My progress thread.

[muddpile]

Well, I've finally decided that the charger is not a suitable daily driver. When I fixed the corvette, it worked decent for a parts hauler, not good, just decent. Now I have two other projects, plus I work at a lumber yard, so a truck is really a necessity. A little over a year ago I found a 1972 chevy custom deluxe for sale. I always wanted a 72 longbox, and the fact that it was orange finished the deal. It came with a recently rebuilt 350 4bbl, a fresh rebuilt TH350 tranny with stage 2 Transgo shift kit, Fresh rear gears (Highway gearing, can't recall ratio) and a new radiator. When I looked at it I knew it was beaten, rusty and needed new wiring something fierce, but for the cheap price it was worth it. Here is what it looked like for the 11 months I drove it:





Like the highlander seat? It was kind of cool in the truck, but it makes a nicer garage couch. Anyways, the truck was half made of duct tape and mono foam, the heater and wipers didn't work, it had Mono AM radio, the one tire went flat 3 times a week and the passenger window was made of plexiglass and siliconed in, but it worked for knocking around.

As it got colder out, it got more miserable to drive, so I decided it was time to park it and rebuild it. I had been buying bits and pieces for it since I got it (it came with a pile of parts as well, including a dent and rust free box) but I knew I had to go all out and do it right the first time. I tore it half apart and figured out what I needed, then ordered all new goodmark sheetmetal for it (Cab corners, rockers, floorpans, doors, fenders, etc.).

[muddpile]

After I ordered the parts, I planned everything out in my head. I wanted something cooler/cheaper than stock (The trim was all bent or missing, not to mention the plaid seatcover that is no longer reproduced as a single piece...). I went to the wrecker for some inspiration, and came home with a nice pair of 92 chevy buckets/console in a grey velvet (they have since been steam cleaned and look a lot better)



I then ordered material to match that will work for custom door panels and headliner. I managed to track down a tilt column for it as well (Thanks HeavyD!), and a few other trick interior pieces that I will post at a later date.

Next thing that needed to be addressed was the look of the truck. In stock form it looks nice, stylish and vintage, but the price of the trim and everything would break me, so I will be going custom. It will still be orange and white, but with a bit of a different twist to it.

Now, onto the gory detail pics, the destruction and resurrection of my old pickup. I started tearing it apart a couple weeks ago, and found no real surprises. I knew it needed a lot of sheetmetal and a lot of wiring (the fuse box caught fire last month as well), so what you are about to see did not surprise me.

[muddpile]

Well, thats it for now. The cab and box are unbolted, and the wiring harness is out as well. Should I remove the cab to fix the rust (cab supports, rockers, inner rockers, floor pans, cab corners) or leave it on the frame? I assume it would be better to remove it, but I'm not sure.

Also, how many circuits should I look for in an aftermarket wiring harness. My stock fuse box has 9 fuses, and the aftermarket one I'm looking at has 12, does that sound like a good number (CD deck, heater, electric choke, all lights, horn etc. No real big options.) Thanks and I look forward to sharing more progress, hopefully going the right direction when I put it all back together.

[cflvulcan]

man them pics are bringin back some memories of when i first got my '69.

[MDC]

Way to go Muddpile. I think you should go back w/ original color and trim. Looks good w/ the fast orange ralleys

[Rollie396]

way to go muddpile!Happy to see you got at it.I took my cab off to work on it but if you're not going to blast and paint the frame,then I don't think it's necessary.Keep us posted!

[krue]

Looks like you've got a plan and should turn out sharp. Keep us posted on your progress.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Damn thats some rust there we hardley ever see rust like that here.... Sounds like its gonna be a sweet ride when its done keep us posted..

[Yukon Jack]

Definitely keep us posted.

[NO LONGER DISTURBED KONCEPTZ]

Well Looks like you got your work cut out for you. But at least you get to cut and weld on the truck. Good luck man.

[Longhorn Man]

you still had paint on the floor of the cab? I'm Jelouse. I don't think I have a pic of the Longhorn's floor. It was too embarasing.
It's a bummer all that trim is so much to replace huh? I think that woulda looked nice redone with astock body.
Good luck and keep us posted.

[birdie]

Your truck looks an awful lot like mine, the rust I mean, even the same orange color. Good luck with the repairs and keep us posted

[Striker169]

Nice! Keep us updated with progress and as allwawys PICS!

[blazerparts]

Should be enlightning to follow your progress. Gonna keep that slick coolant recovery system?

[muddpile]

Thanks guys! How would I go about doing the cab supports, and front floor pans leaving the body on the frame? The box will come of regardless, as I have a rust-free one that came with the truck.

And no blazerparts, I will not be keeping the coolant recovery system. When I got the truck, that was tarp strapped to the inner fender, and that makeshift battery tray was welded to the rad support and inner fender. The battery was held down with a matching tarp strap. I will be buying/building a new battery tray and I have one of those stainless tube recovery bottles.

[Longhorn Man]

Well, if you are going to have the cab gutted, you may as well pop it off just so you can paint the frame, even if it is just rustoleum spray bomb.
As for the actual repairs, (I have not done this myself keep in mind) that as long as your cab floor doesn't sag or flex once removed, you should be able to do it with some good measuring. I would trialngulate every important measurement personally, measure 2 or even 3 times and then get to work.

[muddpile]

One thing I was wondering, if I do take the cab off, can I just roll it back on the frame and let it lay on its back while I do the cab supports? It seems like it would work a lot easier than if I were to do it trying to weld upside down. Also, do I do the floorpans or cab supports first? I think the floorpans, but I can't remember. I will be painting the frame with some decent black paint, not a show quality job or anything, but something to make it look presentable and protect it from rusting.

[Longhorn Man]

I can't remember who i was talking to about this, but I remember some one pointing out that the front of the cab is way too heavy and with no diirs and then cutting out parts of the bottom, the cab will start to distort from all that weight.
Now, if you could fab up some sort of a jig to hold it leaning onto the firewall, maybe that'll work.
I agree with you on welding over your head...not a fun job.

[72MARIO]

My only sugestion is make sure you have you new body mounts in place under the cab and rad support. Align the door in the cab opening then hang the fenders before you weld on new rockers. That way you can be sure your door to cab and door to fender gap is decent looking before you finialize your gaps by welding on the rockers.

[muddpile]

Don't worry mario, thats how I planned on doing it. I've seen too many trucks with crooked/bondo rockers to do a shotty job in that area.