Edelbrock Adjustment Help....

[elwood]

I picked up an edelbrock 1406 carb from a friend of a friend.....brand new in box, but no paperwork.

I put it on my bone stock '84 Blazer with the 305, using an adapter on the quadrajet manifold. Haven't started the truck just yet....I have some questions.


Do I hook up the vacuum advance to ported or manifold vacuum?

What adjustments do I need to do before starting up? Do I just go ahead and start it fresh out of the box and go from there?

How do I set the idle mixture screws on the front of the carb? What about setting up the choke correctly?

I looked up some info on the Edelbrock site...I just want to get some advice from people that have had personal experience with this carb.

I don't think I'll have a prob with the TV cable for the 700R4, picked up the right adapter, adjusted it according to some info on 73-87.com.

Also, The charcoal canister is missing all of the lines but the tank vapor line. Can I just plug all of the ports on the canister, and keep the vapor line hooked up. I'm used to working on older Fords with out all of this emissions stuff.

Thanks for the info...

Elwood

[pjmoreland]

The following link has some helpful pictures of where the hoses from the charcoal canister go, in case you decide to connect them up.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=169702

I have an Edelbrock Performer carburetor, and I connected the hoses as follows:

-Manifold vacuum port to distributor vacuum advance
-Timed vacuum port to "carb" port on charcoal canister
-PCV port to PCV valve & tee to "vent" port on charcoal canister
-"tank" port on charcoal canister to gas tank vent

Before I hooked up the hoses to the charcoal canister, my garage always reeked of gas fumes. Now I can't smell any fumes at all.

The following link has some good instructions for using a vacuum gauge to adjust the idle mixture screws (scroll down to the bottom):

http://www.gmcpauls.com/Tech%20Tips1.htm

I live at sea level, and the stock jets and metering rods/springs work fine. I lived in Colorado for eight years and I had to lean down the carburetor quite a bit to get it to run right.

[piecesparts]

If your vapor canister is basically trashed and not being used, then you CAN run without it. It will be an Emissions no no in some states, but that is dependent on where you live. The Manifold vacuum will give you full advance on your distributor quicker than the ported vacuum connection. They both get to the same vacuum level, but the ported one takes time to get there. The screws on the front are generally set to about 1 1/2 turns open and then adjusted after starting the motor to get the smoothest operation. I personally use a vacuum gauge (connected to the intake manifold) to set my idle screws and go for the highest vacuum I can achieve and then turn them back in a 1/4 turn.

The adjuster for the 700R4 is really simple, connect the cable to the adapter and then run the throttle linkage full open and the ratchet stop for the adjuster should cycle to the point that its is optimum for shifting. If you want a firmer shift or a shift that is a little earlier in a kick down for pasing, then depress the plunger and slide the cable click stop in towards the firewall a couple notches.

Is the choke connected to an electrical source? It will need to be on an ignition powered wire and the ground wire needs to go to one of the adjustment screws on the choke housing. The choke should actuate the choke butterfly closed on a cool morning and come completely open when the bakelite spring piece is warm. What I do, is get a cool day (or use carb cleaner spray to cool the choke housing) and loosen the three screws on the choke housing and turn the bakelite choke housing backwards (towards the firewall) to the lean direction unti it is not affecting the butterfly, then turn it forward (towards the radiator) until it actuates the butterfly just a little, then tighten the screws. Work from there and when the motor starts adjust the choke idle screw to a point where the truck is idling about 1500 to 1800 RPMs on the highest step of the idle cam (drivers side of carb under the linkage). Should be close.

[SSC's76]

Sounds like you have it all figured out. The TV cable bracket isnt really needed but as a precaution it's always nice to have. With a 1406 your going to want to start the idle mixture screws 1 to 1 1/2 turn out from the point you seat the screws. It's a nice base setting that works on 99% of engines but your may need to turn them in upto 1/2 a turn out for a stock cam'd 305 depedning on your altitude.

Piecesparts covers the choke adjustment well so follow his advise there. Edelbrocks will run from the factory with a super high idle so dont panic if it starts @ 2K before you make the proper adjustments. Edlebrock does have a downloadable PDF file for the owners manual on thier website that you can print.