shaved door handle questions

[AWEGS72]

Who all in here has shaved door handles. Any recommendations on Poundage for pull,or what brands to avoid. I know nothing about them and want to put them on my truck. Looking for words of wisdom from somebody who has installed them.

I just bought my rear roll pan from mar-k,and my clear lights all around from GMC PAUL's today. Can't wait to put them both on.

Thanks in advance,
Andy

[sleepyboy]

I want them also, but need advice. DO you need door poppers as well?

[shifty]

yes, you need door poppers.

most people here will tell you to use one of these two companies:

Suicide Doors: http://www.*****************/

Autoloc: http://www.autoloc.com

They will have complete kits you can buy. They also do a lot with airbags and suspension stuff. Most people I know use suicide doors.

If you want more info than anyone here can provide on the process, you are best to go to www.google.com and search for variations like shaved doors "hot rod" install and you'll get a lot of results like this:

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...199/index.html

[AWEGS72]

Think they come as complete kits. But I dont know which manufacturers are repautable or which are cheapo's.

[AWEGS72]

I almost bought one from Autoloc, but wanted to get some advice from boardmembers first.

[AesC10s]

ive herd nuttin but good things about autoloc

[49studebaker]

I have autoloc on my Studebaker, really mixed feelings about the whole thing. I'd do it again for a show truck, but not for a daily driver. My autoloc's are about eight years old now, I guess they have improved since then.

"At the heart of any shaved door handle system is the solenoid. If the solenoid you install doesn't have the power and durability to reliably open your latches on the first pull you will be stuck with endless headaches and burned out solenoids. Lesser quality shaved door kits might open your latches at first, but it only takes cold weather or a little rust or foreign material to make the poundage required to open your latches go way up. This can leave you stranded with burned out or damaged solenoids."

The quote above is from autoloc, everything they say about lesser quality kits are true, The one's I bought from them eight years ago did everything above. ( I guess they've learned from their own mistakes!) I was 500 miles from home in the Studebaker with nothing but smoke rolling out of the door and had to slide across the seat to get out. I've since then bought more powerful solenoids from them, and once again had trouble after awhile. I need even more powerful one's but I'm kinda short of cash while building my 71 GMC. I guess the message here is....think about what you will be doing with your truck. If it's an all weather, everyday driver, I'd think twice about it. The cables stretch, added friction makes a difference. I've noticed even new, high dollar cars don't use these. I think there's a reason. In my show truck, I just leave the window down when I can, and I have a manual override also, which I've used more than I'd like to admit. Installed right with minimal use, they are cool. I suspect autoloc has came a long ways in the last few years also. Just something for you guys to think about when making your decision.

[TugOwar]

Originally Posted by 49studebaker

I have autoloc on my Studebaker, really mixed feelings about the whole thing. I'd do it again for a show truck, but not for a daily driver. My autoloc's are about eight years old now, I guess they have improved since then.

"At the heart of any shaved door handle system is the solenoid. If the solenoid you install doesn't have the power and durability to reliably open your latches on the first pull you will be stuck with endless headaches and burned out solenoids. Lesser quality shaved door kits might open your latches at first, but it only takes cold weather or a little rust or foreign material to make the poundage required to open your latches go way up. This can leave you stranded with burned out or damaged solenoids."

The quote above is from autoloc, everything they say about lesser quality kits are true, The one's I bought from them eight years ago did everything above. ( I guess they've learned from their own mistakes!) I was 500 miles from home in the Studebaker with nothing but smoke rolling out of the door and had to slide across the seat to get out. I've since then bought more powerful solenoids from them, and once again had trouble after awhile. I need even more powerful one's but I'm kinda short of cash while building my 71 GMC. I guess the message here is....think about what you will be doing with your truck. If it's an all weather, everyday driver, I'd think twice about it. The cables stretch, added friction makes a difference. I've noticed even new, high dollar cars don't use these. I think there's a reason. In my show truck, I just leave the window down when I can, and I have a manual override also, which I've used more than I'd like to admit. Installed right with minimal use, they are cool. I suspect autoloc has came a long ways in the last few years also. Just something for you guys to think about when making your decision.

That is a good review man. Mind if I ask what power grade your solenoids are?
The article in Rod & Custom says that Autoloc has solenoids from 12 to 108 pounds, they used a 35 pound unit for their application. I'm thinking the 108 pound unit may well be enough to overcome the rust/dust/etc that a daily driver would accumulate over time.

And I may be imaginging this but I swear I read on ths forum way back where someone (TX_Firefighter?) adapted GM starter solenoids for use on truck doors. Am I crazy? Even if they only lasted a year replacing them would be cheap enough...

[Putter]

I used the rear glass hatch solenoid (with the small cable attahced) out of a mid-80's - mid-90's S-10 blazer on a past truck. Never had a problem...ever. And they are pretty cheap in the junkyard.

[49studebaker]

TUG, I believe back when I first got them, they came with 15 lb solenoids (they would of worked awesome in a 32 roadster with bearclaw latches,lighter doors!), I later upgraded to 35 lb., last year I was prepared to buy 50 pounders but got sidetracked financially. It was back a few years ago when autoloc first started making the statement about lesser quality. I have actually watched them make many improvements over the years.

"AutoLoc's Built in Relay Technology (B.I.R.T) insures quick & easy installation. Old and outdated shaved door handle kits required you to wire up external relays. These external relays increase the complexity of the installation and are prone for failure. Only AutoLoc offers B.I.R.T (built in relay)" Another quote from autoloc...this is what mine are now(external).

If I were using Bearclaw latches (less friction) and had lighter doors, I would have less problems but most of the 67-72 GM guys would most likely use the existing latches so they will be much like the Stude latches. This is why I will run stock handles on my GMC. I will admit, after looking at autoloc upgrades the past few years, I need to upgrade the entire system on my Stude. Like I earlier stated, all the negitive things they mention, have happened to my old autoloc system. I see they still sale 15 lb. solenoids, probably work great for some applications.

[Rokcrln]

I also have done shaved handles in the past and like stated above unless it is a full show car I would not do them again. Instead for a daily driver what I would check into are some of these new cars with painted flush mounted door handles. It still gives you a smooth look but is very convenient to use day by day. Also if you do want to shave yours I would recomend changing out your latch to a heavy duty bear claw latch first. Have fun and show us what you end up doing.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[TugOwar]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Instead for a daily driver what I would check into are some of these new cars with painted flush mounted door handles. It still gives you a smooth look but is very convenient to use day by day.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Now thats an idea, a good idea imo. Would be unique, smooth, practical.
I'm trying to envision where on the door skin you would mold that in though....

[TugOwar]

Originally Posted by Putter

I used the rear glass hatch solenoid (with the small cable attahced) out of a mid-80's - mid-90's S-10 blazer on a past truck. Never had a problem...ever. And they are pretty cheap in the junkyard.

There ya go! Reliable, cheap, easy to find.