Black Powdercoat vs POR-15

[72BLAZERDUDE]

For an everyday driver what are the differences. I am not building a show truck . Durability? Cost? Is there places where you wouldnt want to use POR-15. I have never seen POR-15 so I have no idea what the finish looks like. Will it hold up on suspension parts ?

[chevyguy_72]

you could also do a spray on bedliner like Line-X. I have heard of several guys going this route over powder

[72BLAZERDUDE]

I have heard that bed liner isnt very good if it is to thin.

[BubbaGreen]

POR-15 is some pretty tough stuff (assuming its applied correctly), if its a driver, i would shy away from powder coating....it looks great, but what happens is, since its baked on, the coating is HARD. As you attach the necessary hardware and tighten it down, it can crack this coating causing it to lift slightly.....then moisture/water gets under this coating and starts rusting with no evidence, until its too late. POR or any paint usually wont do this. Unless you have some serious paint equipment, you will want to brush on the POR. I ended up using eastwoods "extreme chassis black satin" Not to advertise for them, but this paint can be recoated at anytime. So far I am totally impressed with the product. I brush painted all the front suspension pieces with POR, which I really like the way those came out...apply it thin, it will self level to some extent...even dropping a piece on the cement didnt damage the coating. All I can say is "have fun"

[Blazer1970]

POR is designed to be painted over rust. It is a rust converter, not really a paint. You can't paint over it with a normal paint. I have never used it, so I can't speak to its durability.

If you want powdercoat to have any chance of lasting on something like a frame or any other chassis component, you have to sand blast and apply the powdercoat over clean bare metal. Powdercoating is still not a very durable coating as BubbeGreen has posted above.

If you are going to sandblast anyway, a good epoxy primer and a couple of coats of a good enamel paint will make the most durable, long lasting coating you can get.

[Longhorn Man]

Actually tim, the POR properly applied, and with a top coating (POR is not UV safe) it will out last any paint or power coat.

[cdowns]

por15 is good not a real worry about uv on a frame unless you're planning on running with no fenders or bed or intend to spend prolonged times with the truck upside down//i've had frames still lookin good after 10years

[4x4Poet]

POR15 is a moisture-curing coating. Not a sovent based paint. POR15 allows topcoating without primer within 3-5 hours of application while the POR15 is still tacky but no longer plain wet. I've found Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black in gloss an excellent topcoat for providing POR15 UV protection. I've heard good things on the board about the same in satin, as well, but I've never used the satin. And it must be *Extreme* Chassis Black. The old Chassis Black had too many solids and would not all come out of the can, especially if the can was older than a few months. Extreme CB was a needed improvement.

If POR15 is left to dry, they offer a *tie-coat primer* made to adhere to POR15 for topcoating with any regular, non moisture-curing paint. I think scuffing the POR15 is involved. Topcoating the POR15 while it is tacking avoids primer and any scuffing to provide the topcoat something to adhere to.

Also, avoiding primer also prevents primer colored overspray from hitting previously coated components that any topcoat might not reach. For instance, one may only topcoat the outside of a frame, so avoiding primer prevents overspray from discoloring the POR15 coated inner frame areas not intended to be topcoated for UV protection.

As an alternative to POR15, I thing Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator is much easier to apply and topcoat, but it has less film strength. OTOH, less film strength keeps it from peeling once scratched. POR15 sometimes peels once scratched which let moisture get underneath. I like to use Rust Encapsulator on frames and POR15 on axles where POR15's film strength can help handle gravel strikes and such. POR15 is also excellent for cast parts like pumpkins, knuckles, steering arms since it really grips the cast pits well and will not easily peel from such since it is difficult to get peeling action when just the high points of cast iron pits can be scratched.

I could go on. I just completed detailing a D44 front axle and a Eaton H052 rear axle.

[Joe67]

Por15 will fade on the underside as well, many Jeep guys found this out and end up painting over it.

[cdowns]

as far as jeep owners experiencing fading with por15// might have something to do with extreme suspension and body lifts leaving the frames fully exposed to direct uvrays ????

[Joe67]

Originally Posted by cdowns

as far as jeep owners experiencing fading with por15// might have something to do with extreme suspension and body lifts leaving the frames fully exposed to direct uvrays ????

Frames as well as the underside of the vehicle. lifted, stock all the same.
Por15 can fade, even on the underside of a vehicle or the frame, that was my point.

[Huck]

After 8 years of use on a frame off, POR15 works best where it has something to hold onto. Rough surface, rust, castings etc. On smooth metal, I use Eastwood rust encapsulator as it adhears better. If looks are more important then function, then I would avoid POR15 on sheetmetal. It is super on lightly rusted stuff--portecting floors under carpet, underside of floors, underside of beds and places that like to rust--inner wheel wells, inner rear quarters, etc. Just remove any loose stuff and "get-er-done". JUst don't breath the fumes and if spraying, use powered air protection for breathing--that crap can kill you!
Eastwoods stuff is more forgiving in coating, mixing, sparying but it doesn't appear to provide the degree of spred, self leveling, and scratch/chip protection. So I guess it's all about what you want to accomplish. Good luck---Huck

[powdercoats]

Powdercoating, if applied and cured correctly, will not crack. Contrary to popular belief powdercoating is not hard. It is usually a TGIC polyester or a urethane (forms of plastic). Powdercoating gets its durability from being able to flex. I can powdercoat a piece of aluminum foil, wad it up in a ball and unfold it and not break the coating from the surface of the foil. If your powdercoating is cracking there is either too much film build or it has been cured at too high temperature or for too long.

I am unfamiliar with the properties of POR-15, so I cannot comment on the durability.

[4x4Poet]

Originally Posted by powdercoats

...If your powdercoating is cracking there is either too much film build or it has been cured at too high temperature or for too long....

Sounds like what I've often heard about spray-in bed-liners. While each has its strength and weaknesses, all of them are good, but their quality depends more upon how they are mixed and sprayed.

[MAR-Ktech]

Lots of good POR-15 information here: http://www.prp-porstore.com/# It is generally best to use the primer and topcoat from the same supplier/manufacturer for best results. There are plenty of topcoat options for POR-15 paint as shown at this site. Also, POR-15 is available in other colors than black for special applications.

POR-15 can be used successfully for other than rusty metal applications. We have tests going for painting bedwood with POR-15.

Mar-Ktech