brake problem - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

vcrazy8 · 09-19-2002, 06:20 PM

My Truck dont stop very well when I hit my brakes hard. The pedel doesn't travel far but no matter how hard you push it doesent stop good at all. The pedel feels real hard to push. It has power brakes and it has slowly been getting worse shoes and pads look good and are adjusted right. It even does it when cold. Kinda feels like brakes do when they are overheated. Normal breaking feels normal it only does it when I push the pedel hard..Could it be the Aoto Zonr performance carbon metalic brake pads? thanks

Gordo · 09-19-2002, 08:15 PM

Not being there to try it myself makes diagnosing tough, but it sounds like it could it be your power booster is failing and also if you drive it on a sandy road and try to do a controled skid will any of the wheels lock up?

*Zkast* · 09-19-2002, 08:35 PM

I would tend to agree with the booster problem. Make sure you have a good vacuum hose connected and check your booster vacuum valve. If everything is working like it should, you should be able to have vacuum assist up to 10 minutes after the engine is shut off. If not, there is a leak.

vcrazy8 · 09-19-2002, 09:25 PM

It only holds vacume for about 2 minutes. After 1 minute there is vary little vacume.Where would I check for a leak? Or is there any other ways to test it thanks

*Zkast* · 09-19-2002, 09:49 PM

Check the booster check valve. There's a easy trick I use at work and it lets you know if there is a problem in the valve or a leak in the booster.

Start the engine, run it for a minute or so then shut it off. Immediatly pull the vacuum hose from the check valve (0r where it connects to the intake). Your looking for a vacuum leak by putting your finger over the hose/check valve. If there is vacuum there, you have a bad valve. If there is no vacuum leaking there, its a safe bet you have a leaky booster diaphram.

cableguy0 · 09-19-2002, 09:59 PM

if ur booster is original andthe truck has set around for long periods of time ever i would go ahead and replace the booster and the valve.it only a rubber diaphram inside and like any other rubber component it rots

Gordo · 09-19-2002, 10:02 PM

Start with checking the vaccum supply. With engine running, dissconect the hose from the check valve at the booster, you should have a strong vaccum and left unplugged it should stall the engine, if not you may have a restriction either in a collasped hose or crud build up at manifold. If you have a strong vaccum, reconnect hose, restart engine briefly then shut down, remove hose again leaving the plastic check valve in place in booster, is the valve holding vaccum within booster? no? Replace valve. Yes? Depress brake pedal and hold still, do you hear a constant vaccum leak? Yes? Replace booster.

vcrazy8 · 09-21-2002, 04:05 PM

I fixed the brakes. I took off the Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads and put on raybestos pads and now it will stop on a dime and give change

09-19-2002, 06:20 PM	#1
vcrazy8 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: florence alabama Posts: 81	brake problem My Truck dont stop very well when I hit my brakes hard. The pedel doesn't travel far but no matter how hard you push it doesent stop good at all. The pedel feels real hard to push. It has power brakes and it has slowly been getting worse shoes and pads look good and are adjusted right. It even does it when cold. Kinda feels like brakes do when they are overheated. Normal breaking feels normal it only does it when I push the pedel hard..Could it be the Aoto Zonr performance carbon metalic brake pads? thanks

09-19-2002, 08:15 PM	#2
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Not being there to try it myself makes diagnosing tough, but it sounds like it could it be your power booster is failing and also if you drive it on a sandy road and try to do a controled skid will any of the wheels lock up? __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

09-19-2002, 09:59 PM	#6
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	if ur booster is original andthe truck has set around for long periods of time ever i would go ahead and replace the booster and the valve.it only a rubber diaphram inside and like any other rubber component it rots __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

09-19-2002, 10:02 PM	#7
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Start with checking the vaccum supply. With engine running, dissconect the hose from the check valve at the booster, you should have a strong vaccum and left unplugged it should stall the engine, if not you may have a restriction either in a collasped hose or crud build up at manifold. If you have a strong vaccum, reconnect hose, restart engine briefly then shut down, remove hose again leaving the plastic check valve in place in booster, is the valve holding vaccum within booster? no? Replace valve. Yes? Depress brake pedal and hold still, do you hear a constant vaccum leak? Yes? Replace booster. __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

09-19-2002, 08:35 PM	#3
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	I would tend to agree with the booster problem. Make sure you have a good vacuum hose connected and check your booster vacuum valve. If everything is working like it should, you should be able to have vacuum assist up to 10 minutes after the engine is shut off. If not, there is a leak.

09-19-2002, 09:25 PM	#4
vcrazy8 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: florence alabama Posts: 81	It only holds vacume for about 2 minutes. After 1 minute there is vary little vacume.Where would I check for a leak? Or is there any other ways to test it thanks

09-19-2002, 09:49 PM	#5
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	Check the booster check valve. There's a easy trick I use at work and it lets you know if there is a problem in the valve or a leak in the booster. Start the engine, run it for a minute or so then shut it off. Immediatly pull the vacuum hose from the check valve (0r where it connects to the intake). Your looking for a vacuum leak by putting your finger over the hose/check valve. If there is vacuum there, you have a bad valve. If there is no vacuum leaking there, its a safe bet you have a leaky booster diaphram.

09-21-2002, 04:05 PM	#8
vcrazy8 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: florence alabama Posts: 81	I fixed the brakes. I took off the Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads and put on raybestos pads and now it will stop on a dime and give change



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