Hydroboost - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**dennislbrooks** · 10-05-2005, 08:53 PM

Not sure where this will all lead--- need to fabricate the rod to the pedal and adapt the 82 lines to the steering and gear. Also need to fabricate a "Y" for the low pressure return. May be all for not.

Bob Moore · 10-05-2005, 11:54 PM

What did you get that unit from? I have found several options for donors. I found a very clean(not abused) unit on a Chevy Astro van - about a 90 model. Another I found was a 83-87 Chev 1 ton. The 1ton looked beefier (maybe just the angle or the dirt). The 1 ton did not have a remote reservoir that I recall. The pump looked just like a small block pump with built in reservoir. The Astro van uses a remote reservoir with 2 connections - the hoses were missing so I don't know the routing.

There has been some discussion about a simple T fitting for the low pressure side rather than a Y. I think the T is just more readily available.

I am not sure on the rod. Are you going from manual brakes or power brakes? There has been some discussion about lining up the rod after eliminating the power brake linkage. Did you get a rod when you got the unit?

How did you adapt the unit to the firewall?

I have probably asked more questions than you did originally but I just want to learn what works.

Thanks - Bob

**dennislbrooks** · 10-06-2005, 07:03 AM

The unit came from an 82 Chev Impala diesel. From what I have found out, one hose from the pump high pressure to the Hydro (passenger side port) the other from the Hydro to the steering gear. Both the Hydro and the Steering gear low pressure back to the pump. I have lines from the 82 impala as donors. My steering gear is from a 76 impala on my 67. Worst case I goe to the hydraulic line shop to convert a fitting but I think all will hook up if the lines are long enough. It appears that the hydro casting are near the same but the adater plates may be different. I removed the big nut and replaced the plate. I had to enlarge the firewall hole about an 1/8 inch and shave the big nut some. I will send some pics when I get the linkage rod converted. Bendix made it a little tuff in that the rod is a crimp fit so machining will be done with the rod still attached. I do plan on a support from the top of the column shaft--existing 1/4 fine thread bolt -- to the hydro. As I understand you initially bleed the lines and all with the front wheels jacked up. Once I get it figured out. things need cleaned up and painted. My 79 booster hid some stuff. I will either procure or fabricate a "T" or a "Y". Since it is low pressure, a weld bead can be used for retention with a clamp. Yes I made the adapter plate out of 5/32" steel plate, put a key weld in the 1 5/8" hole. I have a ways to go yet. A short rod came with my unit. I will have to lengthen --hopefully mechanically.

**dennislbrooks** · 10-06-2005, 07:53 AM

The adapter plate is 5/32" -- 1/4" plate will work fine. Matt, on the 79 booster --drop the rod down on the brake arm as much as it will comfortably go - 1 to 2 inches. You will need to drill a 3/8 hole. This will give more travel and put the braking action closer to the top.

TP from Cntl PA · 10-06-2005, 08:00 AM

I put that same setup on my Cummins project................I sorta rigged it up. My main problem was finding what the heck fittings GM used on their pressurized hydraulic lines, I actually never did find out what the heck they were to buy new hose, and I didn't have access to a lathe to machine nice couplings, so I welded fittings together to test the setup.

I also couldn't get a pump with a larger reservoir to fit in the location I needed it too, so I used the stock pump and welded a pipe reducer on it for a threaded cap, and I put a another bung on the side which goes to an auxiliary tank I mounted on the core support for extra oil, and I drained the hydro-boost into it.

So far I am happy with it, they sure stop good! I plan on bending up some hard lines someday to replace all the hoses for a cleaner look.

Bob Moore · 10-06-2005, 12:45 PM

Dennis - How did you get the car steering gear to fit? I thought car boxes fit inside the frame while trucks fit outside. On the hoses - go to NAPA, Autozone, whatever you use and try the 79 Chev 1T with hydroboost hoses. The one I saw in the yard had the lines running on the top flange of the frame and were very compact.

**dennislbrooks** · 10-06-2005, 01:38 PM

The 82 impala lines are metal and rubber and are bent correctly to fit the hydroboost---looks good ---will send later pics. My power steering gear is a 1976 30 spline---I may be confused -- but will get the cardone number at home. Was wondering about a cooler --may not be needed for my use -- a coil metal line may do the trick --- may put in the return lines. TP above brought up a good point on fluid capacity. I will try to run from my existing pump mounted reservoir until I fail. I will hang the lines tonite and take a pic. I have a ways to go before completing this.

TP from Cntl PA · 10-06-2005, 05:39 PM

Also forgot to mention that I believe GM put an oil cooler on the system too. I didn't install one, and haven't had any trouble yet. I was hoping with the diesel I wouldn't have as much engine compartment heat and the extra capacity in the aux. tank would be ample to keep it cool.

**dennislbrooks** · 10-06-2005, 08:17 PM

I used a Cardone 27-7501 steering gear which has the correct spline for my 67. It appears the hoses from the 82 impala with a little massaging will work out fine. Fittings appear correct. Hose numbers:

Edelmann p/n's 71350, 71199, and 71608. more pics attached. All input is appreciated.

Bob Moore · 10-06-2005, 08:27 PM

Dennis - Do you have the 67 style power steering - ram assisted to the center link - with a manual gear box? If so then I am starting to get picture of your set-up. I was thinking you had the later style power steering box. Those hoses look quite good and not cluttered up.

Good job - Bob

**dennislbrooks** · 10-06-2005, 09:30 PM

Bob, no my power steering gear is a later style from a 76 C10 Chevy. The lines and 82 master cylinder are near bolt up. I have the return line to figure out yet.

Anybody---the hydroboost is higher than my reservoir --is this a problem?

TP from Cntl PA · 10-07-2005, 11:38 AM

Thanks for the hose #'s, I'll have to look into that to clean my mess up some

The reservoir lower than the booster didn't effect mine.

How did you plumb yours? Looks like the feed hoses are switched on mine? It still works though? I am confused, could you explain the routing, maybe mine is wrong.

**dennislbrooks** · 10-07-2005, 12:01 PM

TP-- I may be wrong also but it appears the hose #71199 goes from the passenger side port of the hydro to the high pressure pump --only one choice. The other fittinged hose goes from the hydro to the steering gear, The other line listed is just a return line that goes the same place as your return line now- I need a T. I will let you know if I get it correct----most books are vague. I figure only the return line volume will flow back to the reservoir when the engine is off. 8-)

TP from Cntl PA · 10-07-2005, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

TP-- I may be wrong also but it appears the hose #71199 goes from the passenger side port of the hydro to the high pressure pump --only one choice. The other fittinged hose goes from the hydro to the steering gear, The other line listed is just a return line that goes the same place as your return line now- I need a T. I will let you know if I get it correct----most books are vague. I figure only the return line volume will flow back to the reservoir when the engine is off. 8-)

I didn't have anything to go by either, Yukon Jack gave me some help. Basically all I had was the booster............the rest was made to work

Dean · 10-07-2005, 03:17 PM

I just bought a 87 K30 with this hydro boost. What exactly is it supposed to do? More braking power I assume?

**dennislbrooks** · 10-07-2005, 07:11 PM

From Brown County Ohio myself. Many say thet like the response better than a vacuum unit but I believe mainly they were used where there is a lack of vacuum like in a diesel. Hydro take up less space in the engine compartment also. Otherwise I dunno.

**dennislbrooks** · 10-08-2005, 09:39 AM

I punched one hole in the wheel well to keep from making a radical bend. The existing lines are still connected. The news lines are laying close. I am going to take some measurements for the booster rod to pedal for fabrication. I want to refrain from welding if possible --would rather have a sound mechanical connection to lengthen the rod. I may even thread the hydro rod. Looks like I need 4-5 " added.

It is easy to lose a post on this 67-72 forum. haha

**dennislbrooks** · 10-16-2005, 08:49 AM

I won't go back to vaccuum. Here are the final pics. Any questions please PM me. I did add a cooler just because it was easy before bleeding the system. Depending on the year of your power steering gear -- 2 fittings may have to be changed from metric O-ring to 3/8 IFF. Easily done.

ericguy320 · 04-06-2006, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

I won't go back to vaccuum. Here are the final pics. Any questions please PM me. I did add a cooler just because it was easy before bleeding the system. Depending on the year of your power steering gear -- 2 fittings may have to be changed from metric O-ring to 3/8 IFF. Easily done.

where did you get the rod end and bolt from?

**dennislbrooks** · 04-06-2006, 07:34 PM

The bolt is the stock - 67 ----maybe 65-72. If you use this oem shouldered bolt, the eyelet hole will need enlarged. The rod end came with the hydroboost -- I extended it to 8.5" from the firewall mount. Or you could use the oem existing rod to extend and leave it adjustable. I also suggest that you redrill the brake arm hole down toward the floor about 1/2" lower, this will give you more travel and brakes that are very close to the top. You could mark this new hole by measuring your new extended rod -- do not preload the hydroboost. Drilling is a lot easier with the brake arm removed --a good time is if you are doing column work sometime. If you error a bit, the bump stop can be trimmed. If you do not redrill the brake arm at all --braking will be fine---you lose an inch of pedal.

rudytj · 04-17-2006, 09:30 AM

after reading this thread the one question I have is..

is it OK to have the rod from the peddle to the booster at an angle? I have read elsewhere that it is not but then i am reading that people are having success lowering the rod as much as possible or lowering it 1/2 inch. I like the idea of lowering the rod because my fear in doing this is getting 'touchy" or "twitchy" brakes. lowering the rod should give more travel.

scott

**dennislbrooks** · 04-17-2006, 12:53 PM

you can test for any binding before you commit to a new hole. Lowering the hole means you will have brakes coming on as soon as you touch the pedal. And it takes a moment to get used to it. They come on as good as my 2004 yukon does.

10-05-2005, 08:53 PM	#1
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	Hydroboost Not sure where this will all lead--- need to fabricate the rod to the pedal and adapt the 82 lines to the steering and gear. Also need to fabricate a "Y" for the low pressure return. May be all for not. Attached Images

10-05-2005, 11:54 PM	#2
Bob Moore Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 1,365	What did you get that unit from? I have found several options for donors. I found a very clean(not abused) unit on a Chevy Astro van - about a 90 model. Another I found was a 83-87 Chev 1 ton. The 1ton looked beefier (maybe just the angle or the dirt). The 1 ton did not have a remote reservoir that I recall. The pump looked just like a small block pump with built in reservoir. The Astro van uses a remote reservoir with 2 connections - the hoses were missing so I don't know the routing. There has been some discussion about a simple T fitting for the low pressure side rather than a Y. I think the T is just more readily available. I am not sure on the rod. Are you going from manual brakes or power brakes? There has been some discussion about lining up the rod after eliminating the power brake linkage. Did you get a rod when you got the unit? How did you adapt the unit to the firewall? I have probably asked more questions than you did originally but I just want to learn what works. Thanks - Bob __________________ 67 C-20 LWB, tilt, speed alert, vac, 454, T400 67 C-10 SWB, factory air with more to follow Last edited by Bob Moore; 10-06-2005 at 12:04 AM.

10-06-2005, 07:03 AM	#3
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	The unit came from an 82 Chev Impala diesel. From what I have found out, one hose from the pump high pressure to the Hydro (passenger side port) the other from the Hydro to the steering gear. Both the Hydro and the Steering gear low pressure back to the pump. I have lines from the 82 impala as donors. My steering gear is from a 76 impala on my 67. Worst case I goe to the hydraulic line shop to convert a fitting but I think all will hook up if the lines are long enough. It appears that the hydro casting are near the same but the adater plates may be different. I removed the big nut and replaced the plate. I had to enlarge the firewall hole about an 1/8 inch and shave the big nut some. I will send some pics when I get the linkage rod converted. Bendix made it a little tuff in that the rod is a crimp fit so machining will be done with the rod still attached. I do plan on a support from the top of the column shaft--existing 1/4 fine thread bolt -- to the hydro. As I understand you initially bleed the lines and all with the front wheels jacked up. Once I get it figured out. things need cleaned up and painted. My 79 booster hid some stuff. I will either procure or fabricate a "T" or a "Y". Since it is low pressure, a weld bead can be used for retention with a clamp. Yes I made the adapter plate out of 5/32" steel plate, put a key weld in the 1 5/8" hole. I have a ways to go yet. A short rod came with my unit. I will have to lengthen --hopefully mechanically. Last edited by dennislbrooks; 10-06-2005 at 01:41 PM. Reason: correction

10-06-2005, 07:53 AM	#4
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	The adapter plate is 5/32" -- 1/4" plate will work fine. Matt, on the 79 booster --drop the rod down on the brake arm as much as it will comfortably go - 1 to 2 inches. You will need to drill a 3/8 hole. This will give more travel and put the braking action closer to the top. Last edited by dennislbrooks; 10-06-2005 at 09:04 AM. Reason: correction

10-06-2005, 08:00 AM	#5
TP from Cntl PA Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Central PA....In the Berg of Nisbet Posts: 790	I put that same setup on my Cummins project................I sorta rigged it up. My main problem was finding what the heck fittings GM used on their pressurized hydraulic lines, I actually never did find out what the heck they were to buy new hose, and I didn't have access to a lathe to machine nice couplings, so I welded fittings together to test the setup. I also couldn't get a pump with a larger reservoir to fit in the location I needed it too, so I used the stock pump and welded a pipe reducer on it for a threaded cap, and I put a another bung on the side which goes to an auxiliary tank I mounted on the core support for extra oil, and I drained the hydro-boost into it. So far I am happy with it, they sure stop good! I plan on bending up some hard lines someday to replace all the hoses for a cleaner look. __________________ '72 K-20 EFI'ed 250 Inline/4spd stake body, Farm Truck '71 C-20 Cummins Diesel Powered, In storage thanks to $5.00 diesel! '69 3500 GMC 305V-6/4spd, Still under reconstruction.......... Inlines Rule! 6 soldiers standing is better than 8 laying down!!!!!!!!

10-06-2005, 12:45 PM	#6
Bob Moore Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 1,365	Dennis - How did you get the car steering gear to fit? I thought car boxes fit inside the frame while trucks fit outside. On the hoses - go to NAPA, Autozone, whatever you use and try the 79 Chev 1T with hydroboost hoses. The one I saw in the yard had the lines running on the top flange of the frame and were very compact. __________________ 67 C-20 LWB, tilt, speed alert, vac, 454, T400 67 C-10 SWB, factory air with more to follow

10-06-2005, 01:38 PM	#7
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	The 82 impala lines are metal and rubber and are bent correctly to fit the hydroboost---looks good ---will send later pics. My power steering gear is a 1976 30 spline---I may be confused -- but will get the cardone number at home. Was wondering about a cooler --may not be needed for my use -- a coil metal line may do the trick --- may put in the return lines. TP above brought up a good point on fluid capacity. I will try to run from my existing pump mounted reservoir until I fail. I will hang the lines tonite and take a pic. I have a ways to go before completing this.

10-06-2005, 05:39 PM	#8
TP from Cntl PA Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Central PA....In the Berg of Nisbet Posts: 790	Also forgot to mention that I believe GM put an oil cooler on the system too. I didn't install one, and haven't had any trouble yet. I was hoping with the diesel I wouldn't have as much engine compartment heat and the extra capacity in the aux. tank would be ample to keep it cool. __________________ '72 K-20 EFI'ed 250 Inline/4spd stake body, Farm Truck '71 C-20 Cummins Diesel Powered, In storage thanks to $5.00 diesel! '69 3500 GMC 305V-6/4spd, Still under reconstruction.......... Inlines Rule! 6 soldiers standing is better than 8 laying down!!!!!!!!

10-06-2005, 08:17 PM	#9
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	76 Chevy C10 Steering Gear I used a Cardone 27-7501 steering gear which has the correct spline for my 67. It appears the hoses from the 82 impala with a little massaging will work out fine. Fittings appear correct. Hose numbers: Edelmann p/n's 71350, 71199, and 71608. more pics attached. All input is appreciated. Attached Images

10-06-2005, 08:27 PM	#10
Bob Moore Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 1,365	Dennis - Do you have the 67 style power steering - ram assisted to the center link - with a manual gear box? If so then I am starting to get picture of your set-up. I was thinking you had the later style power steering box. Those hoses look quite good and not cluttered up. Good job - Bob __________________ 67 C-20 LWB, tilt, speed alert, vac, 454, T400 67 C-10 SWB, factory air with more to follow

10-06-2005, 09:30 PM	#11
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	Quit for the nite - question ??? Bob, no my power steering gear is a later style from a 76 C10 Chevy. The lines and 82 master cylinder are near bolt up. I have the return line to figure out yet. Anybody---the hydroboost is higher than my reservoir --is this a problem? Attached Images

10-07-2005, 11:38 AM	#12
TP from Cntl PA Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Central PA....In the Berg of Nisbet Posts: 790	Thanks for the hose #'s, I'll have to look into that to clean my mess up some The reservoir lower than the booster didn't effect mine. How did you plumb yours? Looks like the feed hoses are switched on mine? It still works though? I am confused, could you explain the routing, maybe mine is wrong. __________________ '72 K-20 EFI'ed 250 Inline/4spd stake body, Farm Truck '71 C-20 Cummins Diesel Powered, In storage thanks to $5.00 diesel! '69 3500 GMC 305V-6/4spd, Still under reconstruction.......... Inlines Rule! 6 soldiers standing is better than 8 laying down!!!!!!!!

10-07-2005, 12:01 PM	#13
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	TP-- I may be wrong also but it appears the hose #71199 goes from the passenger side port of the hydro to the high pressure pump --only one choice. The other fittinged hose goes from the hydro to the steering gear, The other line listed is just a return line that goes the same place as your return line now- I need a T. I will let you know if I get it correct----most books are vague. I figure only the return line volume will flow back to the reservoir when the engine is off. 8-)

10-07-2005, 03:17 PM	#15
Dean Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 1,492	I just bought a 87 K30 with this hydro boost. What exactly is it supposed to do? More braking power I assume?

10-07-2005, 07:11 PM	#16
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	From Brown County Ohio myself. Many say thet like the response better than a vacuum unit but I believe mainly they were used where there is a lack of vacuum like in a diesel. Hydro take up less space in the engine compartment also. Otherwise I dunno.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

10-08-2005, 09:39 AM	#17
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	More pics -- 82 impala hoses I punched one hole in the wheel well to keep from making a radical bend. The existing lines are still connected. The news lines are laying close. I am going to take some measurements for the booster rod to pedal for fabrication. I want to refrain from welding if possible --would rather have a sound mechanical connection to lengthen the rod. I may even thread the hydro rod. Looks like I need 4-5 " added. It is easy to lose a post on this 67-72 forum. haha Attached Images

10-16-2005, 08:49 AM	#18
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	Re: Hydroboost - Am sure now - Fianl pics I won't go back to vaccuum. Here are the final pics. Any questions please PM me. I did add a cooler just because it was easy before bleeding the system. Depending on the year of your power steering gear -- 2 fittings may have to be changed from metric O-ring to 3/8 IFF. Easily done. Attached Images

04-06-2006, 07:34 PM	#20
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	Re: Hydroboost The bolt is the stock - 67 ----maybe 65-72. If you use this oem shouldered bolt, the eyelet hole will need enlarged. The rod end came with the hydroboost -- I extended it to 8.5" from the firewall mount. Or you could use the oem existing rod to extend and leave it adjustable. I also suggest that you redrill the brake arm hole down toward the floor about 1/2" lower, this will give you more travel and brakes that are very close to the top. You could mark this new hole by measuring your new extended rod -- do not preload the hydroboost. Drilling is a lot easier with the brake arm removed --a good time is if you are doing column work sometime. If you error a bit, the bump stop can be trimmed. If you do not redrill the brake arm at all --braking will be fine---you lose an inch of pedal. Attached Images

04-17-2006, 09:30 AM	#21
rudytj Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: pgh, pa Posts: 1	Re: Hydroboost after reading this thread the one question I have is.. is it OK to have the rod from the peddle to the booster at an angle? I have read elsewhere that it is not but then i am reading that people are having success lowering the rod as much as possible or lowering it 1/2 inch. I like the idea of lowering the rod because my fear in doing this is getting 'touchy" or "twitchy" brakes. lowering the rod should give more travel. scott

04-17-2006, 12:53 PM	#22
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	Re: Hydroboost you can test for any binding before you commit to a new hole. Lowering the hole means you will have brakes coming on as soon as you touch the pedal. And it takes a moment to get used to it. They come on as good as my 2004 yukon does.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.