Damnit, center support bearing demolished!

[JoetheMobster]

The past few days I've been hearing a clunking noise coming from underneath the truck. Yesterday, it kind of grumbled at first, but was fine all day. Today however, I pull out of the driveway, and there's this violent clunking sound coming out from underneath. I look, and the center support bearing for the drive shaft has cracked off on one side! The rubber and one side of the metal bearing are entwined around the universal joint, and are slapping away!! Guess I have to replace it now!

Do you really have to drop the drive shaft in order to replace these??

[colohusker]

From what I saw when I looked at mine, I can't see a way of doing it without dropping the rear shaft. I lost mine on Friday on the way home. Pulling out of a parking lot, clunk, and then a grinding/rubbing sound for the 4 blocks home.

At least this finally gives me an excuse to pull the bed off again and start working on the frame. I had it pulled off, then the wife needed something hauled, then a friend wanted some rock moved, and then my commuter car fried the alternator. Makes it kind of hard to do any serious work when I've put about 2000 miles on it during the past 3 weeks.

[JoetheMobster]

Just out of curiosity, did you replace the bearing yet? How much did it cost you for a new one?

Wasn't looking forward to dropping the driveshaft, as what ever I do, I'll have to do it all in less than a day. The neighbor's kids seem to get into all my stuff if left outside, unwatched for even a few moments! hahaha

Can't wait to get a garage!

[palallin]

Don't sweat the time: if you have everything handy--tools, new bearing, tape to wrap around the rear U-joint (to keep the caps on), and a pan to keep the parts in, you can do it in a little over an hour.

[colohusker]

I haven't gotten one yet, but NAPA said 32.95. But.... I've heard of people having problems getting the correct one, so I was planning on pulling mine and taking it with me when I pick up the new one. Doesn't look that hard to do, Drop the rear driveshaft, slide it off the carrier, drop the front driveshaft, unbolt carrier from crossmember, have a beer, replace. I was also going to replace the ujoints while I had everything apart.

[blue72stepside]

I 'am not such what type you have. If you have the carrier with one bolt in front of the other. Try place a good hose clamp around the outer edge and between the bolts on top. snug the clamp to the carrier as u put it in and tight the bolts the clamp will tighten up a little more. This clamp will provide extra strength.

[ChevLoRay]

Noises are little (big) clues that things ain't right. If you hear a sound that is new, check it out.

You're lucky it happned in the driveway.

My son's truck had the same thing to happen on his way home. The welds holding the bearing collar to the mount, broke. This lets the driveshaft flop around. It can do a lot of damage very quickly, if it stays in the vehicle.

Changing all of the u-joints is good, at the same time you replace the carrier bearing and support.

You're looking at spending close to $60-70 for the total, if you do the labor yourself. Good luck.

[RipMeyer]

Its not hard. I have done a few of them. Dont get that cheesy one made in india.

[JD72]

You defiently want to get one from NAPA those at the discount part stores are bad if you do any hell raiseing. I busted my center bearing and the rear u-joint at the same time. It ripped the yoke off the tranny, was a good excuse to get a posi with 3.73's then had a single big ole thick shaft made.

[68Custom]

I had Sears replace mine about 6 months ago. NOT two weeks later and i heard this loud clunking noise so i had my truck towed (for free) back to Sears and had it replaced again, except this time for free Good luck with yours, i heard they are no fun.

Aaron

[1970 CST Short Wide]

IF you have a short bed truck its worth investing in a 1 peice drive shaft, you can have one for about the cost of replaceing 3 center supports. IF you have a long bed truck Sorry your stuck with a two peice shaft.

[JoetheMobster]

This lets the driveshaft flop around. It can do a lot of damage very quickly, if it stays in the vehicle.

Yeah, the collar on my truck's broken too! Welds snapped on one side. So am I mistaken when I go to order the center support bearing replacement, I will NOT be getting the metal bracket + rubber insert? The rubber part WAS in good condition, haha, but I needs replacing now.

[smonty]

I have one of the metal collars off of a 70 suburban. Do not have the rubber part. It has two bolts on it to fasten to the frame. If this is the same as the one you need you can have it for postage. Would take about 3 days via priority mail to get to you. Send me your address if you need it and I will put it in the mail tomorrow. You can send me a check for the postage after you receive it. Should be around 5 bucks.

[COBALT]

Mine was shot, so I decided to replace it when I replaced the U-joints. You have to drop the whole driveline, because the bearing is lightly pressed on behind the removable yoke that's held in by a bolt.

Here's some makeshift instructions, because I feel your pain (these only apply to inline bearings):

1. Go to NAPA and get the $32.95 bearing. It's actually a very good bearing, and holds up well.

2. If you don't have a bearing press stop by a hardware store and get a steel pipe coupler where the diameter sits right on the inner race of the bearing (you may already have stuff like this but I didn't). Get a coupler that's 4" long. If you're not sure about this then just wait until you have the driveshaft in your hand and make the trip to the hardware store using the wife's car. The pipe fitting will need to fit over the splined end of the driveshaft. Get a steel cap to go with it, so you can use the hammer on it. You'll use this makeshift driver later to tap the new bearing into place.

3. Lift the truck onto some jack stands until it's level. If you can't level it then make the front of the truck lower than the back to keep that tranny fluid in. Get underneath, and mark up your driveline with a wax pencil or white chalk to keep the orientation correct (including the output shaft on the transmission, the removable yoke behind the bearing, and the 3rd member yoke on the differential). Don't neglect marking up the driveline or it'll be out of balance when you put it back in. Undo the 4 bolts on the 3rd member of your diff., undo the 2 bolts on the center bearing housing, tape the caps on the U-joint, and...

4. Drop the driveline. I like to get up under the truck and allow the slip yoke on the tranny to slide off and catch it with my feet as I handle the diff. end, then just roll out from under the truck and set it on the pavement next to me. Remember to bag the tranny tail to keep fluid from dribbling out as you work.

5. Press out the center U-joint. Make sure you press out the two ends of the U-joint that are in the removable yoke you're going to have to remove to get to the bearing. Picking the wrong ends means you'll have to completely remove the U-joint, and that's no fun. If you have a U-joint press then go for it. Otherwise You'll be using a couple of sockets (one oversized) and the hammer. Be carefull with the caps! Don't let them fall off. Do this with small moves! You want to save this U-joint. If not you'll have to shell out $13 for a new one.

6. Take the driveline with the removable yoke and put it in a vice where the vice is holding the ears of the removable yoke. Use a socket to undo the bolt in the center of the removable yoke (this is why you have to pull the ENTIRE drive line--this stupid bolt). Use a large socket that fits inside the splines of the removable yoke and slowly tap the driveline away from the removable yoke. It'll fall away, so catch it when it pops loose. Take the removable yoke out of the vice and set it aside.

7. Time to remove the old bearing. If your rubber is still in place cut this off with a construction knife, and get rid of the housing and the rubber. Only leave the bearing on the shaft. Use a set of pullers with a centerbolt that's capped (NOT one that allows the center bolt to enter that threaded hole the removable yoke bolt goes into! You'll FUBAR the threads.) to remove the bearing.

8. Tap on the new bearing. Don't bother putting those stupid dust shields in. They were used for the older style bearings and will do nothing but destroy the new one. Use that steel pipe coupler and cap you bought earlier, or use a bearing press. Tap the bearing into place until it seats against the shoulder on the drive shaft.

9. Tap the removable yoke back into place. Remember your marks on your driveshaft! Replace that pesky bolt, and tighten it.

10. If your center U-joint is still in good shape and you didn't damage it press it back into the removable yoke. Put a clip in one yoke, and remove one cap, and put the other side into the end of the yoke where you put the clip. Put the removed cap on the other yoke opposite the end you just put in. Line up the ends so they're perfectly positioned to allow the caps to go into the yoke without binding. Tap in the removed cap from the top (again small moves). Once the top one is in place the whole U-joint will start moving down as you tap. Once the bottom cap contacts the clip you put in earlier just put the top clip in and you're done.

11. Put the driveline back into the vehicle. You'll probably have to tap a bit with that hammer to get the 3rd member U-joint in place and centered. Put in the U-bolts and tighten them down. Put the bearing bolts in and tighten them.

You're done. Wasn't that fun?

[JoetheMobster]

WOW new69owner, you have really out done yourself!! THANKS!

I am going to print your post out, and use it as a mini manual when I do this. I will have to wait until next weekend to do the work, so thank god I have a 2nd vehicle to get to work!! haha.

In the mean time, if you happen to come back, can you check out my post on "do I have the right part?" I want to make sure I have the correct part. The one that's currently on my truck is so destroyed that it looks nothing like the new one! This is scary, as for a while I guess the driveshaft has been riding on the rubber boot, and bearing disappeared a while ago!!!!!

Oh well.

[COBALT]

No prob. I posted that long list mostly because I would hope that others would do the same for me! LOL

It's hard to believe that the bearing simply dissapeared. I can imagine the rubber disintegrating, but the bearing is pretty substantial, and is lightly pressed onto the shaft.

Do me a favor, will ya? Take a picture of the one on your truck (no matter how badly banged up it is). I'm curious to see what it looks like.

Let me know if you need help via a PM or by this post.

Later,

[JoetheMobster]

Update on the missing bearing....it was there still, just hiding in and amongst the mangled rubber and metal housing!! hahaha!

I can take a picture of it, but it will have to wait a while, since I only have a 35mm camera. One of these days I will get a digital unit.

[1967LWBstepside]

Originally posted by 1970 CST Short Wide
IF you have a short bed truck its worth investing in a 1 peice drive shaft, you can have one for about the cost of replaceing 3 center supports. IF you have a long bed truck Sorry your stuck with a two peice shaft.

Not true about the long beds. I have a 1 piece in mine now and it's great. It's a thicker diameter for strength so the center yoke had to be enlarged in the frame. It was custom made & balanced at a powertrain shop and only cost about as much as 6 or 7 carrier bearings (for everything including new U-joints and all parts/labor from transmission to differential). One of the best things I've done the truck

Don't get the Chinese made bearings either. Junk. If the bearing breaks often, you may have an out of balance or even slightly bent shaft.

Also when you take the shaft out be sure to chock your wheels well on front and back so the truck won't move either direction. I knew a guy who rolled the car onto himself off jackstands when he disconnected the shaft. He was fortunate to survive that close call.

[JoetheMobster]

1967LWB:

LOL!! I was out at my friend's junkyard where I used to live a few years ago, and he was working on a car out back. After leaving the garage, I went looking looking for him, but couldn't find him anywhere! I heard this laughing coming out from underneath a car, it was him and the car had colapsed on him! This guy was a BIG dude, nice and fat, and it was right on his chest! I sh*t you not, he lifted that car off of his chest, and chucked it aside like nothing! I was standing there in awe. Lucky he was a gruff and crazy bugger! guess that's why we called him Stormin' Norman!

[Longhorn Man]

For the 1 pc shaft ona a short bed, coil sprung short shaft TH350 and a small block in the proper place, should be 4 foot 10 inches.
Just in case these guys gave someone a wild idea.

[gmtruck71]

One of THE best things I have done on my 71 SWB was to remove the 2-piece drive shaft, and the carrier bearing bracket that attaches to the crossmember, and have a new shaft made. Problems are non existant. Cost of new yoke, spicer U-joints, U-joint flanges, tubing, and labor $270.00. Well worth every penny.

I had a 79 GMC LWB that came from the GENERAL with a 1-piece driveshaft. 305 with a 350 turbo and a corporate 12 bolt. 200,000
problem free miles.