, 12:43 PM

So if I understand correctly, if I change the compressor the steps would be vent the system pull compressor, replace compressor. Pull Drier, replace Drier. Put coolent back in system. No need to vaccume if I replace the drier right?

**john** · 10-11-2005, 01:06 PM

when ever you open A/C system to the atmosphere you have to evacuate(pull vacuum) system. That removes all moisture from system before charging, along with new drier. Hope this helps. John

/<eystroke · 10-12-2005, 03:52 PM

Does anyone know if they made different belt sizes for AC compressors? My remanufactured compressor has a slightly larger V than the belt likes. It runs on the bottom of the V instead of the sides. The belt fits correctly on the crank shaft pully. Is it a different size or just wore out? I've looked for slightly larger belts but nobody at the parts store seems to know anything.

cdowns · 10-12-2005, 04:20 PM

keystroke/// try going to a lawnmower place for the bigger belt size

phlegm · 10-13-2005, 08:58 AM

Hey Sarge, in evaluating the options, i think I am going to make/find a tool and replace the clutch hub. A friend of mine will donate one off of a shot compressor to me. The removal Tool I Have been able to find on line, does it also assist in installation? what did you use and how to install the old hub?

How cool is truck advice from italy?

10-10-2005, 01:43 PM	#1
phlegm Still Green but learning Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 1,895	AC Compressor Question, My clutch is out on my AC Compressor. A buddy has an old compressor that is shot, but has a good clutch on it and is willing to give it to me. Trouble is we cannot figure how to get the clutch off? Any tips? At this point I am thinking replace the entire unit with a 100.00 Autozone reman. O yea, this weekend my points went bad, guess how I found out?? Nothing like point replacement on the interstate in the rain, Yee Haw... and the oil leak on Valve covers was fixed, again and right this time... I think. __________________ -- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was

10-10-2005, 02:05 PM	#2
john member #16 Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Yuba City Ca. Posts: 3,618	You will be better off with the reman comp. It takes special tools to remove and install parts on front of comp. John __________________ john http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showgroups.php board vendors http://www.flickr.com/photos/1745471...7602865984234/

10-10-2005, 02:08 PM	#3
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	Needs a special tool. Looks kinda like this. http://www.tooldesk.com/products/pro...l.aspx+id+1762 Can't remember where I bought mine. Think Napa. Edit: I went ahead and bought the tool. It was cheaper than paying for a whole compressor and having it serviced. Last edited by chickenwing; 10-10-2005 at 02:10 PM.

10-10-2005, 02:13 PM	#4
phlegm Still Green but learning Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 1,895	Very cool, thanks guys!! This board Rocks. __________________ -- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was

10-10-2005, 04:11 PM	#5
phlegm Still Green but learning Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 1,895	Started surfing the removal tool and found it pretty cheap, there is an installation kit as well... Do I need special tools to install too? __________________ -- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was

10-10-2005, 10:11 PM	#6
phlegm Still Green but learning Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 1,895	Bump, tool or compressor, that is the question. __________________ -- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was

10-10-2005, 10:31 PM	#7
Blue4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 790	If it were me...I'd buy the reman compressor. Just think of all the work that could be done and have the possiability of a bad compressor seal. I do heat and ac for a living and have all the tools to the job that most people aren't able to.

10-10-2005, 10:36 PM	#8
phlegm Still Green but learning Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 1,895	Blue, you are my hero, not just for the advice. I used to ski competitively in college, and once married found more time for trucks the the lake. That looks like an awesome rig in you avitar, send me the larger pic. cory@deanhardt.com Thanks for the advice, I will take it to heart, trick here is the clutch hub was free off a bad comprssor, so 25.00 for the tool or 100.00 for the compressor. If I need special tools to reassemble I will have to pass. __________________ -- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was Last edited by phlegm; 10-10-2005 at 10:43 PM.

10-10-2005, 11:07 PM	#9
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	Some parts stores will rent the tools, but not all have the ones for the a/c clutch. It would probably be worth a phone call. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

10-10-2005, 11:33 PM	#10
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,709	For what it's worth I made a tool for this. I used an NPT pipe bushing that threads into the clutch I think it was a 1/2 in. pipe and I simply welded a 3/8ths by 16 nut onto the bushing. Then any 3/8ths x 16 bolt with enough threads to hit the compresser shaft will work. I removed the clutch nut with my impact driver and threaded it back onto the shaft far enough to protect the compressor shaft threads then just ran the 3/8ths bolt in till it hit the nut and broke the clutch seal. I'm typing this from memory so the sizes may not be quite right but I just wanted to give you an idea if you feel like trying it. I know that buying the tool from the store may be the proper way to do it but I like making my own stuff. Total cost was zero. If I had to buy a new clutch then I'd have bought the new compressor with the clutch already on it. Good luck. __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

10-11-2005, 01:56 AM	#11
crustysarge Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Aviano, Italy Posts: 221	I just changed mine a few months ago. I wound up buying a rebuilt compressor with clutch because the clutch was around $70 and the comp w/clutch was $99. I bought a puller/installer on Ebay (Snap On) for $50. I wanted one anyway so it gave me a reason to buy it. My system still has R-12 and was OK so I did not want to bust it open. I used the puller to remove the clutch from the new comp, took about 5 minutes. I then unbolted the comp on the truck to move it back some so I could access the clutch with the puller. I pulled the old one off and it was cooked. You need the tool to install the new one and need to set the air gap. Very simple and whole process took me about 90 minutes with beer breaks. Installing the clutch, go slow and use a feeler guage to set the gap between the clutch and comp. I believe I got it to about 15 thousand or so and it was uniform all the way around. You want it as close as you can get it. If you go too far, just reverse and pull it back up a bit and then install again. Trust me, it is not hard to do and I personally think it beats opening a perfectly good sealed system which means vacum and the whole thing. If you open, be sure to change the drier as well. Plus, I have a rebuilt comp that I can sell for maybe $50 or so or just keep for a spare.

10-11-2005, 12:43 PM	#12
phlegm Still Green but learning Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 1,895	So if I understand correctly, if I change the compressor the steps would be vent the system pull compressor, replace compressor. Pull Drier, replace Drier. Put coolent back in system. No need to vaccume if I replace the drier right? __________________ -- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was

10-11-2005, 01:06 PM	#13
john member #16 Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Yuba City Ca. Posts: 3,618	when ever you open A/C system to the atmosphere you have to evacuate(pull vacuum) system. That removes all moisture from system before charging, along with new drier. Hope this helps. John __________________ john http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showgroups.php board vendors http://www.flickr.com/photos/1745471...7602865984234/

10-12-2005, 03:52 PM	#14
/<eystroke Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: North Texas Posts: 265	Does anyone know if they made different belt sizes for AC compressors? My remanufactured compressor has a slightly larger V than the belt likes. It runs on the bottom of the V instead of the sides. The belt fits correctly on the crank shaft pully. Is it a different size or just wore out? I've looked for slightly larger belts but nobody at the parts store seems to know anything. __________________ '69 C/10 Short Wide 350/400/AC/Tilt/Tach

10-12-2005, 04:20 PM	#15
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	keystroke/// try going to a lawnmower place for the bigger belt size __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY



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10-13-2005, 08:58 AM	#16
phlegm Still Green but learning Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 1,895	Hey Sarge, in evaluating the options, i think I am going to make/find a tool and replace the clutch hub. A friend of mine will donate one off of a shot compressor to me. The removal Tool I Have been able to find on line, does it also assist in installation? what did you use and how to install the old hub? How cool is truck advice from italy? __________________ -- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was Last edited by phlegm; 10-13-2005 at 08:59 AM.

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