Brake line removal - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

lux hauler · 08-31-2002, 08:49 PM

I'm puttin new wheel cylinders on my truck and I can't get the brake line off the back. Is there some kinda trick to this

I'm afraid I'm gunna booger up the nipple.
Thanks

Longhorn Man · 08-31-2002, 09:22 PM

No trick...just good 'ole mother nature doing her best to keep our northern trucks from rattling apart. (that would be rust for all you non-knowing cali ppl who have never seen a rust hole)

lux hauler · 08-31-2002, 09:26 PM

I soaked it good yesterday but it still won't turn.
What is that nipple made of?

Longhorn Man · 08-31-2002, 09:30 PM

Rust aperantly...just like mine.

You refering to the bleeder valve, or the incoming brake line fitting?
Wither way, it is normal steel if I am not mistaken.

lux hauler · 08-31-2002, 09:33 PM

The brake line fitting.
Well, I guess if I mess it up I'll just have to buy a new line.

Thanks 'mail

junkyardjohn · 09-01-2002, 01:40 AM

I LIVED IN MICHIGAN FOR 35 YEARS, SO I'M WELL AQUAINTED WITH THAT BROWN SH!T CALLED "RUST". THE BEST WAY I'VE FOUND TO REMOVE THEM, IF YOUR GONNA HAFTA REPLACE THE LINE IS TO NIP THE LINE OFF WITH SIDECUTTERS (OR DIKES) & PUT A 6 POINT SOCKET ON THEM.

jostrans68 · 09-01-2002, 02:05 AM

I always use a small pair of vice grips and i get them out about 90% of the time and the are still useable

hjalbert · 09-01-2002, 02:24 AM

my tip, from experience, is to use vice grips, and if you break the brake line, then inline tube can hook you right up, i decided to order a whole set off stainless lines, when i found out shipping would be the same for that as it would be for on little line, got all the lines for my 69 swb 4wd for under 200 delivered. i think it was worth it.. imho

bobs409 · 09-01-2002, 08:42 AM

If the lines look "iffy", just replace them. If your sure they are in good shape, spray the end with WD-40 and tap with a hammer. Then lock a vise grip on and give one good smack to break loose. Most times, this will work. For the other 1% of the time you'll have to replace the line.

This is a good time to replace all the lines if they've been on for a long time. They are cheap and you have to bleed the brakes anyway...

Tip: Be carefull how you run the lines. I had one rub through as it was scraping against the frame. I just replaced that yesterday. It started out as continually losing a little fluid and was driving me nuts because I coudn't find it! Yesterday it let go

No mistaking where it was coming from after that.

Brakes are a serious thing. Never skimp when it comes to them.

**Classic Heartbeat** · 09-01-2002, 02:37 PM

I use a tube wrench and tap try to tap it toward tightening it then toward loosening it and that useually breaks the lines or the bleeders free. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

Duner97 · 09-01-2002, 03:33 PM

us cali people dont know rust?? wow! thought i'd never hear that. i just moved from the coast and after a couple nights of leaving my quad an the beach, i had to clean the rust off my aluminum handle bars. had my old truck for 6 months. no rust when i bought it, had 3 or 4 spots of it under the paint when i sold it. its bad on the coast.

**Palf70Step** · 09-01-2002, 09:32 PM

Just did mine and had same problem. Like most said the vise grip to break it loose. For me the hardest part was the rear end. Had same trub with the bolts holding in the wheel cylinders. Had to break them loose with vise grips also.

Lots of WD40...Lots of patience... and a prayer or two helps...mostly so you don't rip you or the truck to shreds when they won't budge!!

lux hauler · 09-01-2002, 11:12 PM

I couldn't get it to turn so I cut the line.
I guess I'll be ordering a new set of stainless lines

Thanks for all the suggestions.

bobs409 · 09-02-2002, 08:47 AM

Ah, now you can use a socket!

If you want to do this job alot cheaper, just go to the local auto parts store and buy some straight line and a tubing bender and flare tool. You can probably replace every single line for $15 dollars or less!

IMO, the idea of stainless steel lines is nice but I don't think really nescasary. It's more for the "truck that has everything".

Regular steel lines with a coat of paint from the start will hold up for a very, very long time. I have mine on for over 5 years now and not even a sign of rust yet. (and I drive mine everyday in all kinds of weather-Pa.) No rust on the inside either as I did have to replace one due to rubbing the frame-DOH!

It's your choice though.

Have fun

Longhorn Man · 09-02-2002, 09:16 AM

I have to agree with bob...30 years is a pretty good life span for a brake line...

Lippyp · 09-05-2002, 11:42 AM

Do you guys ever use copper brake lines? This is the most common material used here in the UK and will outlast steel by a fair stretch. It's nice and soft so easy to bend and flare and you can buy it by the roll. I have not seen stainless lines for any car here in the UK at all , maybe it just hasn't reached us poor cousins yet! We do know a thing or two about combatting rust over here, 2 inches of rain in just over an hour in the middle of August!....what a great summer. One job I need to try and do before the winter sets in is to spray all the cavities, box sections and underbody with anti-rust wax, a really messy stinky operation.

08-31-2002, 08:49 PM	#1
lux hauler Psycho-billy Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,591	Brake line removal I'm puttin new wheel cylinders on my truck and I can't get the brake line off the back. Is there some kinda trick to this I'm afraid I'm gunna booger up the nipple. Thanks __________________ '72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207/213, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian). Last edited by lux hauler; 08-31-2002 at 09:19 PM.

08-31-2002, 09:26 PM	#3
lux hauler Psycho-billy Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,591	I soaked it good yesterday but it still won't turn. What is that nipple made of? __________________ '72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207/213, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian).

08-31-2002, 09:33 PM	#5
lux hauler Psycho-billy Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,591	The brake line fitting. Well, I guess if I mess it up I'll just have to buy a new line. Thanks 'mail __________________ '72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207/213, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian).

09-01-2002, 01:40 AM	#6
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,427	I LIVED IN MICHIGAN FOR 35 YEARS, SO I'M WELL AQUAINTED WITH THAT BROWN SH!T CALLED "RUST". THE BEST WAY I'VE FOUND TO REMOVE THEM, IF YOUR GONNA HAFTA REPLACE THE LINE IS TO NIP THE LINE OFF WITH SIDECUTTERS (OR DIKES) & PUT A 6 POINT SOCKET ON THEM. __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

09-01-2002, 02:05 AM	#7
jostrans68 Jostrans68 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Bloomington indiana Posts: 1,182	I always use a small pair of vice grips and i get them out about 90% of the time and the are still useable __________________ [CGTW Member former 67-72 now with a 96 silverado

08-31-2002, 09:22 PM	#2
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	No trick...just good 'ole mother nature doing her best to keep our northern trucks from rattling apart. (that would be rust for all you non-knowing cali ppl who have never seen a rust hole)

08-31-2002, 09:30 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Rust aperantly...just like mine. You refering to the bleeder valve, or the incoming brake line fitting? Wither way, it is normal steel if I am not mistaken.

09-01-2002, 02:24 AM	#8
hjalbert cracker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Wilmington, NC Posts: 1,021	my tip, from experience, is to use vice grips, and if you break the brake line, then inline tube can hook you right up, i decided to order a whole set off stainless lines, when i found out shipping would be the same for that as it would be for on little line, got all the lines for my 69 swb 4wd for under 200 delivered. i think it was worth it.. imho __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Harry John Albert III located in Phoenix, AZ 1972 GMC JIMMY, 1969 lwb Chevy Frame, 1999 bmw k1200 ltc 1992 Kawasaki concours 1991 bmw k75 1973 cortez motorhome

09-01-2002, 08:42 AM	#9
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	If the lines look "iffy", just replace them. If your sure they are in good shape, spray the end with WD-40 and tap with a hammer. Then lock a vise grip on and give one good smack to break loose. Most times, this will work. For the other 1% of the time you'll have to replace the line. This is a good time to replace all the lines if they've been on for a long time. They are cheap and you have to bleed the brakes anyway... Tip: Be carefull how you run the lines. I had one rub through as it was scraping against the frame. I just replaced that yesterday. It started out as continually losing a little fluid and was driving me nuts because I coudn't find it! Yesterday it let go No mistaking where it was coming from after that. Brakes are a serious thing. Never skimp when it comes to them. __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10

09-01-2002, 02:37 PM	#10
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,766	I use a tube wrench and tap try to tap it toward tightening it then toward loosening it and that useually breaks the lines or the bleeders free. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

09-01-2002, 03:33 PM	#11
Duner97 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Arroyo Grande, CA Posts: 125	us cali people dont know rust?? wow! thought i'd never hear that. i just moved from the coast and after a couple nights of leaving my quad an the beach, i had to clean the rust off my aluminum handle bars. had my old truck for 6 months. no rust when i bought it, had 3 or 4 spots of it under the paint when i sold it. its bad on the coast. __________________ 72 SB 4x4 -Duner97

09-01-2002, 09:32 PM	#12
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 47,083	Just did mine and had same problem. Like most said the vise grip to break it loose. For me the hardest part was the rear end. Had same trub with the bolts holding in the wheel cylinders. Had to break them loose with vise grips also. Lots of WD40...Lots of patience... and a prayer or two helps...mostly so you don't rip you or the truck to shreds when they won't budge!! __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

09-01-2002, 11:12 PM	#13
lux hauler Psycho-billy Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,591	I couldn't get it to turn so I cut the line. I guess I'll be ordering a new set of stainless lines Thanks for all the suggestions. __________________ '72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207/213, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian).

09-02-2002, 08:47 AM	#14
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	Ah, now you can use a socket! If you want to do this job alot cheaper, just go to the local auto parts store and buy some straight line and a tubing bender and flare tool. You can probably replace every single line for $15 dollars or less! IMO, the idea of stainless steel lines is nice but I don't think really nescasary. It's more for the "truck that has everything". Regular steel lines with a coat of paint from the start will hold up for a very, very long time. I have mine on for over 5 years now and not even a sign of rust yet. (and I drive mine everyday in all kinds of weather-Pa.) No rust on the inside either as I did have to replace one due to rubbing the frame-DOH! It's your choice though. Have fun __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10

09-02-2002, 09:16 AM	#15
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I have to agree with bob...30 years is a pretty good life span for a brake line...



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

09-05-2002, 11:42 AM	#16
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	Do you guys ever use copper brake lines? This is the most common material used here in the UK and will outlast steel by a fair stretch. It's nice and soft so easy to bend and flare and you can buy it by the roll. I have not seen stainless lines for any car here in the UK at all , maybe it just hasn't reached us poor cousins yet! We do know a thing or two about combatting rust over here, 2 inches of rain in just over an hour in the middle of August!....what a great summer. One job I need to try and do before the winter sets in is to spray all the cavities, box sections and underbody with anti-rust wax, a really messy stinky operation. __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission Last edited by Lippyp; 09-05-2002 at 11:49 AM.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.