35's on a 10 bolt?

[Strictly Gravy]

Hey, I found a great deal on a newer set of 35x12.5x15's with rims and I was wondering if I can run them on my 10bolt axles. I have heard no, but I see it all the time. TIA

-Greg

[1976K5CHALET]

Been doing it for years. Matter of fact i just finished installing a arb in my 10 Bolt with chromo shafts and superior super joints. I've run trails in arizona like woodpecker...raw deal...predator...and moabs steel bender...cliffhanger...golden spike...gold bar rim...moab rim....etc. No problems. Guess its all in how you apply the skinny pedal. But all my friends from arizona are half ton hero's...the trick for the hard core stuff is chromo shafts and super joints...

Doug W.

[Strictly Gravy]

Thank you for your help, I appreciate it. Guess I will Paypal the guy right now

[72 CustomCamper]

I had a friend that ran 38" Swampers on the stock 10 bolt rears. He even wheeled the truck a few times with no problems...


Chuck

[tornado_tech]

A 10bolt will hold up fine with stock axle shafts with a open differential and 35's. When you add a locker, you put more stress on the axleshafts hence they need upgrading. A lot also depends exactly how hard you push the right pedal down when wheeling and what predictments you put the vehicle in.

[1976K5CHALET]

When i first started upgrading my 79 years back i did 4.10's...auburn pro series LS's front and rear...33's...rear velvet ride shackles...and a 4" lift. No fender trimming required and it wheeled really nice. Of the years i have slowly upgraded. The front auburn when it was newer actually twisted the yokes on the long side shaft...making it a pain to get out of the knuckle. After that i went to 35's and a 6 inch lift which required a sawzall to adjust the front fenders. Kinda robbed the power as itshould have 4.56 gears to be back at square one but its kind to me on the highway. Shortly after this i experimented with a rear pop right...which led to a detroit as the pop-right kept breaking pins. The rear 10 bolt you have is the weak link....but light duty wheeling you should be allright if all is well in your rear 10 bolt.

There are 2 issues in 03 in offroad that have pics of my blazer in it...one was a winching article...the other was an article called fullsize frenzy on the raw deal trail in az.


Doug W.

[Strictly Gravy]

I just rebuilt my entire rear end from some parts a friend of mine had laying around for his old 10 bolt, so Im not too worried about it.

But do 35's require fender trimming for a 5" lift? I see u needed some assistance on a 6" and 35's.

[a28doc]

depends on how much hard wheeling your gonna do I run 35" tires on a 4" lift with no prob but I dont do hard core wheeling either mostly street and some off road trailing Ive never cut the fenders if I get in a bind I occ rub when I turn to the right clear to the lock but thats it
Doc

[Zoomad75]

I'm running 35's on 4" of lift with no trimming. Rubs a little on full stuff when turning, but that don't happen all that often. I'm running 1/2 ton axles too (D44/12bolt), but both ends are open. I know I'll start breaking stuff with a locker...

[1976K5CHALET]

My 79 has slowly been evolving over the years. This new job and jump in income has made it possable for me to get her where i want her to be. Since i am an MWD contractor all the parts are a right off as a buisness expense. Before this job it took me 6 months to save enough coin from o/t sidework to buy a set of 4 front 10B chromo shafts (1 new 3 used)...a used arb...a used ORD 10B-D44 steering arm....2wd pitman arm...4 new balljoints and 2 new axle shaft u-joints. I have given up on the hardcore trailslike pritchet canyon and such because if you want to do that stuff you need to build a buggy. The 79 will be a cross between both worlds...streetable...but yet tougher than she looks to do mild trails in moab...chase ghosttowns and placer gold....but still get me the 800 mile round trip to wyoming and back...

Currently i'm stewing on the trans /t-case combo....

My rear 12B detroit has got to go...the best locker out there that i used to drive year round in phoenix.....but in this snow and ice it'll get me killed. So i am going with an arb in the rear also.....

If its a daily driver with an occasional dirt road to a fishin hole you'll be allright....but add rocks and throttle you are going to rub....

Doug W.

[Zoomad75]

Hey Doug, are you thinking of letting loose of the 12b Detroit when you get the ARB? I might be interested...

[1976K5CHALET]

Hadn't really put any thought into what i was going to do with that locker just yet. Had half a thought of putting inmy 79 2wd K5 project. The detroit is hands down the best locker out there but driving between colorado and the wyoming oil fields in winter time will get me killed. We had a deal at blazer bash this year through ORD to get special pricing on the ARB's so i bought the 10B front version and the new style compressor...so far the arb is in and the xover is installed....and i was right in the middle of installing a proto type engine exmember from ORD when i had to leave for this job. Keep in touch...i might decide to sell it in the future.


Doug W.

[stan79chevy]

i broke my first 140 bolt rear in about a week. the 12 bolt i put in 2nd made it 3 months. could have been the 3.73 gear or just my driving style. if your going to do real offroading you almost have to go with a 14 bolt. its cheaper to get a 14 bolt than it is to upgrade a 10 bolt and still have to worry about it.

stan

[Zoomad75]

Originally Posted by 1976K5CHALET

Hadn't really put any thought into what i was going to do with that locker just yet. Had half a thought of putting inmy 79 2wd K5 project. The detroit is hands down the best locker out there but driving between colorado and the wyoming oil fields in winter time will get me killed. We had a deal at blazer bash this year through ORD to get special pricing on the ARB's so i bought the 10B front version and the new style compressor...so far the arb is in and the xover is installed....and i was right in the middle of installing a proto type engine exmember from ORD when i had to leave for this job. Keep in touch...i might decide to sell it in the future.
Doug W.

I'm in no hurry. I'm not in dire need for one right now. Just checking...Thanks for keeping me in mind though..

[Zoomad75]

Originally Posted by stan79chevy

i broke my first 140 bolt rear in about a week. the 12 bolt i put in 2nd made it 3 months. could have been the 3.73 gear or just my driving style. if your going to do real offroading you almost have to go with a 14 bolt. its cheaper to get a 14 bolt than it is to upgrade a 10 bolt and still have to worry about it.

stan

Cheaper is a relative term. Swapping to a 14B also requires changing the wheels to an 8 lug pattern, changing out the front hubs/rotors to match (so you can run 4 wheels with the same 8 lug pattern), not to mention the conversion u-joint you need if you don't upgrade the rear d-shaft to match the 14bolt yoke.

While I plan on moving to a 14bolt eventually, I'm going to have to spend almost as much (if not more) to make the swap to a 14b as I would buying upgraded 12bolt axle shafts. Sure the 14bolt itself is cheap (say a $100 bopneyard find), its the addtional parts you have to change out to do the job right that adds the price. I can swing the hubs at a local boneyard for $25 a side. But I don't plan on using boneyard rotors so $30 a side gets spent on new ones. Add 4 new wheels, even $30 steelies and you got $120 in wheels. So I've got to spend $230 ($330 total with the axle) for parts to do the swap and thats assuming I find a 14bolt with the same ratio my front axle has. If I don't there goes more money to change the ratio's on one end to match. I can get Superior 12bolt axles for $107 a side at Off Road Design, save some coin left over and have better ground clearance to boot. Since I plan on going to a 14 bolt anyway, I'm going to save my money and drive what I got in a sane manner, I just wanted to illustrate 14bolts are not as cheap as everybody makes it to be.

Personally, I don't hammer on my 1/2 ton parts just to get over an obstical. That by itself can keep a 1/2 ton axle alive. Some people have to drive that way and its fine, stuff a 14 bolt in and forget about it. Not everybody has too.

[tornado_tech]

If you are looking for a cheap upgrade for your rearend, look for the 6-lug 9.5" 14-bolts that were in some late model 4x4's and the light duty 3/4 ton 2wd's. All you have to do is move the spring perches and shock mounts while using a conversion U-joint. I got less than $300 in mine and that is with an Eaton and 4:10's. It has held up to whatever I throw at it so far and is about the same strength as a Dana 60 but has semi-floating axles and 14mm studs.