55 project - rough beginnings

[MrMoose]

Hey guys, true noobie here, which will be painfully obvious by my questions and general overall direction of project.

I have inherited a real rough 55 series2 from a friend who basically gave up on it because he bought a Vette from me and wants to devote his $ and time to that. I don't really blame him, this truck needs just about everything - I should have my bean examined for attempting this.

My first questions have to do with the stock suspension. This truck is not intended to be a showpiece, but I don't want a slouch either. It is destined to get a 350/Turbo 350 combo that I already have, but goin' extra fast or drivin' crazy is not my goal either. Basically, I'd like a nice driver that is somewhat "hot rodded". So, to the suspension. How are the stock front suspensions for normal daily use? I have seen the future that wants to be IFS, but I'd rather spend $ elsewhere if the stock is adequate and not too difficult to maintain, ie; parts availability. And the rear, something that came with a 6 strong enough for an 8? Again, not a show truck, but not a beater either.

If I can utilize the stock susp. this will free up dough for body parts. I would like to use 'glass for front end, doors, and rear fenders and just fix what's wrong with the steel cab. Can you provide any help in this area? Anyone using 'glass? I have checked out 2 companies, "Showcars Bodyparts Unlimited" in Ontario Can. and "US Body Source" in Florida. "US Body Source" is substantially more expensive, but you usually get what you pay for, so I was wondering if anyone has used the outfit in Canada.

Your help and accumulated wisdom is greatly appreciated.

[dwcsr]

The stock suspension can be used without problem. It lasted 45 plus years already. The one issue with a straight axle is bump steer. Bump steer is when you hit a pot hole with one wheel the other re-acts as if it hit it also. The truck can actually move over on the road. Now with that said many run that suspension for a long time by modifying the springs and adding disc brake to the axle. Before you do change springs go to Eaton Detroit Spring http://www.eatonsprings.com/ and see what they have to say, pay special attention to the mono leaf idea. They are the foremost spring maker in the US today and have been in business for 70 years.

The rear is strong enough for a 350/t350 setup and you can get a newer rear the will bolt in like a 10 or 12 bolt with posi if you want.

As for glass body parts remember that you will have to manually fit each piece. Most come with no or only a few holes to start with and warped panels are also a factor in glass parts Steel parts are not that much more and you will save cost in time and labor so it will equal out.

I think I’d do the 350 and get it drivable and then the body to get it looking good. Then you can always do IFS and 10 or 12 bolt rear. There is a site called webrodder.com that has a lot of tech articles on this type of thing not all are 55 gm but the ideas and principles are the same. They have some on one window doors and how to do the cab corners, installing an IFS and air ride etc..

Good luck with it and keep us up on the progress.

[MrMoose]

Thanks for the info. It would be very helpful financially, to keep the stock suspension. You mentioned putting disc brakes on this set up. Do you have info on where I can look into this as after I posted I thought of that. Drums are cool, I've been playing for years , but drum brakes leave too much to be desired! Again, thanks for the help!!

[cadman89]

Wish I had the answer.. I am running the stock front end and brakes.. I have thought of a dropped I beam and monoleafs with rack and pinion steering...
then power disk brakes..Hmmm... almost up to the price of a IFS conversion.
Friend of mine is running a 55 body on a 72 chassis ...3 inch wheelbase dif.

72 front end will not fit to bolt in because the frame is ...4 inches wider...

Soooo ..I'm still looking and thinking.... If you find the answer... Let me know

Cadman

[dwcsr]

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...s/4954CBK6.htm

The kit fits the stock axle they also have a roller bearing kit to convert from the ball type but that may be in the disc kit I don't know. http://www.braketechsolutions.com/ is another, they can make any disc kit for any car/truck you want.

As for the 72 not fitting it kinda does.... with a torch and welder. Take a look at http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=180996 in this group and http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=264&SID=60

I don't recommend it, it was a lot of work. I needed to do it because I bought the parts and then found out they were different widths and couldn't return them. That and I was told it couldn't be done.

[55ChevyPU]

a cheaper yet effective way to change your front end would also be to find an old 78 or 79 junker camaro and cut out the front section. This is what we did in mine, its a 79 camaro front clip

[MrMoose]

Just wanna say thanks for the info thus far. I'm now leanin' towards the Camaro clip and steel body parts (ends up being cheaper than glass). That's what a little friendly know how will do fer ya.

My next ? concerns the rear end (of the truck) Does anyone know the widest tire that will fit in the stock fender without tubs? I know my thoughts are a bit scattered, but I'm trying to create a gameplan for assembling parts while I wait for the snow to melt. I intend on putting in a rear that will be 5 lug and go with 3.08s or something middle of the road like that.

The projects I see on this site are fantastic. The '58 GMC is gonna be one smokin' ride, I put that motor in a Vette, but sold it to my buddy (who had this truck) before I got it going. Looking forward to borrowing that puppy when I get a chance; 330 hp!

And the '55 is incredible, the color is GREAT!! I had to chuckle when the motor "disappeared" into the engine bay!

Tell your husband not to touch that 58 Apache!!! There's so much more value in a original vehicle in that condition. MINE needs to be hot rodded, you'd laugh if you saw it, BASKETCASE to the MAX!!

Thanks again, this promises to be so much more fun than the Vettes, not so many "clenched buttocks"!!

[Jebb1978]

I am running a 74 Camaro subframe as well as the posi 10 bolt out of the same car. It's not on the road anymore but It was driven this way for 15 years or so. It will run again soon! My Dad did the work and actually made money off the remaining Camaro. It is the only way to go as far as I am conserned. You can fund the extras by selling everything else after you are done with the Camaro. The Camaro rearend is narrower and will allow for more tire. The main thing is finding wheels with a good offset as there is lots of room to go out from the rearend and not lots of room inward unless you want to cut the bed walls and put some tubs in. I am not planning on going that route myself. As a last thought MrMoose.

Stick with it, the final product will be well worth your efforts!

[MrMoose]

Thanks Jebb for the post, I was beginning to think this thread was going to die a premature death !!

The Camaro really seems to be the way to go. I just recently sold a '64 Nova SS and when the $$ shows up I am going to begin looking for a donor. I, too, intend on using the rear end from the same car if possible. I like the thought of having Camaro components to modify and maintain, that'll be good for the wallet

As for pictures, well, I'm giving it some thought. The truck, essentially, is a frame with a rusty cab perched on top. All other parts are piled here and there. Once I bring the frame in out of the snow and begin the front end conversion I'll start taking some pix and continue from there. Probably within a coupla weeks.

[Jebb1978]

Sounds like mine I am not ashamed

It ran when I got it


I have a Nova too it doesn't run either. I think I am going to steal the fresh drive train that I have been storing under it's hood to use in the truck

[CAL 58 GMC]

I would agree with 55ChevyPU & Jebb1978, a Camaro clip would be the best way to go and keep the cost down low. I look at this way. You have a 51 year old truck with 51 year old technology for braking and suspension that you’re planning on putting a high performance motor in. One thing to keep in mind is matching suspension and braking performance with your motors performance for not only a pleasurable drive but safe ride. Good luck with your project what ever way you decide to go!

Jebb1979, I love the nova!

[Jebb1978]

Originally Posted by CAL 58 GMC

Jebb1979, I love the nova!

Thanks Cal . If I could decide which one to work on and stick with it I would be better off I have a fresh 283 Th-350 combo that has just been sitting in it for 2+ years because I want to update the front suspention now. It is beefed up for the 283 now but still has drums and no power. I think for now I am just going to pluck them out and run them in the 59



She is a little nice for a donor car but I really have the truck bug!

[Jebb1978]

:tj: :hj:Sorry MrMoose!

[MrMoose]

Hey no problem Jebb!! I was too busy checkin' out the Nova to notice. NO WAY is that puppy a donor!!! I know how you feel about the truck but have you checked into the car's value on Ebay? It's way better than mine but I got good money for mine (after all, it was an SS!!)

[Jebb1978]

Originally Posted by MrMoose

Hey no problem Jebb!! I was too busy checkin' out the Nova to notice. NO WAY is that puppy a donor!!! I know how you feel about the truck but have you checked into the car's value on Ebay? It's way better than mine but I got good money for mine (after all, it was an SS!!)

I know the drop tops are hard to get ahold of but I promise you, it is not work half of what I have spent to get it and get it to where it is. She was pretty rusty and wavy.

[Rokcrln]

Just my .02 I have done a few nova swaps and it is a good way to go. When looking fo ra nova for a donor don''t look for the cheapest. Look for one as if you were going to drive it for awhile. Reason for this is simple, mid 70 novas are cheap so to go from a piece to a good car is only 500-1000 differance. But this will get you a good front end, rear diff, power steering, power brakes, tilt in some novas, a good running engine, good shiftig auto and tons more little parts and pieces. So once you swap it all to the truck it will run as good as the donor with out any extra expence. Then once funds are on the way back up you can upgrade from their.

Now on the front end swap do alot of research and take your time doing the work. Depending on how you install the clip you can get a good or bad ride out of it. Keep in mind the suspention is designed to ride at a certain height. If you want the truck low you can install the clip a bit higher in the truck frame instead of cutting springs to get a low ride.

Kevin

[MrMoose]

OK everybody, time to get back to my truck thread!

I certainly appreciate all the help in lining up the ducks.

I have another question as I plan my attack. I just bought a 80 gal, 175 psi air compressor for sand blasting, grinding, painting, etc. I want to start with the frame, clean it up, get the Camaro clip welded up, 10 bolt installed and everything painted. Then I'll do the floors, start on the cab, corners & doors and EVERYTHING else!! My question at this point is, while the cab is off for frame prep, what's the best way to keep it in it's proper shape? Should I build a dolly to mount it to to keep it from twisting or warping? If this is the way to go, does anyone have any specifics for building it?? Is it enough to set it on a flat, level surface (I'm concerned because the corners are SO rotted, I'm afraid it may crumble without being supported)?

Once I get this figured out I hope to dismount the cab and get started on the frame. Hopefully I'll get some pics at this point and everyone will get a good laugh.

Thanks again, the assistance so far has been invaluable, saving me lots of cash and trouble!

[Igotachevyor2]

Originally Posted by MrMoose

My next ? concerns the rear end (of the truck) Does anyone know the widest tire that will fit in the stock fender without tubs? :

Im not sure what the widest is but i have a stock rear end and 285/60/16 on the rear had them on the front as well but left one rubbed a hole in the sidewall

[Rokcrln]

First thing I do is remove the doors and built braces that bolt to the two hinge pocket's and strike plate. [>- This keeps the openiong from shifting then you want to "X" brace the cab from side to side. You can do this off the door bars you build. You should then be ready to lift it off the frame. You can just block it up on a level floor but I would build a dolly to roll it around on and what I like to do is build it about 2' off the ground so you can work on it as well.

Kevin

[MrMoose]

Thanks Kevin, that's exactly the kind of info I was hoping for!!