sway bar bracket to frame mount? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

BUXMAN66 · 09-18-2002, 12:52 PM

the stock location for mounting a sway bar brackets to the frame, do you need to remove the factory rivet at the point that the core support is mounted to the frame?there are 2 mounting tabs on the sway bar mounting bracket that attaches to the frame and i'm wondering if the rear hole location,(rear hole, meaning the hole closest to your engine vs. the forward hole which is closer to your bumper) serves double duty in attaching the core support as well as mounting the rear hole of the sway bar bracket. i dont have a sway bar attached to my truck to use as a guide,but it seems i have seen this in the past.would it not be poss. if this is correct, to mount the sway bar bracket just forward of the core support factory rivet and mount it there?what would you be off...1/4 to 1/2 an inch ......i dont/t see that as being a major issue of geometry would it ?isnt the factory (which i got off of a '79 1/2t ) sway bar configured to a bend at the ends , which i believe would give you a little extra room to play w/?? thanks all .

**COBALT** · 09-18-2002, 01:10 PM

I was under the impression that you had to remove those rivets to put a sway bar in if the truck never had one. I have a sway bar + brackets ready to go from a '68, and the brackets seemed like they'd bolt right to the frame in this position.

Maybe I didn't look well enough, but I heard it was simple to put one in....

BUXMAN66 · 09-18-2002, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by COBALT
I have a sway bar + brackets ready to go from a '68, and the brackets seemed like they'd bolt right to the frame in this position.

so did you'rs have a sway bar on it b-4 , and you just did a upgrade in diameter or what?

Southpa · 09-18-2002, 02:06 PM

Factory sway bars are rivetted to the frame. I'm pretty sure you have one hole already on either frame rail for mounting the rear flange of the brackets, directly under the crossmember, and will have to drill out the holes for the front flanges. You'd better double check and do a practice fit before drilling, its been a few years for me, lol. The ends of the bar should match up with the predrilled holes on the top of each lower control arm. The rear legs of the brackets are longer than the fronts. And at that point the frame rails angle down.

**COBALT** · 09-18-2002, 02:33 PM

No, my truck has never had one. It looks like you have to drill out those two rivets in the cross-member, and then run 8-grade bolts through the cross member, the frame, and the sway bar bracket.

I could be wrong though. It may just be an assumption on my part from doing a quick glance. Seems funny that the factory would provide already-available holes in the lower control arms and the two in the frame, but not allow the cross-member rivets to line up. I have to go out to my dad's friday night to drill out the upper ball joint rivets, and I have to check out the frame anyway. I'll check.

Oh, I just thought of something. Aren't the two pre-existing holes in the frame oval instead of round (like to allow adjustment)? Maybe I'm crazy, but that just popped into my head.

**Classic Heartbeat** · 09-18-2002, 03:32 PM

No drilling is required..... All of the frames have the holes already in place, even back to 67.... You will have to remove the rivet that holds the front crossmember to the bottom of the frame rail and that hole serves as the rear sway-bar bracket hole. Once you set the bracket in place you will see that it lines up with one of the two holes directly in front of it. One is a slotted hole and the other is just a round hole. The round hole is the one it will allign with. I would also use grade 5 bolt instead of grade 8 so you have some flexabillity.... WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 09-18-2002, 03:42 PM

WES is correct on the swaybar location and grade 5 on frames, grade 8 has less shear strength.

**COBALT** · 09-18-2002, 04:31 PM

...so my assumption about the x-member rivets was correct. Good luck.

BUXMAN66 · 09-19-2002, 01:40 AM

thanks guys! appreciate the responses.later,buxman66.

09-18-2002, 12:52 PM	#1
BUXMAN66 go bucks! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: MIAMISBURG OHIO USA Posts: 803	sway bar bracket to frame mount? the stock location for mounting a sway bar brackets to the frame, do you need to remove the factory rivet at the point that the core support is mounted to the frame?there are 2 mounting tabs on the sway bar mounting bracket that attaches to the frame and i'm wondering if the rear hole location,(rear hole, meaning the hole closest to your engine vs. the forward hole which is closer to your bumper) serves double duty in attaching the core support as well as mounting the rear hole of the sway bar bracket. i dont have a sway bar attached to my truck to use as a guide,but it seems i have seen this in the past.would it not be poss. if this is correct, to mount the sway bar bracket just forward of the core support factory rivet and mount it there?what would you be off...1/4 to 1/2 an inch ......i dont/t see that as being a major issue of geometry would it ?isnt the factory (which i got off of a '79 1/2t ) sway bar configured to a bend at the ends , which i believe would give you a little extra room to play w/?? thanks all . __________________ '68 swb 1/2t 350/350th '86 lngbd 3/4 TON parts getter '49 gmc 1/2 t 5 window 350/350th '96 gmc sonoma sle ext-cab. hey it's a 4cyl. 5 spd and good on gas y'know?

09-18-2002, 01:10 PM	#2
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I was under the impression that you had to remove those rivets to put a sway bar in if the truck never had one. I have a sway bar + brackets ready to go from a '68, and the brackets seemed like they'd bolt right to the frame in this position. Maybe I didn't look well enough, but I heard it was simple to put one in.... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-18-2002, 02:06 PM	#4
Southpa Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Victoria, BC, Canada Posts: 2,409	Factory sway bars are rivetted to the frame. I'm pretty sure you have one hole already on either frame rail for mounting the rear flange of the brackets, directly under the crossmember, and will have to drill out the holes for the front flanges. You'd better double check and do a practice fit before drilling, its been a few years for me, lol. The ends of the bar should match up with the predrilled holes on the top of each lower control arm. The rear legs of the brackets are longer than the fronts. And at that point the frame rails angle down. __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first. Last edited by Southpa; 09-18-2002 at 02:09 PM.

09-18-2002, 02:33 PM	#5
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	No, my truck has never had one. It looks like you have to drill out those two rivets in the cross-member, and then run 8-grade bolts through the cross member, the frame, and the sway bar bracket. I could be wrong though. It may just be an assumption on my part from doing a quick glance. Seems funny that the factory would provide already-available holes in the lower control arms and the two in the frame, but not allow the cross-member rivets to line up. I have to go out to my dad's friday night to drill out the upper ball joint rivets, and I have to check out the frame anyway. I'll check. Oh, I just thought of something. Aren't the two pre-existing holes in the frame oval instead of round (like to allow adjustment)? Maybe I'm crazy, but that just popped into my head. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-18-2002, 03:32 PM	#6
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,766	No drilling is required..... All of the frames have the holes already in place, even back to 67.... You will have to remove the rivet that holds the front crossmember to the bottom of the frame rail and that hole serves as the rear sway-bar bracket hole. Once you set the bracket in place you will see that it lines up with one of the two holes directly in front of it. One is a slotted hole and the other is just a round hole. The round hole is the one it will allign with. I would also use grade 5 bolt instead of grade 8 so you have some flexabillity.... WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

09-18-2002, 03:42 PM	#7
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	WES is correct on the swaybar location and grade 5 on frames, grade 8 has less shear strength. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

09-18-2002, 04:31 PM	#8
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	...so my assumption about the x-member rivets was correct. Good luck. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-19-2002, 01:40 AM	#9
BUXMAN66 go bucks! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: MIAMISBURG OHIO USA Posts: 803	thanks guys! appreciate the responses.later,buxman66. __________________ '68 swb 1/2t 350/350th '86 lngbd 3/4 TON parts getter '49 gmc 1/2 t 5 window 350/350th '96 gmc sonoma sle ext-cab. hey it's a 4cyl. 5 spd and good on gas y'know?



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