Trailing arm question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Solver · 11-07-2005, 01:01 AM

recently I redid a frame and had a couple of trailing arms left over .One was beyond repair but the other is pretty decent except it is seperated.
I sandblasted it down,drilled out all the rivets today and removed all the crap in between the 2 halves.
Drilled the holes bigger for some grade 8 bolts and Painted it with some por15. My question is does there need to be something sandwiched in between the 2 halves or can I just bolt it together as is.

BowTieMan · 11-07-2005, 01:26 AM

ACE hardware sells a bunch of grage 8 bolts.

Solver · 11-07-2005, 01:30 AM

Rick I believe there were 10 rivits to drill.
took less than 1 hour. I got the grade 8's at a farm and home store called Bomgaars here. They sell them by the pound here. I think they were $3-$4 a pound. Since I only need a few the cost was minimal. Can't really tell you exact price as I also picked up some bigger grade 8's to bolt the whole front cross member on the front of the frame also.I would assume that the auto parts stores would sell them also but I find it cheaper to buy where the farmers do!!

Solver · 11-07-2005, 09:47 PM

ttt for the original question

68haywagon · 11-07-2005, 10:35 PM

I don't believe anything goes in between them. The ones I bought don't appear to have anything in the middle.

Mike

Longhorn Man · 11-07-2005, 11:11 PM

ONly thing I have ever seen in there is rust.
if you can't find grade 8...grade 5 is more than strong enough. A rivit is grade 3 or something pathetic like that.

jimfulco · 11-08-2005, 02:32 AM

I've bought grade 8 bolts at Lowe's in the fastener aisle.

11-07-2005, 01:01 AM	#1
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	Trailing arm question recently I redid a frame and had a couple of trailing arms left over .One was beyond repair but the other is pretty decent except it is seperated. I sandblasted it down,drilled out all the rivets today and removed all the crap in between the 2 halves. Drilled the holes bigger for some grade 8 bolts and Painted it with some por15. My question is does there need to be something sandwiched in between the 2 halves or can I just bolt it together as is. Attached Images __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

11-07-2005, 01:26 AM	#2
BowTieMan Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Glendale Arizona Posts: 747	Re: Trailing arm question ACE hardware sells a bunch of grage 8 bolts. __________________ "A true hotrodder wouldn't be content untill he had created a car so violent, so hairy, so totally sick that the very act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster." - Tony DeFeo

11-07-2005, 01:30 AM	#3
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	Re: Trailing arm question Rick I believe there were 10 rivits to drill. took less than 1 hour. I got the grade 8's at a farm and home store called Bomgaars here. They sell them by the pound here. I think they were $3-$4 a pound. Since I only need a few the cost was minimal. Can't really tell you exact price as I also picked up some bigger grade 8's to bolt the whole front cross member on the front of the frame also.I would assume that the auto parts stores would sell them also but I find it cheaper to buy where the farmers do!! __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

11-07-2005, 09:47 PM	#4
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	Re: Trailing arm question ttt for the original question __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

11-07-2005, 10:35 PM	#5
68haywagon I'm watching you! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Levittown, PA Posts: 1,822	Re: Trailing arm question I don't believe anything goes in between them. The ones I bought don't appear to have anything in the middle. Mike __________________ 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z71 4WD 1993 Chevrolet C-1500 W/T - Blue - 4.3L V-6, 4 speed auto - Dad's (RIP) 1992 Chevrolet S10 - LS swap project 1968 Chevrolet C-10 longbed fleetside - sold

11-07-2005, 11:11 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Trailing arm question ONly thing I have ever seen in there is rust. if you can't find grade 8...grade 5 is more than strong enough. A rivit is grade 3 or something pathetic like that.

11-08-2005, 02:32 AM	#7
jimfulco Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Shreveport LA Posts: 3,170	Re: Trailing arm question I've bought grade 8 bolts at Lowe's in the fastener aisle.



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