Now spindles! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Nima · 03-26-2006, 07:57 PM

I meant Spindles! sorry.
First I have to say if this questions sound stupid to some of the experience members I am sorry. This is the first time I am tearing apart the brake and front end therefore every step is a learing curve for me. Thanks for your patience.
Ok, I tried to bypass the backing plates. I measured the existing tie rod lenght and then I removed the upper and lower ball joint nuts and tie rod. I had a jack under the lower a-arm and put some chain around the coil spring. When I brought the jack down nothing happened. I jacked it up, removed the chain from coil spring, brought lower a-arm down slowly but nothing happened, tried to hammered a little, nothing happened. I don't know how hard I have to hit or if I am missing another bolt/nut. Any help would appreciated.

72armyswbtruck · 03-26-2006, 08:06 PM

Isn't there a nut on the bottom of the a-arms that hold the coils on?
Anyone else have any ideas?

68 short step · 03-26-2006, 08:11 PM

what i do is loosen the lower ball joint nut almost all the way, turn the tire all the way to the outside ( so i can get a heman swing with a hammer), and hit the spindle where the lower ball joint goes through. let the spring help ya (dont chain it up) for added safety put a jack bout a inch below the lower ball joint. when it comes loose jack the jack up to remove the nut and spring. etc....

Nima · 03-26-2006, 08:27 PM

Ok, thanks. I am gona try it.

Bob Moore · 03-26-2006, 08:35 PM

Nima - I hope you weren't upset at my posting. I wasn't thinking you were doing anything wrong - I just thought you had a different plan going on that you needed that spindle separate from the backing plate.

As to your current problem put the chain back on. You probably won't need it but safe rather than sorry. Also put the nut part way on again(works as an additional safety stop. Use the jack just like you did and get a MANLY hammer as mentioned. If you are going to replace the ball joints use a pickle fork with the hammer to pop it loose. I like to do the bottom first and then the top. After the bottom is loose remove the spring and go after the top. Gravity also helps that way.

jay-dawg · 03-26-2006, 09:27 PM

hmmm. I wonder if craftsman carries a MANLY hammer. lol. just kidding. good luck and stay safe.

jay

Nima · 03-26-2006, 11:30 PM

Hey Bob, You didn't make me upset. I know what are my abilities and I always appreciate constructive inputs. No harm here. Anyways, those suckers didn't come up loose and I stopped for tonight. The top ball joints are free but it feels like the bottom one are fused to the spindles. I was even thinking to cut the threaded section of the ball joints are drill the rest. I'll see. For now I soaked them with penetrating oil for the night. Please don't hesitated to drop in you advise.
About that manly hammer, damn my hammer feels girly now!

jay-dawg · 03-27-2006, 02:14 AM

before you go and cut the threads, try using a pickle fork between the a-arm and the spindle. keep the castle nut on the lower ball joint so that it is unscrewed to where the top of the castle nut is even with the ball joint. the upper ball joint castle nut should be the same way. place a jack under the a-arm. chain the coil for safety and piece of mind. give the pickle fork a couple of whacks and the ball joint should come loose. After it gets loose, slowly lower the a-arm. Good luck.

Jay

Tx Firefighter · 03-27-2006, 06:12 AM

Sometimes they are very stubborn, but if you use a decent sized hammer, they will pop eventually. You have to hit them real hard. Give it everything you got.

jhendrix · 03-27-2006, 06:38 AM

68 short step is right. loosen the lower ball joint nut and give it a couple whacks. then slowly let the jack down and see if the spring will push the ball joint on out. as long as you go slow the spring shouldn't come flying out.

**VetteVet** · 03-27-2006, 06:32 PM

If you have a sway bar mounted to the lower control arm then you are probably going to have to take the bolt off that mounts it to the lower control arm before the arm will drop. It may come loose with a pickle fork but it will be much easier if you remove the bolt. That way you won't be working against the torsion of the sway bar. BE careful.

qksilver · 03-27-2006, 09:10 PM

Is the engine still in the truck? You will need that weight to be able to remove the ball joint nut and not have it pop, seen it a couple of times with cars

Nima · 03-27-2006, 09:48 PM

Yes engine is in the truck. Vettevet, Yes I do have sway bar and actually I was thinking if that affect this process. Thanks for bringing that up. I am still at work(6 PM

). I'll see what I can do when I get home. Thanks again.

incoma · 03-27-2006, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qksilver

Is the engine still in the truck? You will need that weight to be able to remove the ball joint nut and not have it pop, seen it a couple of times with cars

I removed my engine, cab, etc and then tried to disassemble the spindles/a-arms. What a mistake that was. I had to put my extra engine blocks on the cross member to give it some weight. Then I had to sit on it while my buddy jacked it up and hit the spindle with a hammer. What a mess.

Bob Moore · 03-27-2006, 11:33 PM

Nima - the shocks should also be removed from the lower control arm.

Stay with it - it will pop eventually - Bob

kevncar · 03-28-2006, 10:32 AM

Nima,
Take a look at the build thread for my 67.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=193961

I just did this last weekend and I've done it once on my chevelle also, so I'm no expert. My 67's lowers were being stubborn too. In the second picture of the second set of pics you can see where I was smacking the lower a-arm trying to get the ball joint to pop loose. Like everyone's said, they can be stubborn. But back the lower ball joint nut off till you have a little gap between the bottom of the nut and the top of the spindle. I was hittin on the front side for a while, then i turned the wheel the other way and hit the back side, and with one hit, it came loose. You may not hear it pop, but that little gap between the bottom of the nut and t.o. spindle will be gone.

then jack up the a-arm enough to get the nut off and slowly lower the jack. My a-arm binds up on the bottom of the backing plate for the drum brakes so I had to pop the top balljoint to get the spindle off the rest of the way. I just drove a pickle fork in from the top of the drum brake in towards the ball joint and it came loose real easy.

hope this helps

Nima · 03-28-2006, 12:00 PM

Thanks guys. I didn't get a chance last night, maybe tonight. I'll let you guys know. Thanks again for all the tips.

PanelDeland · 03-28-2006, 06:09 PM

Nima, you are probably using a 4 # hammer.Now all you need to do is hit it like it was a 20# sledge.

03-26-2006, 07:57 PM	#1
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,179	Now spindles! I meant Spindles! sorry. First I have to say if this questions sound stupid to some of the experience members I am sorry. This is the first time I am tearing apart the brake and front end therefore every step is a learing curve for me. Thanks for your patience. Ok, I tried to bypass the backing plates. I measured the existing tie rod lenght and then I removed the upper and lower ball joint nuts and tie rod. I had a jack under the lower a-arm and put some chain around the coil spring. When I brought the jack down nothing happened. I jacked it up, removed the chain from coil spring, brought lower a-arm down slowly but nothing happened, tried to hammered a little, nothing happened. I don't know how hard I have to hit or if I am missing another bolt/nut. Any help would appreciated. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner Last edited by Nima; 03-26-2006 at 07:58 PM.

03-26-2006, 08:06 PM	#2
72armyswbtruck Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,033	Re: Now apindles! Isn't there a nut on the bottom of the a-arms that hold the coils on? Anyone else have any ideas? __________________ "Remember, They can Kill You, but they can't eat You, That's against the law!!!!!!!!!"

03-26-2006, 08:11 PM	#3
68 short step Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: tulsa OK Posts: 3,070	Re: Now apindles! what i do is loosen the lower ball joint nut almost all the way, turn the tire all the way to the outside ( so i can get a heman swing with a hammer), and hit the spindle where the lower ball joint goes through. let the spring help ya (dont chain it up) for added safety put a jack bout a inch below the lower ball joint. when it comes loose jack the jack up to remove the nut and spring. etc....

03-26-2006, 08:27 PM	#4
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,179	Re: Now apindles! Ok, thanks. I am gona try it. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

03-26-2006, 08:35 PM	#5
Bob Moore Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 1,365	Re: Now apindles! Nima - I hope you weren't upset at my posting. I wasn't thinking you were doing anything wrong - I just thought you had a different plan going on that you needed that spindle separate from the backing plate. As to your current problem put the chain back on. You probably won't need it but safe rather than sorry. Also put the nut part way on again(works as an additional safety stop. Use the jack just like you did and get a MANLY hammer as mentioned. If you are going to replace the ball joints use a pickle fork with the hammer to pop it loose. I like to do the bottom first and then the top. After the bottom is loose remove the spring and go after the top. Gravity also helps that way. __________________ 67 C-20 LWB, tilt, speed alert, vac, 454, T400 67 C-10 SWB, factory air with more to follow

03-26-2006, 09:27 PM	#6
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	Re: Now apindles! hmmm. I wonder if craftsman carries a MANLY hammer. lol. just kidding. good luck and stay safe. jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI

03-26-2006, 11:30 PM	#7
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,179	Re: Now apindles! Hey Bob, You didn't make me upset. I know what are my abilities and I always appreciate constructive inputs. No harm here. Anyways, those suckers didn't come up loose and I stopped for tonight. The top ball joints are free but it feels like the bottom one are fused to the spindles. I was even thinking to cut the threaded section of the ball joints are drill the rest. I'll see. For now I soaked them with penetrating oil for the night. Please don't hesitated to drop in you advise. About that manly hammer, damn my hammer feels girly now! __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

03-27-2006, 02:14 AM	#8
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	Re: Now spindles! before you go and cut the threads, try using a pickle fork between the a-arm and the spindle. keep the castle nut on the lower ball joint so that it is unscrewed to where the top of the castle nut is even with the ball joint. the upper ball joint castle nut should be the same way. place a jack under the a-arm. chain the coil for safety and piece of mind. give the pickle fork a couple of whacks and the ball joint should come loose. After it gets loose, slowly lower the a-arm. Good luck. Jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI Last edited by jay-dawg; 03-27-2006 at 02:15 AM.

03-27-2006, 06:12 AM	#9
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Now spindles! Sometimes they are very stubborn, but if you use a decent sized hammer, they will pop eventually. You have to hit them real hard. Give it everything you got. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

03-27-2006, 06:38 AM	#10
jhendrix Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 1	Re: Now spindles! 68 short step is right. loosen the lower ball joint nut and give it a couple whacks. then slowly let the jack down and see if the spring will push the ball joint on out. as long as you go slow the spring shouldn't come flying out. __________________ Beware the lollipop of mediocrity... One lick and you suck for life.

03-27-2006, 06:32 PM	#11
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,718	Re: Now spindles! If you have a sway bar mounted to the lower control arm then you are probably going to have to take the bolt off that mounts it to the lower control arm before the arm will drop. It may come loose with a pickle fork but it will be much easier if you remove the bolt. That way you won't be working against the torsion of the sway bar. BE careful. __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

03-27-2006, 09:10 PM	#12
qksilver Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Southern Pines NC Posts: 3,853	Re: Now spindles! Is the engine still in the truck? You will need that weight to be able to remove the ball joint nut and not have it pop, seen it a couple of times with cars

03-27-2006, 09:48 PM	#13
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,179	Re: Now spindles! Yes engine is in the truck. Vettevet, Yes I do have sway bar and actually I was thinking if that affect this process. Thanks for bringing that up. I am still at work(6 PM ). I'll see what I can do when I get home. Thanks again. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

03-27-2006, 11:33 PM	#15
Bob Moore Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 1,365	Re: Now spindles! Nima - the shocks should also be removed from the lower control arm. Stay with it - it will pop eventually - Bob __________________ 67 C-20 LWB, tilt, speed alert, vac, 454, T400 67 C-10 SWB, factory air with more to follow

03-28-2006, 10:32 AM	#16
kevncar Active Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atwater, CA Posts: 259	Re: Now spindles! Nima, Take a look at the build thread for my 67. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=193961 I just did this last weekend and I've done it once on my chevelle also, so I'm no expert. My 67's lowers were being stubborn too. In the second picture of the second set of pics you can see where I was smacking the lower a-arm trying to get the ball joint to pop loose. Like everyone's said, they can be stubborn. But back the lower ball joint nut off till you have a little gap between the bottom of the nut and the top of the spindle. I was hittin on the front side for a while, then i turned the wheel the other way and hit the back side, and with one hit, it came loose. You may not hear it pop, but that little gap between the bottom of the nut and t.o. spindle will be gone. then jack up the a-arm enough to get the nut off and slowly lower the jack. My a-arm binds up on the bottom of the backing plate for the drum brakes so I had to pop the top balljoint to get the spindle off the rest of the way. I just drove a pickle fork in from the top of the drum brake in towards the ball joint and it came loose real easy. hope this helps __________________ Kevin 72 Chevelle 67 C10...454/TH400 Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=193961



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03-28-2006, 12:00 PM	#17
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,179	Re: Now spindles! Thanks guys. I didn't get a chance last night, maybe tonight. I'll let you guys know. Thanks again for all the tips. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

03-28-2006, 06:09 PM	#18
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Re: Now spindles! Nima, you are probably using a 4 # hammer.Now all you need to do is hit it like it was a 20# sledge. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

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