Super Epoxy Verses Welding Panels?

[JRB]

Has anyone used the new two part epoxy to install patch panels? What are your thoughts on it? This is what I have heard about the product. The company that produces this product say they have done stress tests on the epoxy and the metal will tear but the epoxy will hold the seam. I know that alot of you flame throwers are probably wincing at this but I just want to know if anyone has used it? I just got a Wire Feed Welder for Xmas and I am procrastinating on using it. I just dont want to make a mess of my 69.
JRB

[72-stomper]

I never tried it but I would weld....,,You could do all the fabrication your self and pay someone to only weld it for a minimal charge...I would say for a patch 90% of labor (witch you have to do anyhow if you epoxy) is the fabrication work, grinding,filling,ect... and 10% welding. I think welding would out last and be a nicer job than epoxy ( if it works) by 10X......
Just my 2 cents...

[72-stomper]

P.S. The mig welding of patch panels is the easy part of the job...#1 rule dont get too got...dont procrastinate, do research and weld...Its a vaulable skill to learn...Good luck...BTW>>>I cut this box completely in 3 pieces and welded back togeather with almost no warpage..I donot do this for a living..just practiced on my own stuff..It was a long box,,now its a blazer length...

[vtblazer]

My worry with the epoxy would be the overlap, seems to be a recipe for rust.

[bighead]

I used to fab some aluminum aircraft panels for a defense contractor. The seams were all glued and wouldn't come apart without ripping the metal. With that said I'd still weld it!

[mudpuppie]

we sent out a hood to have painted at a local shop and was talking about doing some cab cornors , they was using the epoxy on there pannels . they said it was strong and if wreck you had to cut out or heat to get pannels off , metal would give before seam would give ....... sounds like some tough stuff , easer and faster , but mine has just been welded on .......

[72-stomper]

It sounds like:
OLD SCHOOL=WELD
NEW SCHOOL=GLUE
I like old school better..........

[JRB]

72-Stomper
My hats off to you. What a great looking truck. I have been tearing my truck apart and am finding a lot more damage than I had hoped for. Looks like I need to replace the drivers side floor and part of the kick panel. Looks like I am going to get plenty of practice with the new Mig Welder. I am kind of old school myself but I do like to keep an open mind to new ideas. I guess I will go get some sheet metal and start practicing.
Thanks for the Info,
JRB

[72-stomper]

Thanks for your kind words; JRB....What welder do you have...I may be able to give you some tips..like=
Only use .023 wire
75-25 argon,c02
Get an auto darking helmet,$35.00 ebay
Welding gun in right hand,,blow gun in left; weld blo,weld blo,ect(unless your lefty viceversa)
no more than 1/4" long welds...
alternate sides of patch so other side can cool...
Your welds may look like **** doing the multiple 1/4 long welds but they get ground any ways..It is more important not to warp...
The metal on our 67-72 is gravy to weld next to the thinner 1978 and newer stuff...You will master this very fast...

[72-stomper]

Floors are excelent for practice,,,because you dont care about warpage that much...

[northcountry67]

I have used glue and I have welded panels. Here is my 2 cents. I replaced both cab corners on an 88 Chevy extended cab pickup. For training purposes, I welded one side and glued the other. The welded side took about 1/2 day from removal to surfacer. The glued panel required that I grind the inside of the original panel (bare metal), then drill 8 small holes in both the cab and the new panel. I applied the glue, then placed 8 sheet metal screws through both to hold them tight for drying. The drying time was 24 hrs. I then had to weld up the screw holes and finish the patch. The glued side took 1 1/2 days. I could see this being a time saver in the case of a large flat panel like a bed side or door skin where it is possible to clamp it on to dry and not cause any warpage, but for my labor and with a little patience, welding is still the way to go.

[Canadian72GMC]

Do NOT weld the screw holes if you are using panel adhesive. Heat will release the adhesive.

[JRB]

72 Stomper,
I have a 110 Craftsman wire feed and I have put .023 solid wire in it. I did install the 75/25 gas bottle and regulator. Not sure how much pressure to use on the gas. The manual says 20 PSI so I will give it a try unles you know a better PSI to work with. This may sound like a stupid question but how thick is the gauge of steel in my 69 PU? If I am going to be fabing patch panels I guess I should use the same thickness of metal. Thanks for any info you can provide. If you dont mind me asking how much did your hood set you back?
Thanks,
JRB

[dennislbrooks]

I use between 15-18 lbs. others may differ. somehwere close to 20 ga I think

[boundstaffpress]

GMC Paul's says 19 ga.

[smokekiki]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

My worry with the epoxy would be the overlap, seems to be a recipe for rust.

It is less of a problem than welding.The epoxy seals the seam.

[StingRay]

Panel adhesives are actually the best when it comes to corrosion issues. I weld my patch panels though as all of the actual patches I do are never perfect fits. I always have to tack and tweak and tap and tack. With glue you would need a very near perfect fit. I would also be concerned that on mid panel patch seams the seam line might telegraph through with the glue. For OEM panel replacement, door skins, etc on non structural areas glue would be the way to go no question.

[olblue60@aol.com]

Some new car manufacturers are using expoxy in their assembly. Its my opinion that welding changes the temper in the metal and its often the welds where the rust re-occurs first. The epoxies are urathane based and actually protect the metal from rusting, especally in areas where there are layers of metal like the pinch welds are .