suspension/exhaust/etc recommendations - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

70c-10 · 10-13-2005, 11:00 AM

I have a 70 c-10, 292, 4sp w/ granny. I have been working on it for about a month now, and am ready to really dig into to it.

Last weekend I was able to pickup a rebuilt 292 for $700. It looks good - here are a couple of pictures.

I bought an offy and a 390cfm holley for it.

I am ready to pull out the old engine and put in the new one.

I need to make some decisions about what to buy next. Over the next couple of weeks, I can spend about $800, then more around Nov 1st.

(1)cam should be done now since I have the engine out,right?

(2) should i get new valve springs if i step up the cam - how much would they cost?

(3)what kind of gains could I expect from changing the cam, changing out the springs, bigger carb, and dual exhaust?

What are your thoughts regarding suspension? I would like a 2/4 drop, so that the truck is level and relatively low. I assume that most of the kits they sell are for V8s.
(4)Any idea how much higher the front end will be with the 292? also, should I just go with the bare minimum right now, so that I can some of the other stuff. eventually I would like to add: Front and rear coils, front and rear sway bars, adjustable trac bar and front and rear shocks
(6)Should I just go with shocks and coils to start off, then add the other stuff later? (7)Can you recommend any other online stores that I should check out for suspension?

I broke off one of the bolts when removing the pipe, but I could probably figure something out to get me by for a while, if I should go with the suspension stuff first.
Here is the exhaust stuff I am looking at:
stovebolt headers
clifford headers clifford x pipe

(8)Which setup would you recommend, - just stovebolt, clifford headers & x pipe, clifford x and stovebolt, etc or a different brand/setup all together?

When I started pulling things apart this weekend, I noticed that I am missing a few fasteners - ie the tranny and motor only had 4 bolts holding them together. (9)How does this look as a solution? http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/aca...?productid=143

(10) list of importance/buying order for the above items?

farside847 · 10-13-2005, 11:15 AM

Well, if it was me Id get her running first, it makes life much easier when you can move it around and test out the last thing you put on...

So, I would concentrate on getting that engine done and in. Headers and dual exhaust are great, they will get you another 10-20% HP, but I dont really think you need an x pipe. They wont do too much for you unless you are putting in a really built up motor.

I will let the other guys suggest what cam to use. But this is a good upgrade. From what I understand the original cams are crap compaired to the run-of-the-mill aftermarkets. It will probably give you another 10% in HP.

While your at it I would also suggest an electronic ignition system, and a MSD. More HP, better MPG, and higher MPH

Then, once she's running you can go for the suspention stuff. I would skip the rear sway bar, but everthing else seems normal. ECE is probably the best place to buy a kit from.

have fun!

70c-10 · 10-13-2005, 11:25 AM

thanks for the input.

my one concern with putting in the the headers/exhaust and then the suspension would be clearance.

I forgot to mention - the guy that had the truck before me torched the coils, so it hops like a jackrabbit on the freeway.

What is ECE - I did a google search for them but didn't find much. Do they have a website?

farside847 · 10-13-2005, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70c-10

my one concern with putting in the the headers/exhaust and then the suspension would be clearance.

I forgot to mention - the guy that had the truck before me torched the coils, so it hops like a jackrabbit on the freeway.

Hmmm, if you stay with a 2/4 drop you should be fine, but if you go lower you might look into having a shop install new exhast tight up in the frame. Some guys even go through the crossmembers when they slam their trucks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70c-10

What is ECE - I did a google search for them but didn't find much. Do they have a website?

Yeppers. www.earlyclassic.com

70c-10 · 10-13-2005, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Yeppers. www.earlyclassic.com

just found it....
thanks

*FUNMUDDER* · 10-13-2005, 04:00 PM

According to various books and boards, the 292 is 60 pounds lighter than a 350.
If you want the six to sound really cool with headers, mount some glass-pack mufflers as close to the header as you can. When you let off i guess it makes a wicked cool sound (according to the Leo Santucci book)
I'd go with a clifford cam. They know there stuff about straight sixes.
Also, I'd get the stovebolt cast-iron headers. They would last a lot longer than headers, and flow just as good.
Sounds like a really fun truck to ride around in. Its even better your souping up an inline. If you hant more info on these, go to www.inliners.org. Full of good people who also know there stuff about sixes.
Jake

70c-10 · 10-13-2005, 05:03 PM

Quote:

wicked cool sound

I knew you were from back east even before I saw your profile.... made me smile. I moved out here from NH in March 2004.

I've glad to here the 292 is only 60 pounds lighter - shouldn't make much of a difference in the heigth.

thanks for the tips. I've been posting the same questions there too(as well as hotrod.com), just trying to get different opinions:
http://www.inliners.org/cgi-bin/ulti...0158;p=#000028

70c-10 · 10-13-2005, 05:06 PM

just got a quote on this:

The 4/6 drop disc conversion includes:
2.5" drop spindles
dust shield backing plates and vibration rings
12" rotors
new Raybestos PG Plus master cylinder
Raybestos PG Plus Loaded calipers with ceramic pads
AC Delco combination proportioning valve and brackets
brake hoses
brake hard lines
Federal Mogul bearings and seals
cotter pins
dust caps
front coil springs
rear coil springs
front KYB nitrogen gas shocks
rear KYB nitrogen gas shocks
rear shock relocator kit
rear super track bar kit w/ u-bolts
all necessary grade 8 hardware
detailed instructions

$1500 shipped - what do you think? would i need anything else for disc brakes, this should be it right? my current brakes and non-power drums.

70c-10 · 10-13-2005, 11:46 PM

@#(@*#(*@#(@(#@(#(*&(*

I just screwed up

I went and bought a stand last night and put it together. tonight, i went to get some bolts to attach the engine to the stand. i brought one of the bolts that connected the engine to the tranny with me as a reference. The guy gave the bolts in the picture to use, as well as the nuts. i tried the nuts on the old bolt and they worked. when i got home, i was able to start the new bolts by hand. i got three of the four on so that they were flush with the engine and ready to put on nuts. I was tightening the 4th one when this happened.

why did this happen and how bad of a screw up is it?

I am worried about the other three that i was able to tighten. I wonder if those are cracked too (i didn't see anything).

llegos · 10-14-2005, 12:26 AM

There was a guy that adapted a kenne bell roots type blower to his ford 300 inline. Clifford has some good stuff, but at a price. I know for the fords, ISKY makes some good cams for it. Comp cams usually has good stuff for valve springs and such, but I dont know if they make stuff for the inlines. Have fun with that, and those engines last forever, especially if you dont beat on it too much.

Aquivarious · 10-14-2005, 01:40 AM

Ohhh....That looks like a doosy... Wonder if a machine shop can fix that up? Do you still have the piece that broke off?

farside847 · 10-14-2005, 10:50 AM

Looks like there was some rust in there that got in the way. I would get a hand tap and repair all the rest of the threads. Never force it if its not going in.

Could he spot weld a nut on the back or front to repair this?

70c-10 · 10-14-2005, 11:22 AM

i have the piece - i was told that it could be tig welded back on w/ nickel - too bad I don't know anybody with one.

i am worried about the other 3 - i hope i didn't screw those up too.

10-13-2005, 11:00 AM	#1
70c-10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: redlands, ca Posts: 112	suspension/exhaust/etc recommendations I have a 70 c-10, 292, 4sp w/ granny. I have been working on it for about a month now, and am ready to really dig into to it. Last weekend I was able to pickup a rebuilt 292 for $700. It looks good - here are a couple of pictures. I bought an offy and a 390cfm holley for it. I am ready to pull out the old engine and put in the new one. I need to make some decisions about what to buy next. Over the next couple of weeks, I can spend about $800, then more around Nov 1st. (1)cam should be done now since I have the engine out,right? (2) should i get new valve springs if i step up the cam - how much would they cost? (3)what kind of gains could I expect from changing the cam, changing out the springs, bigger carb, and dual exhaust? What are your thoughts regarding suspension? I would like a 2/4 drop, so that the truck is level and relatively low. I assume that most of the kits they sell are for V8s. (4)Any idea how much higher the front end will be with the 292? also, should I just go with the bare minimum right now, so that I can some of the other stuff. eventually I would like to add: Front and rear coils, front and rear sway bars, adjustable trac bar and front and rear shocks (6)Should I just go with shocks and coils to start off, then add the other stuff later? (7)Can you recommend any other online stores that I should check out for suspension? I broke off one of the bolts when removing the pipe, but I could probably figure something out to get me by for a while, if I should go with the suspension stuff first. Here is the exhaust stuff I am looking at: stovebolt headers clifford headers clifford x pipe (8)Which setup would you recommend, - just stovebolt, clifford headers & x pipe, clifford x and stovebolt, etc or a different brand/setup all together? When I started pulling things apart this weekend, I noticed that I am missing a few fasteners - ie the tranny and motor only had 4 bolts holding them together. (9)How does this look as a solution? http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/aca...?productid=143 (10) list of importance/buying order for the above items?

10-13-2005, 11:15 AM	#2
farside847 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 995	Well, if it was me Id get her running first, it makes life much easier when you can move it around and test out the last thing you put on... So, I would concentrate on getting that engine done and in. Headers and dual exhaust are great, they will get you another 10-20% HP, but I dont really think you need an x pipe. They wont do too much for you unless you are putting in a really built up motor. I will let the other guys suggest what cam to use. But this is a good upgrade. From what I understand the original cams are crap compaired to the run-of-the-mill aftermarkets. It will probably give you another 10% in HP. While your at it I would also suggest an electronic ignition system, and a MSD. More HP, better MPG, and higher MPH Then, once she's running you can go for the suspention stuff. I would skip the rear sway bar, but everthing else seems normal. ECE is probably the best place to buy a kit from. have fun! __________________ 1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree Last edited by farside847; 10-13-2005 at 11:16 AM.

10-13-2005, 11:25 AM	#3
70c-10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: redlands, ca Posts: 112	thanks for the input. my one concern with putting in the the headers/exhaust and then the suspension would be clearance. I forgot to mention - the guy that had the truck before me torched the coils, so it hops like a jackrabbit on the freeway. What is ECE - I did a google search for them but didn't find much. Do they have a website? Last edited by 70c-10; 10-13-2005 at 11:28 AM.

10-13-2005, 11:46 PM	#9
70c-10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: redlands, ca Posts: 112	@#(@#(@#(@(#@(#(&( I just screwed up I went and bought a stand last night and put it together. tonight, i went to get some bolts to attach the engine to the stand. i brought one of the bolts that connected the engine to the tranny with me as a reference. The guy gave the bolts in the picture to use, as well as the nuts. i tried the nuts on the old bolt and they worked. when i got home, i was able to start the new bolts by hand. i got three of the four on so that they were flush with the engine and ready to put on nuts. I was tightening the 4th one when this happened. why did this happen and how bad of a screw up is it? I am worried about the other three that i was able to tighten. I wonder if those are cracked too (i didn't see anything). Last edited by 70c-10; 10-13-2005 at 11:47 PM.

10-14-2005, 12:26 AM	#10
llegos Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: pleasanton, CA Posts: 570	There was a guy that adapted a kenne bell roots type blower to his ford 300 inline. Clifford has some good stuff, but at a price. I know for the fords, ISKY makes some good cams for it. Comp cams usually has good stuff for valve springs and such, but I dont know if they make stuff for the inlines. Have fun with that, and those engines last forever, especially if you dont beat on it too much. __________________ -Steve

10-13-2005, 04:00 PM	#6
FUNMUDDER Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Maine Posts: 427	According to various books and boards, the 292 is 60 pounds lighter than a 350. If you want the six to sound really cool with headers, mount some glass-pack mufflers as close to the header as you can. When you let off i guess it makes a wicked cool sound (according to the Leo Santucci book) I'd go with a clifford cam. They know there stuff about straight sixes. Also, I'd get the stovebolt cast-iron headers. They would last a lot longer than headers, and flow just as good. Sounds like a really fun truck to ride around in. Its even better your souping up an inline. If you hant more info on these, go to www.inliners.org. Full of good people who also know there stuff about sixes. Jake

10-13-2005, 05:06 PM	#8
70c-10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: redlands, ca Posts: 112	just got a quote on this: The 4/6 drop disc conversion includes: 2.5" drop spindles dust shield backing plates and vibration rings 12" rotors new Raybestos PG Plus master cylinder Raybestos PG Plus Loaded calipers with ceramic pads AC Delco combination proportioning valve and brackets brake hoses brake hard lines Federal Mogul bearings and seals cotter pins dust caps front coil springs rear coil springs front KYB nitrogen gas shocks rear KYB nitrogen gas shocks rear shock relocator kit rear super track bar kit w/ u-bolts all necessary grade 8 hardware detailed instructions $1500 shipped - what do you think? would i need anything else for disc brakes, this should be it right? my current brakes and non-power drums.

10-14-2005, 01:40 AM	#11
Aquivarious Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Alton, Illinois Posts: 90	Ohhh....That looks like a doosy... Wonder if a machine shop can fix that up? Do you still have the piece that broke off? __________________ '71 Chevy C-10 SWB (Project) '04 Mazda RX-8 (F*** around Car) '85 Chevy C-20 (Former Project) Currently Serving In IRAQ. (Man it sucks over here..)

10-14-2005, 10:50 AM	#12
farside847 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 995	Looks like there was some rust in there that got in the way. I would get a hand tap and repair all the rest of the threads. Never force it if its not going in. Could he spot weld a nut on the back or front to repair this? __________________ 1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree

10-14-2005, 11:22 AM	#13
70c-10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: redlands, ca Posts: 112	i have the piece - i was told that it could be tig welded back on w/ nickel - too bad I don't know anybody with one. i am worried about the other 3 - i hope i didn't screw those up too. Last edited by 70c-10; 10-14-2005 at 11:23 AM.



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