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Old 12-10-2005, 03:50 PM   #1
MylilBowTie
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K10 Vs K20

I'm wonding what would be better for 4x4 strength K10 vs K20 or even K30s?

I haven't seen many K30s so its mainly K10 vs K20. As far as I can think the K20 would have most of the advantages for better strength over a K10 4x4 wise.

Anyone have any personal experiences with witch is better for durability of 4x4 parts and getting around in snow / mud?

Only thing I have ever driven four wheel drive was a 2000 Dodge Durango with pretty bald tires. It did pretty good in the snow.

My 84 Silverado is 2wd and doesn't do to bad in the snow. But I would have to say if I had a 4x4 it would get around a ton better than it can now. I mainly have trouble on hills.
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Old 12-10-2005, 05:06 PM   #2
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Re: K10 Vs K20

There's a question that has multiple answers. First off, the K10 vs K20 vs K30 to me just seems to dictate as to how much weight you can carry. Drive trains, axles, transfer cases can all differ too.
My every day driver is a K3500, mainly because I have a 9'0" utility body full of tools I need to carry with me, and cement, sand, tile and stone is heavy, thus I NEED a 12,000 GVW truck. The 4x4 is a plus for off road use on new construction job sites. The state of Pa. is pretty nasty about being overloaded, fines are hefty.
My driver is a K10, no need to carry a lot of weight, and I just like the looks of a 4x4.
My back up work trucks are K25s, a 72 and an 85. Both are strong enough for plowing, and capable of hauling some weight. ANY of these trucks are better in the snow with some weight in the back of them for traction.
Personally, I'd love to find a 78-87 K30 pickup to replace the K25s. The NP205 transfer case is a little stronger (which my 72 K25 has but my 85 has a NP208) and I could haul some more weight. In my case the factor of gas mileage isn't really a factor since its a business expense. But for an everyday driver that could be a factor.
Good Luck.
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Old 12-10-2005, 05:37 PM   #3
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Re: K10 Vs K20

Between the 1/2 and 3/4, depending on year, the only major difference would be the rear axle. 1980 and earlier, the 14 bolt full floater was the only axle you could get in a 3/4. 1981 and newer you could get a 14 semi float or the 14ff. A 1/2 got either a 10 or 12 bolt. Motors are the same, trans will be bigger in the 3/4, and the t-cases wouldn't really change between the two. The fronts are the same, either 10 bolt or Dana 44, just one is 6 lug and the other 8 lug. I wheeled a 75 1/2, 79 3/4, 81 1/2, 84 3/4 and my last an 89 1 ton, and the only problem that i had was on the 75 1/2, I kept busting rear joints. That was because the spring plate on one side of the axle was rusted, allowing the axle to rotate. It eventually took the pinion bearings out. It really depends on what type of wheeling you do. If you are in the mud, you could get away with a 1/2 with maybe even 38s. You could always buy a clean 1/2, and can easily be upgraded with 3/4 or 1 ton stuff. 1 ton will pretty much handle anything you throw at it.
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Old 12-10-2005, 06:30 PM   #4
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Re: K10 Vs K20

I guess I might have seen mostly "heavy" K20s most that I have seen have 8 lug wheels up front.

I'm not in the market to buy one. But I would love to be able to get a K20 or K30 SRW. Gas mileage is a factor some but not the main thing. I rather be able to get around in the snow/ice weather than complain about the 10-13 mpg. I get about that now in my truck.

The thing that sparked the idea. Is seeing 1/2 tons that are I guess over built in an odd way. Like having 10 bolt differentials with way over sized tires and stuff in general like that. Seems like it would be more likely to break quicker on you than help get you around. Unless its just a look the owner wants. To me it doesn't make much sense I rather have something that works. Sort of like the right tool for the job.

I don't have any intentions of trying to offend anyone.
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Old 12-10-2005, 06:36 PM   #5
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Re: K10 Vs K20

I'm thinking the best of the best most likely would have been the one year wonder...91 V30 Crew Cab....which would have been a brute with a D60 front and a 14B FF in the rear....along with the one year (91) only 4L80E-NP205 combo....i'm not sure if this combo would have been a 454 or a 350 to power it as i've never seen an older gm offering in 4x4 with a bigblock....

The biggest difference from 73 to 87 in the pickups was a K20 had the 14B FF in the rear...and the fronts were the same except the addition of different hubs and bearings to make it an 8 lug.....where as the K30's allways had a D60 up front and a 14B FF in the rear...and i would have to assume the vans and subs got the c clip version of the 14B due to being more of a passenger hauler vs. extreme duty work trucks. Course that last staement is just a opinion and not fact....also generally from 87 to 91 in the K30's which were hold overs....(and i have personally seen a vin tag and gm build tag in the door of a "92" K30 with a 73-87 two door cab)....and 87 was the first year of TBI efi in all of gm's trucks. So for light duty with a little umphh...a 87 K20 would be really sweet.


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Old 12-12-2005, 12:06 PM   #6
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Re: K10 Vs K20

if you are mainly wanting it for winter travel, then a 1/2 ton should be fine.. unless you plan on wheeling it hard.. if you are just looking for extra traction in winter weather, a 1/2ton 4x4 will do the job just as well.
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