Comp Cams, good or bad? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

neonlarry · 10-01-2002, 11:31 AM

I have heard from some people that they are really good, and from others that they are junk. I was going to buy one when I get my new engine, but now I am not sure. Any oppinions?

crazy longhorn · 10-01-2002, 12:12 PM

Im runnin an XE 268 in my 383, & have had no problems. The valve train is noisier than some , due to the fast ramps on the lobes & heavy springs.........but what the he!! its a high performance eng. The Q that I have been asked many times......does that have solids? i have got the same responce from many other guys runnin the XE series cams,but after a couple seasons you get used to the noise. crazy AL

nate68 · 10-01-2002, 12:26 PM

their designs are good but they use junk cores and a lot of them tend to be bad from the get go. i'm running one but i wouldnt buy another one.

DeepPurple · 10-01-2002, 01:18 PM

Generally the cams are fine and will work well. And honestly on a street machine they have better cam setups than crane does quite often. (Especially on roller, gotta love those rollers...drool,drool,drool...er...where was I? Oh yeah...)

The other advantage to the cams is the ones that are junk you find out about quite quickly as the lobes are gone almost instantly.
And if their cam toasts your engine just tell them and give them the receipts and (usually) they'll buy back most of your engine (friend had this problem, mighta helped though that he lived about 15 miles away)
Plus seemingly half the people at crane are pricks. (this is a personal observation)

In other words:
Quality = Crane
Design & Service = Comp Cams

neonlarry · 10-01-2002, 02:17 PM

So, if you get a bad one, you will know it right away? I have heard mostly good things about them, so maybe I will get one. I am thinking about the High Energy 268h.

bigjimzlll · 10-01-2002, 02:34 PM

I just got off the phone with comp...had a 270H go flat on my old 283..I called them b4 and they said tuff luck...they have changed personal and the way the opperate..the guy (red) was real nice and appologetic, he said send in the cam and lifters and he would replace them...I said forget it.wasn't worth the effort. the 268h I have now is OK..the next cam will most likly be a lunati or crower

junkyardjohn · 10-01-2002, 03:04 PM

I JUST HAD A COMP CAMS 280H GO FLAT IN MY 468. ATE THE LIFTERS,DESTROYED THE CAM. SO OUT COMES THE MOTOR, HOT TANK, ALL NEW BEARINGS. I'M JUST HOPING IT DIDN'T HURT MY CRANK & BORES WITH ALL THOUGHS LITTLE MICROSCOPIC PIECES OF CAM & LIFTER FLOATING AROUND ALL THROUGH MY OIL. NEEDLESS TO SAY .. I'M NOT A HAPPY PUPPY, & I THINK I'LL BE GETTING A DIFFERENT CAM MANUFACTURER IN THE NEAR FUTURE. .... MAYBE I'LL TRY AN ISKY OR SNIEDER

OH & I HAD 5200 MILES ON MY MOTOR. I ADJUSTED MY LIFTERS AT 3500 MILES, & NOTICED ONE OF MY LIFTERS WAS BLEEDING DOWN (ALSO COMP CAMS). AFTER ABOUT 2000 MILES ONE LIFTER WAS MAKING A SLIGHT TICKING, SO I PULLED OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD TO REPLACE ALL THE LIFTERS, & THAT WAS WHEN I FOUND THE DAMAGE. THIS CAM CREATED AN AWFUL LOT OF WORK & EXPENSE, & IF I WASN'T DOING ALL THE LABOR MYSELF, IT WOULD BE VERY VERY COSTLY. EERRRRRRRGGGGHHHHHHH

72step · 10-01-2002, 04:27 PM

I've had a Comp 280H in my truck for about 5 years with no problems knock on wood! Of course that engine has very low miles, probably below 5,000 considering it spent a lot of that time in the body shop, but they are hard miles because I drive it like I built it.

68 with 350 TPI · 10-01-2002, 04:33 PM

I have seen a few of the comp cams good bad myself.
I always get crane.

*Randy70C-10* · 10-01-2002, 04:35 PM

I've wiped out two of them in less than 1000 miles. The one I'm running now seems to be OK, but it only has 2500 miles on it.

guitarman · 10-01-2002, 04:36 PM

I run a Comp Cams roller in my big block with and ultra rev kit and have never had a problem. I used to run a 268 H with no problems. They make excellent products, lifters, springs, retainers, and in my opionion the very best and strongest rocker arms.

kaycee · 10-01-2002, 07:25 PM

I ran the 268H in my first 350 and was very pleased with it.Also got in my present 350 and it is holding together great.

nate68 · 10-02-2002, 02:13 AM

my first XE cam was bad from the start and i sent it back to summit and they sent me a new one with no problems.

JD72 · 10-02-2002, 01:37 PM

Just about everyone gets their cores from crane, it depends on the cam grinder and how it was ground. Crane is 90% CNC grinders very few are hand ground anymore. I worked at Reed for three years, we would straighten the cams before grinding, then check after rough grinding then one more after finished ground. I believe Reed is still in business, the owner John was killed about 4 years ago in a plane crash we had some good grinds. Believe it or not we would grind cams for certain companies and then stamp their name on the cam so you would think they ground it themselves. Who ever you buy from if you got access to a set of mics , mic each lobe and see how close they are to each other. Anything more than .003 difference I would send it back , we usually held .001- .0005 on the lobe heights. Good luck help you get one that works good.

JD72 · 10-02-2002, 01:39 PM

I believe competion and lunati are now owned by the same people.

72step · 10-02-2002, 01:48 PM

Are you guys with the cam problems doing the right procedures to set the cam upon startup. As I recall, when I first started it, I let it idle very fast for like 20 minutes, then let it cool down overnight before the next startup in order to set it correctly or something like that.

Chevyc10! · 10-02-2002, 01:55 PM

Another thing people forget...putting a new cam in a motor that has old valve springs. If you're springs are wore out, you'll eat up a new cam regardless of maker... My two cents.

Ackattack · 10-02-2002, 10:38 PM

I had a lobe wear off of the crane cam that was in my truck when I got it. I replaced it with an XE 268 and wore off aonther lobe (different cylinder though). I then replaced it with a HE 268 and haven't had any problems, and just replaced spriing. I also inspected the cam and lifters and no problems.

I was a little upset about the XE 268 going bad, but I still bought another Comp. Cam.

67 SS · 10-02-2002, 10:47 PM

Most companies say as soon as the engine fires up ,run between 1500and 2500 for 15-20 minutes.I bought a 270 Comp cam in high school ,put it in a 350 and ran the hell out of it.When that motor wore out,I pulled the cam out and put it in my wifes Camaro;also had a 350.It improved both alot and is still going strong in the Camaro.I'd buy another one.

*Shane* · 10-02-2002, 11:27 PM

Comp Cams also uses CNC Cam grinders....to be specific, OKUMA cam grinders. I know this because I work for the company that sold them to them.

*Zkast* · 10-03-2002, 08:28 AM

I'm also using the 280H with no problems thus far.

Could it be that Comp Cams are very popular therefore you find more folks with certain problems? Every cam grinder is going to have this problem... some more than others.

For instance, at the shop we see (on average) 8-9 chrysler mini-vans EVERY week. Does it mean they are junk? heck no, I own one myself. It just means there are a higher concentration of them out there.

WB72 · 10-04-2002, 11:31 AM

Lobe wear is almost always the failure due to inadequite lube, most likely Assemby Lube, that is important. I wonder, and I'm not critisising any of you, but, was the cam lubed well enough? This symptom would happen to all manufacturers of Cams.

Just a thought, Use ALL of the assembly lube supplied.

$ 0.02 USD or $ 0.03 in Canadian Money

Jesse 67 c-10 · 10-04-2002, 01:07 PM

I purchased a comp xe256 a while ago and havn't put it in yet, I will probably be doing so soon. Is the small squeeze pack of assembly lube they give you enough? should I get more and is there a good kind to get? Also, what's the best type of oil to run while breaking in a cam properly? use same oil after that initial break in and oil change? I personally don't have the money to tear down my engine if a lobe goes on me. another thing I've heard of is break in rockers with a 1.3 ratio or something, any good in these? any other tips for a good, fail safe cam instalation? I guess make sure the engine fires right away, run between 2000 and 3000 rpm? for 30 min, change the oil. now, It should just be reving at this time, no load so not driving it right? I would also guess that the rpms should fluctuate not just stay at a certain point? Hopefully my new rad and elec fans will keep it cool during this time. also when it first fires the timing will be off after droping the dist back in. should it be brought up to rpm asap after firing or could it idle a bit to set the timing? I spose I could bring it up right away and just turn to where it runs best. Long message but I'm just looking for some tips from people who have gone through this before. After hearing all these horror stories about comp cams I'm kind of worried about mine! Should be helpful to others too I hope.
Thanks!
Jesse

rin68 · 10-04-2002, 02:05 PM

Go Crower or Lunati, excellent stuff, it does cost a bit more but you get what you pay for. We primarily sell these two at work and never see any complaints, Crane is better than the Comp in my opinion. More people coming through the store talk about having problems with Comp more than anything else. Just because a company advertises the most (Comp) doesn't mean they're the best.

crazy longhorn · 10-04-2002, 05:13 PM

The first 20-30 minutes is critical on cam break in. It must be properly lubed.......spend the cash on a tube of lube,instead of hoping that the assembly packet is enough! I have run several different cams from different manufacturerswith no problems. I prefer the moly paste to coat the lobes,& put it on the cam lobes & bottoms of the lifters,also valve tips+ rocker balls. & prelube the engine with a modified dist & drill, till oil is coming out of all the rockers. You want the engine to fire up quick,then a quick check on the oil pressure & set the timing "close" by ear. then pull that engine right up around 2500,vary the rpms& let it run for 20-30 minutes. Grab a helper to watch the guages,& keep a garden hose handy.........if she warms up, spray the radiator down to cool it off. after the first 20- 30 minutes running, I change the oil filter,& add 1 quart. then after 50-60 miles I change the oil & filter. Try to stay out of the throttle for the first 150-200 mi, then change the oil & filter again ..........& go drop the "hammer",but not too hard! I like to seen about 1000 miles on a fresh engine before I get too mean with it. As far as break in rockers, They are good on a real stiff sprung set up, but not needed the street bound setups(110-120# on the seat,& 325-350# open). Good luck.......crazy AL

10-01-2002, 11:31 AM	#1
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,745	Comp Cams, good or bad? I have heard from some people that they are really good, and from others that they are junk. I was going to buy one when I get my new engine, but now I am not sure. Any oppinions? __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

10-01-2002, 12:26 PM	#3
nate68 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: ca Posts: 1,110	their designs are good but they use junk cores and a lot of them tend to be bad from the get go. i'm running one but i wouldnt buy another one. __________________ 68 short step, 406/700r4, 9" w/discs.

10-01-2002, 01:18 PM	#4
DeepPurple Real Deep... Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: St. Louis Posts: 116	Comp Cams Generally the cams are fine and will work well. And honestly on a street machine they have better cam setups than crane does quite often. (Especially on roller, gotta love those rollers...drool,drool,drool...er...where was I? Oh yeah...) The other advantage to the cams is the ones that are junk you find out about quite quickly as the lobes are gone almost instantly. And if their cam toasts your engine just tell them and give them the receipts and (usually) they'll buy back most of your engine (friend had this problem, mighta helped though that he lived about 15 miles away) Plus seemingly half the people at crane are pricks. (this is a personal observation) In other words: Quality = Crane Design & Service = Comp Cams __________________ 1970 GMC C10 (Deep Purple) 383/700-R4 Mass Modifications 1976 GMC K5 Jimmy (Big Blue) 400/TH350 Coming soon to a drive-in near you... We have done So Much with So Little for So Long.. We are now qualified to do Anything with Nothing.

10-01-2002, 02:17 PM	#5
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,745	So, if you get a bad one, you will know it right away? I have heard mostly good things about them, so maybe I will get one. I am thinking about the High Energy 268h. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

10-01-2002, 02:34 PM	#6
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	I just got off the phone with comp...had a 270H go flat on my old 283..I called them b4 and they said tuff luck...they have changed personal and the way the opperate..the guy (red) was real nice and appologetic, he said send in the cam and lifters and he would replace them...I said forget it.wasn't worth the effort. the 268h I have now is OK..the next cam will most likly be a lunati or crower __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

10-01-2002, 12:12 PM	#2
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	Im runnin an XE 268 in my 383, & have had no problems. The valve train is noisier than some , due to the fast ramps on the lobes & heavy springs.........but what the he!! its a high performance eng. The Q that I have been asked many times......does that have solids? i have got the same responce from many other guys runnin the XE series cams,but after a couple seasons you get used to the noise. crazy AL

10-01-2002, 03:04 PM	#7
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,425	I JUST HAD A COMP CAMS 280H GO FLAT IN MY 468. ATE THE LIFTERS,DESTROYED THE CAM. SO OUT COMES THE MOTOR, HOT TANK, ALL NEW BEARINGS. I'M JUST HOPING IT DIDN'T HURT MY CRANK & BORES WITH ALL THOUGHS LITTLE MICROSCOPIC PIECES OF CAM & LIFTER FLOATING AROUND ALL THROUGH MY OIL. NEEDLESS TO SAY .. I'M NOT A HAPPY PUPPY, & I THINK I'LL BE GETTING A DIFFERENT CAM MANUFACTURER IN THE NEAR FUTURE. .... MAYBE I'LL TRY AN ISKY OR SNIEDER OH & I HAD 5200 MILES ON MY MOTOR. I ADJUSTED MY LIFTERS AT 3500 MILES, & NOTICED ONE OF MY LIFTERS WAS BLEEDING DOWN (ALSO COMP CAMS). AFTER ABOUT 2000 MILES ONE LIFTER WAS MAKING A SLIGHT TICKING, SO I PULLED OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD TO REPLACE ALL THE LIFTERS, & THAT WAS WHEN I FOUND THE DAMAGE. THIS CAM CREATED AN AWFUL LOT OF WORK & EXPENSE, & IF I WASN'T DOING ALL THE LABOR MYSELF, IT WOULD BE VERY VERY COSTLY. EERRRRRRRGGGGHHHHHHH __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST Last edited by junkyardjohn; 10-01-2002 at 03:19 PM.

10-01-2002, 04:27 PM	#8
72step Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: chimayo, nm, usa Posts: 898	I've had a Comp 280H in my truck for about 5 years with no problems knock on wood! Of course that engine has very low miles, probably below 5,000 considering it spent a lot of that time in the body shop, but they are hard miles because I drive it like I built it. Last edited by 72step; 10-02-2002 at 01:46 PM.

10-01-2002, 04:33 PM	#9
68 with 350 TPI Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Wingate NC Posts: 456	I have seen a few of the comp cams good bad myself. I always get crane. __________________ Life is good with a 6-71 supercharged 355 in a 72 camaro

10-01-2002, 04:35 PM	#10
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	I've wiped out two of them in less than 1000 miles. The one I'm running now seems to be OK, but it only has 2500 miles on it.

10-01-2002, 04:36 PM	#11
guitarman Do it well or don't do it Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Georgia Posts: 457	I run a Comp Cams roller in my big block with and ultra rev kit and have never had a problem. I used to run a 268 H with no problems. They make excellent products, lifters, springs, retainers, and in my opionion the very best and strongest rocker arms. __________________ Try to be the person your dog thinks you are. Excellent paint and body site: http://www.autobody101.com/ Visit my Web Site http://home.attbi.com/~agfosteriii

10-01-2002, 07:25 PM	#12
kaycee Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Wyoming USA Posts: 2,449	I ran the 268H in my first 350 and was very pleased with it.Also got in my present 350 and it is holding together great. __________________ 2001 Silverado K-1500 2005 FXDWG stage3 69 CHEVY Short/Step 327/4L60 373 posi 63 IMPALA 327

10-02-2002, 02:13 AM	#13
nate68 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: ca Posts: 1,110	my first XE cam was bad from the start and i sent it back to summit and they sent me a new one with no problems. __________________ 68 short step, 406/700r4, 9" w/discs.

10-02-2002, 01:37 PM	#14
JD72 WTF Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: loganville, Ga. Posts: 118	Just about everyone gets their cores from crane, it depends on the cam grinder and how it was ground. Crane is 90% CNC grinders very few are hand ground anymore. I worked at Reed for three years, we would straighten the cams before grinding, then check after rough grinding then one more after finished ground. I believe Reed is still in business, the owner John was killed about 4 years ago in a plane crash we had some good grinds. Believe it or not we would grind cams for certain companies and then stamp their name on the cam so you would think they ground it themselves. Who ever you buy from if you got access to a set of mics , mic each lobe and see how close they are to each other. Anything more than .003 difference I would send it back , we usually held .001- .0005 on the lobe heights. Good luck help you get one that works good. __________________ Some people are wise, some people are otherwise. 72 cheyenne primer factory air lowered rallyes with flat caps flowmasters 12 bolt 3.73 350/350 combo needs rockers . Cowl hood installed. 81 Malibu wagon lowered with 17's bright ass yellow and v-6. 71 225 Electra all original 455/4 81 z28

10-02-2002, 01:39 PM	#15
JD72 WTF Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: loganville, Ga. Posts: 118	I believe competion and lunati are now owned by the same people. __________________ Some people are wise, some people are otherwise. 72 cheyenne primer factory air lowered rallyes with flat caps flowmasters 12 bolt 3.73 350/350 combo needs rockers . Cowl hood installed. 81 Malibu wagon lowered with 17's bright ass yellow and v-6. 71 225 Electra all original 455/4 81 z28



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10-02-2002, 01:48 PM	#16
72step Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: chimayo, nm, usa Posts: 898	Are you guys with the cam problems doing the right procedures to set the cam upon startup. As I recall, when I first started it, I let it idle very fast for like 20 minutes, then let it cool down overnight before the next startup in order to set it correctly or something like that.

10-02-2002, 01:55 PM	#17
Chevyc10! Registered User Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Centerville Ga. USA Posts: 804	Another thing people forget...putting a new cam in a motor that has old valve springs. If you're springs are wore out, you'll eat up a new cam regardless of maker... My two cents. __________________ 68 SWB The Surgeon General doesn't say anything about smoking a Ford!!! Would rather be ran over repeatedly by a Chevy than drive a Ford!!! Paralyzed from the neck up and confined to a hat! Kathleen, Georgia USA

10-02-2002, 10:38 PM	#18
Ackattack Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Valley Center KS Posts: 3,524	I had a lobe wear off of the crane cam that was in my truck when I got it. I replaced it with an XE 268 and wore off aonther lobe (different cylinder though). I then replaced it with a HE 268 and haven't had any problems, and just replaced spriing. I also inspected the cam and lifters and no problems. I was a little upset about the XE 268 going bad, but I still bought another Comp. Cam. __________________ Project Bruiser: 68 Pro-Touring C-10 5.3L / 4L60E Project Ironhide: 97 GMC Crew Cab 4x4 Cummins SOLD: '69 GMC 1/2T SWB TBI'd: Project No Buck Assembly Manual Index Sign up Thread!!! Factory Service Manual Index

10-02-2002, 10:47 PM	#19
67 SS Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NW ARKANSAS Posts: 258	Most companies say as soon as the engine fires up ,run between 1500and 2500 for 15-20 minutes.I bought a 270 Comp cam in high school ,put it in a 350 and ran the hell out of it.When that motor wore out,I pulled the cam out and put it in my wifes Camaro;also had a 350.It improved both alot and is still going strong in the Camaro.I'd buy another one.

10-02-2002, 11:27 PM	#20
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	Comp Cams also uses CNC Cam grinders....to be specific, OKUMA cam grinders. I know this because I work for the company that sold them to them.

10-03-2002, 08:28 AM	#21
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	I'm also using the 280H with no problems thus far. Could it be that Comp Cams are very popular therefore you find more folks with certain problems? Every cam grinder is going to have this problem... some more than others. For instance, at the shop we see (on average) 8-9 chrysler mini-vans EVERY week. Does it mean they are junk? heck no, I own one myself. It just means there are a higher concentration of them out there.

10-04-2002, 11:31 AM	#22
WB72 Before and After Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Leduc, Alberta CANADA Posts: 632	Lobe wear Lobe wear is almost always the failure due to inadequite lube, most likely Assemby Lube, that is important. I wonder, and I'm not critisising any of you, but, was the cam lubed well enough? This symptom would happen to all manufacturers of Cams. Just a thought, Use ALL of the assembly lube supplied. $ 0.02 USD or $ 0.03 in Canadian Money __________________ Not Grandpa's C-20 anymore... 383 Stroker 425HP, 485Ft/Lbs Lowered 3.5" Front / 5" Rear 66,000 miles. Alberta, CANADA

10-04-2002, 01:07 PM	#23
Jesse 67 c-10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Posts: 599	I purchased a comp xe256 a while ago and havn't put it in yet, I will probably be doing so soon. Is the small squeeze pack of assembly lube they give you enough? should I get more and is there a good kind to get? Also, what's the best type of oil to run while breaking in a cam properly? use same oil after that initial break in and oil change? I personally don't have the money to tear down my engine if a lobe goes on me. another thing I've heard of is break in rockers with a 1.3 ratio or something, any good in these? any other tips for a good, fail safe cam instalation? I guess make sure the engine fires right away, run between 2000 and 3000 rpm? for 30 min, change the oil. now, It should just be reving at this time, no load so not driving it right? I would also guess that the rpms should fluctuate not just stay at a certain point? Hopefully my new rad and elec fans will keep it cool during this time. also when it first fires the timing will be off after droping the dist back in. should it be brought up to rpm asap after firing or could it idle a bit to set the timing? I spose I could bring it up right away and just turn to where it runs best. Long message but I'm just looking for some tips from people who have gone through this before. After hearing all these horror stories about comp cams I'm kind of worried about mine! Should be helpful to others too I hope. Thanks! Jesse __________________ Edmonton, Alberta, 67 c-10, Long fleet, front disks, 5 lug rear end, 327 with Vortechs, edlbrock manifold, comp cams XE 256, 600cfm carb. Backed by a getrag 5 speed and 1 piece driveshaft. 1993 Dihatsu Hijet Jumbo cab 4x4, currently converting to battery electric power.

10-04-2002, 02:05 PM	#24
rin68 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: East Peoria, IL Posts: 600	Go Crower or Lunati, excellent stuff, it does cost a bit more but you get what you pay for. We primarily sell these two at work and never see any complaints, Crane is better than the Comp in my opinion. More people coming through the store talk about having problems with Comp more than anything else. Just because a company advertises the most (Comp) doesn't mean they're the best. __________________ 1968 C10 - 383, non-stop project 1969 Camaro - 327, bone stock family heirloom...soon to be LS/T56, Ridetech, all the goodies

10-04-2002, 05:13 PM	#25
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	The first 20-30 minutes is critical on cam break in. It must be properly lubed.......spend the cash on a tube of lube,instead of hoping that the assembly packet is enough! I have run several different cams from different manufacturerswith no problems. I prefer the moly paste to coat the lobes,& put it on the cam lobes & bottoms of the lifters,also valve tips+ rocker balls. & prelube the engine with a modified dist & drill, till oil is coming out of all the rockers. You want the engine to fire up quick,then a quick check on the oil pressure & set the timing "close" by ear. then pull that engine right up around 2500,vary the rpms& let it run for 20-30 minutes. Grab a helper to watch the guages,& keep a garden hose handy.........if she warms up, spray the radiator down to cool it off. after the first 20- 30 minutes running, I change the oil filter,& add 1 quart. then after 50-60 miles I change the oil & filter. Try to stay out of the throttle for the first 150-200 mi, then change the oil & filter again ..........& go drop the "hammer",but not too hard! I like to seen about 1000 miles on a fresh engine before I get too mean with it. As far as break in rockers, They are good on a real stiff sprung set up, but not needed the street bound setups(110-120# on the seat,& 325-350# open). Good luck.......crazy AL

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