Drum Brake Pad Replacement?

[muddpile]

I think you call drum brake pads shoes or something, but I can't really remember. My question is, how thick is a good one vs. a worn one? Mine have about 1/8" - 3/16" of material on them still, but I have no idea how much they are actually supposed to have. Also, is it a tough job to replace and set them?

[jhow66]

Time to change them. Not hard to do.

[Rollie396]

not real difficult but if you've never done them before it can be interesting.
I'd suggest either taking a pic of the set up before taking apart.That or keep the otherside together for referance.It's amazing how fast a memory fades once something is apart.

[Smallz72project]

The first time I did drum brakes....it was a mess and I had to go buy book on the truck so I had a picture to know how to put it back together. But now I work at Les Schwab doing brakes all day. They are pretty easy to do actually, although if you go out and spend some money to get some brake tools it makes life ALOT easier and cuts time by at least half. the major tools that are helpful are the spring pliers that have a curved hook on one side and straight hook on the other and the ends are designed to help remove and install the return springs, one looks like a curved claw and the other is a dish with a nub on the side. when you get the new shoes, look at them and take note for future reference in determining if they should be replaced, if its a bonded shoe..it should have a straight line in the shape of a V going across the shoe and when the V is no longer there its time to replace, and if its a riveted shoe, change them if its close to or at the rivets. When you are putting them together, remember that there are two different shoes in most cases, one is called a Leading and the other Trailing. Take the star adjuster apart and clean it up and put Anti-seize on any moving parts. Make life easy on yourself and completely adjust the star adjuster down before assembly, will make putting the drum on alot easier. Adjust it out until you just feel slight drag when the drum is rotated. Hope this helps, have any other ?'s just ask, oh and I HIGHLY recommend having the drums turned. Happy Travels.

[Tx Firefighter]

The thickness issue will depend on whether the shoes are riveted or bonded. What I mean is whether the lining material has holes and rivets holding it to the steel part of the shoe, or whether they are hole less and glued to the metal part.

If they are riveted, look in the rivet holes and judge how far remains till the rivets would start to rub.

If it's glued, just measure the lining thickness.

Anyway, if it is 3/16", that is actually a lot of life left.

[67Fleet]

Go for it!! It is intimidating at first when you take the drums off since there is a lot of parts, but if you take your time you should be ok. I did mine for the first time about 4 months ago and it was a little frustrating but after I got the first one done the second went quite smoothly. I would recommend buying a Haynes manual or something similar to help you. It has detailed pics and drawings that you can refer to if you get stumped. I'd also recommend going ahead and buying a new spring & parts kit if you're going to replace the shoes. The kit should be about $10 and you'll need 2 of them. Then you won't ever have to replace that stuff again.

[crazyred]

just do one side at a time so you have somthing to refer to on the other side. Its a lot of running back and forth but it's what saved me the first time i did mine!!! its i good idea to take your drums to a shop and have them turned so there nice and round .... just my two cents

[Joe67]

Originally Posted by crazyred

just do one side at a time so you have somthing to refer to on the other side. Its a lot of running back and forth but it's what saved me the first time i did mine!!! its i good idea to take your drums to a shop and have them turned so there nice and round .... just my two cents

Excellent advice right there
Having the proper tools is key as well

Good Luck!

[muddpile]

The pads are bonded and not riveted. There are no rivet holes that I can see. At 1/8 to 3/16", should I still consider a rebuild? Also, the diff is from an early 80's suburban (not sure what year) so what would I need to tell the parts guys when getting parts?

[jhow66]

Yes if they are down to 1/8". Tell him you want brake shoes for a early 80's 'burb'.

[jimfulco]

Don't breathe the dust.

[LMN8UR]

Another thought, take one side with you to the parts store. Auto-Zone never gives me the right stuff the first time.

Clean everything GOOD! Make certain the adjusters work. If you are brave enough to take both sides apart at the same time, Don't put the parts in one pile! ! Don't ask me how long it took me to figure out the adjusters are different! I Said Don't ASK! !

Good Luck, and may the Raybestos Gods be with you!