Upper Ball Joints - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Bosstronix · 09-14-2002, 03:03 PM

Working on rebuilding a 72 K10 that I got a little over a year ago and have come to a problem. When working on the upper ball joints there is a threaded sleeve that is down in the knuckle that is smooth with the surface but has 4 divits in it like the nuts that hold the hub on. The new ball joint that I got gives the part number of C-4169 for the tool to remove and replace them, but nobody knows what kind of part number it is. I got the ball joint from NAPA. I need to get these out to get the upper ball joints out. Does anybody know what I am talking about? Where to get the tool? Or another way to get them out and get the new ones back in?

I am also going to replace the tie rod ends on this truck and have been looking around a prices and have found them for as much as $75 at NAPA and as cheep as $20 at LMC truck. Can any body tell me the difference between the qualities of these parts?

Thanks

HeavyK20 · 09-14-2002, 03:40 PM

Yes, I just did replaced my ball joints. I got the tool to remove the sleeves from CarQuest for about $20. It was an OTC brand but I don't have the part #.

The tie rod ends should range from $20 to $30. The $75 price may be for the long one that came on the 73 and up models, (on the 73 and up models the driver side tie rod end is the whole tie rod).

**JIMs70GMC** · 09-14-2002, 10:32 PM

Just did mine to, borrowed a socket from my neighbor that he modified(grind) to make work. Are you sure the ball joint will not come out with-out removing the threaded sleeve? Should be able to have the top nut off and the bottom almost off and a few good smacks the whole steering knuckle should come off. At least mine did, then the threaded sleeve comes out easy.

Bosstronix · 09-16-2002, 03:02 PM

Thanks guys I will give it a try and see what happens

powermad · 09-18-2002, 04:37 PM

Ball joint spanner wrench
As was stated you do not need to remove the adjusting sleeve to remove the ball joint .
But it will need to be torqued to 50 ft lbs when you install the new one.

Bosstronix · 09-26-2002, 07:44 PM

Thanks again. I got the tool and all went well!

Now on to the next project!

09-14-2002, 03:03 PM	#1
Bosstronix Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Duluth, MN Posts: 3	Upper Ball Joints Working on rebuilding a 72 K10 that I got a little over a year ago and have come to a problem. When working on the upper ball joints there is a threaded sleeve that is down in the knuckle that is smooth with the surface but has 4 divits in it like the nuts that hold the hub on. The new ball joint that I got gives the part number of C-4169 for the tool to remove and replace them, but nobody knows what kind of part number it is. I got the ball joint from NAPA. I need to get these out to get the upper ball joints out. Does anybody know what I am talking about? Where to get the tool? Or another way to get them out and get the new ones back in? I am also going to replace the tie rod ends on this truck and have been looking around a prices and have found them for as much as $75 at NAPA and as cheep as $20 at LMC truck. Can any body tell me the difference between the qualities of these parts? Thanks __________________ 1972 K10 350

09-14-2002, 03:40 PM	#2
HeavyK20 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: New Richmond, WI Posts: 547	Yes, I just did replaced my ball joints. I got the tool to remove the sleeves from CarQuest for about $20. It was an OTC brand but I don't have the part #. The tie rod ends should range from $20 to $30. The $75 price may be for the long one that came on the 73 and up models, (on the 73 and up models the driver side tie rod end is the whole tie rod). __________________ Eric 1969 K20, 465/205 package

09-14-2002, 10:32 PM	#3
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Just did mine to, borrowed a socket from my neighbor that he modified(grind) to make work. Are you sure the ball joint will not come out with-out removing the threaded sleeve? Should be able to have the top nut off and the bottom almost off and a few good smacks the whole steering knuckle should come off. At least mine did, then the threaded sleeve comes out easy. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

09-16-2002, 03:02 PM	#4
Bosstronix Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Duluth, MN Posts: 3	Thanks guys I will give it a try and see what happens __________________ 1972 K10 350

09-18-2002, 04:37 PM	#5
powermad Hillbilly Hotrod Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Oregon Posts: 69	Ball joint spanner wrench As was stated you do not need to remove the adjusting sleeve to remove the ball joint . But it will need to be torqued to 50 ft lbs when you install the new one. __________________ 69 K5, .060 over 350/465/205.

09-26-2002, 07:44 PM	#6
Bosstronix Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Duluth, MN Posts: 3	Thanks again. I got the tool and all went well! Now on to the next project! __________________ 1972 K10 350



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