Help with Prop shaft centre bearing - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Lippyp · 10-01-2002, 08:29 AM

I have a 67-½ ton long fleet and need to replace the prop shaft centre carrier bearing. I have been told that there are two sizes of bearing. Would these be dependant on original engine fitment (I6 vs V8), weight ( ½ ¾ or 1 ton) or do they vary randomly. It is currently fitted with a 350, and a TH350, but was originally a six, tranny is probably original.

Is there any way to tell what size bearing I have without dropping it as I can’t get a vernier gauge on it to measure it in place. If I have to drop the shaft and measure it how easy is it and how do I do it, I’ve never worked on a vehicle with auto transmission and it looks quite a different set-up to what I am used to on Manual British cars.

Thanks for the expected input

Yellow Cheyenne · 10-01-2002, 11:00 AM

There are 2 basic designs for the 1/2 ton carrier bearing. The first (and most likely the one you have) is bolted to the cross member with two bolts that are approximately an inch from each other, the bolts are oriented front to back, and the carrier bearing housing is tear drop shaped.

The second type is heavier duty and the bolts are about 6" apart and the bolts are oriented side to side, and the carrier bearing mount is half-moon shape. If it is the second type, you will also have a grease zerk where the slider is between the front and back drive shafts. Hope this helps more than it confuses.

**COBALT** · 10-01-2002, 01:45 PM

Yeah, it's actually VERY easy to determine which of the two you have. They are completely different in designs. You shouldn't have to measure anything. Just make a visible inspection, and head off to the parts store that's most reliable. I have the "teardrop" shaped bearing, and get mine at NAPA. Replaced it back in February with no problems since.

palallin · 10-01-2002, 05:40 PM

As for which truck has which bearing: I'm sure there is logic in the selection, but I've never been able to puzzle it out, possibly because of modifications done over the life of so many trucks.

Lippyp · 10-02-2002, 05:30 AM

Here is a picture of the bearing, seems to be the first type, mounting bolts fore and aft, hangs down on a stem like a teardrop.

Lippyp · 10-02-2002, 05:31 AM

and another view

Lippyp · 10-02-2002, 05:35 AM

and finally........(getting nearer 100 posts as well!)

Yellow Cheyenne · 10-02-2002, 09:23 AM

Yep, that is the first type that I described.

colohusker · 10-02-2002, 10:38 AM

Yep, that's the most common one. From experience, make sure that you look at the part at the store. Went to get one from NAPA, and I think I saw pretty much all the different styles before they found the right one.

First they brought out a U style that was about 6" across, the next one was about 8" across. Then they found a very strange one with mounts on the top and bottom, and then the right one.

Also I would recommend replacing the u-joints since you'll have the driveshaft out anyways.

Just my nickels worth...

Scott

useRc10 · 10-02-2002, 11:53 AM

just have them take out both and look tio see which one looks like yours....i work at trak auto and thats what i did for mine and any other of us that come in there...-Nick

Michael A. K. G · 10-02-2002, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by colohusker
Also I would recommend replacing the u-joints since you'll have the driveshaft out anyways.

Not only will you have the driveshaft out, you will also have the center U-joint popped out just to get access to the bolt that holds the center bearing in.

I rebuilt my driveshaft just a couple of days ago, on a '72 LWB with the same type of bearing you have.

The U-joints cost just over $10 apiece at Napa, and are greasable. I found that the rearmost one was completely rusted out (full of rust powder) on my truck, and the center bearing was seized.

Vince M · 10-02-2002, 09:44 PM

For those that didn't notice Lippy is located in England so I don't think a trip to the local NAPA store is going to work out. First clue was the spelling of the word centre...Being a Brit I noticed it right away. Good luck with the bearing anyway...

Lippyp · 10-03-2002, 04:22 AM

OK, I'll check with my parts supplier and get them to open the box. U Joints too, anything else I should change? What about the rear seal on the TH350, it appears to be weeping slightly. Is this simple to replace whilst the shaft is off? Anything else?

It is a little harder maintaining my truck over here in the UK, most service parts are available from stock at specialist suppliers, anything more unusual can take two to three weeks to get and obviously cost a lot more when you add shipping and taxes.

We've got a small but active band of American enthusiasts where I live, my 67 lwb fleet, an 82 Ford F150, an 80's Transam strip car running Nitrous and a beautiful 68 Impala with a 454 big block. We all help each other out when we can. Its a tough life but somebodies got to do it!

Thanks for all the advice so far!

palallin · 10-03-2002, 10:36 AM

Don't forget to index the shaft when you reassemble it.

Lippyp · 10-03-2002, 12:02 PM

When you say index the shaft do you mean balance it? Any opinion on the rear autobox seal?

palallin · 10-03-2002, 12:25 PM

By "index," I mean that the crosses all have to be in proper alignment (sounds faintly astrological, doesn't it?

). The easiest way to ensure that the original relationship/balance is maintained is to mark the two halves of the shaft before disassembly. Not reassembling them properly will result in redoing this job after just a couple thousand miles.

**COBALT** · 10-03-2002, 01:40 PM

I just sent you a PM...

JoetheMobster · 10-04-2002, 05:30 PM

I don't know about you guys but the first indication to me that Lippy was from the UK was the flag under his name! (er...wait...he just hit 100 posts...flag wasn't there before...uh, forget I mentioned it)

Anyway, I had to do the same job not too long ago Lippy! It sucked, pulling apart everything after 30 some years of abuse, and no maintenance! LOL.

Here's mine center bearing:

10-01-2002, 08:29 AM	#1
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	Help with Prop shaft centre bearing I have a 67-½ ton long fleet and need to replace the prop shaft centre carrier bearing. I have been told that there are two sizes of bearing. Would these be dependant on original engine fitment (I6 vs V8), weight ( ½ ¾ or 1 ton) or do they vary randomly. It is currently fitted with a 350, and a TH350, but was originally a six, tranny is probably original. Is there any way to tell what size bearing I have without dropping it as I can’t get a vernier gauge on it to measure it in place. If I have to drop the shaft and measure it how easy is it and how do I do it, I’ve never worked on a vehicle with auto transmission and it looks quite a different set-up to what I am used to on Manual British cars. Thanks for the expected input __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

10-01-2002, 11:00 AM	#2
Yellow Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eastern Kansas Posts: 488	There are 2 basic designs for the 1/2 ton carrier bearing. The first (and most likely the one you have) is bolted to the cross member with two bolts that are approximately an inch from each other, the bolts are oriented front to back, and the carrier bearing housing is tear drop shaped. The second type is heavier duty and the bolts are about 6" apart and the bolts are oriented side to side, and the carrier bearing mount is half-moon shape. If it is the second type, you will also have a grease zerk where the slider is between the front and back drive shafts. Hope this helps more than it confuses. __________________ '72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350

10-01-2002, 01:45 PM	#3
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Yeah, it's actually VERY easy to determine which of the two you have. They are completely different in designs. You shouldn't have to measure anything. Just make a visible inspection, and head off to the parts store that's most reliable. I have the "teardrop" shaped bearing, and get mine at NAPA. Replaced it back in February with no problems since. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-01-2002, 05:40 PM	#4
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,238	As for which truck has which bearing: I'm sure there is logic in the selection, but I've never been able to puzzle it out, possibly because of modifications done over the life of so many trucks. __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.

10-02-2002, 05:30 AM	#5
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	Here is a picture of the bearing, seems to be the first type, mounting bolts fore and aft, hangs down on a stem like a teardrop. Attached Images __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

10-02-2002, 05:31 AM	#6
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	and another view Attached Images __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

10-02-2002, 05:35 AM	#7
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	and finally........(getting nearer 100 posts as well!) Attached Images __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

10-02-2002, 09:23 AM	#8
Yellow Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eastern Kansas Posts: 488	Yep, that is the first type that I described. __________________ '72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350

10-02-2002, 10:38 AM	#9
colohusker Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 436	Yep, that's the most common one. From experience, make sure that you look at the part at the store. Went to get one from NAPA, and I think I saw pretty much all the different styles before they found the right one. First they brought out a U style that was about 6" across, the next one was about 8" across. Then they found a very strange one with mounts on the top and bottom, and then the right one. Also I would recommend replacing the u-joints since you'll have the driveshaft out anyways. Just my nickels worth... Scott __________________ ------------------------------------------------ I say it's only money, my wife says it's only a truck.... '71 C10 Deluxe, factory ac, ps, pb, should be done by 2102 Longmont, CO husker95@hotmail.com

10-02-2002, 11:53 AM	#10
useRc10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111 Posts: 1,138	just have them take out both and look tio see which one looks like yours....i work at trak auto and thats what i did for mine and any other of us that come in there...-Nick __________________ -'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda

10-02-2002, 09:44 PM	#12
Vince M Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,076	For those that didn't notice Lippy is located in England so I don't think a trip to the local NAPA store is going to work out. First clue was the spelling of the word centre...Being a Brit I noticed it right away. Good luck with the bearing anyway... __________________ ............................................................ 68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements.

10-03-2002, 04:22 AM	#13
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	OK, I'll check with my parts supplier and get them to open the box. U Joints too, anything else I should change? What about the rear seal on the TH350, it appears to be weeping slightly. Is this simple to replace whilst the shaft is off? Anything else? It is a little harder maintaining my truck over here in the UK, most service parts are available from stock at specialist suppliers, anything more unusual can take two to three weeks to get and obviously cost a lot more when you add shipping and taxes. We've got a small but active band of American enthusiasts where I live, my 67 lwb fleet, an 82 Ford F150, an 80's Transam strip car running Nitrous and a beautiful 68 Impala with a 454 big block. We all help each other out when we can. Its a tough life but somebodies got to do it! Thanks for all the advice so far! __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

10-03-2002, 10:36 AM	#14
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,238	Don't forget to index the shaft when you reassemble it. __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.

10-03-2002, 12:02 PM	#15
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	When you say index the shaft do you mean balance it? Any opinion on the rear autobox seal? __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

10-03-2002, 12:25 PM	#16
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,238	By "index," I mean that the crosses all have to be in proper alignment (sounds faintly astrological, doesn't it? ). The easiest way to ensure that the original relationship/balance is maintained is to mark the two halves of the shaft before disassembly. Not reassembling them properly will result in redoing this job after just a couple thousand miles. __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

10-03-2002, 01:40 PM	#17
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I just sent you a PM... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-04-2002, 05:30 PM	#18
JoetheMobster Listening since '86 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Canada Posts: 1,799	I don't know about you guys but the first indication to me that Lippy was from the UK was the flag under his name! (er...wait...he just hit 100 posts...flag wasn't there before...uh, forget I mentioned it) Anyway, I had to do the same job not too long ago Lippy! It sucked, pulling apart everything after 30 some years of abuse, and no maintenance! LOL. Here's mine center bearing: Attached Images __________________ 2007 Saturn Aura - hey it WAS a GM product

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.