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09-24-2002, 02:54 PM | #1 |
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Pictures of BACK of gauge and bezel??
Anyone out there have a gauge dash sitting around? Can you take some clear pictures of the back of the dash. I'm trying to get an idea of whether I can use a gauge dash and take out/rearrange the small gauges. And, while I'm asking, if anyone has a picture of the back of an empty bezel, I'd appreciate that as well.
Thanks in advance, Kenneth
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09-24-2002, 03:09 PM | #2 |
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09-24-2002, 03:27 PM | #3 |
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Yes, thanks. The article scans are helpful, but the pictures are really tough to make anything significant out... hence my request for clear pics.
Thanks again, Kenneth
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09-24-2002, 04:00 PM | #4 |
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I can hook ya up later today when Beer thirty comes around - I'll check back later tonight to see if you got hooked up.
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09-24-2002, 05:49 PM | #5 |
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Dunno if this is any clearer than what you have seen?
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09-24-2002, 05:51 PM | #6 |
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empty bezel
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09-24-2002, 06:39 PM | #7 |
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is it possible just to have the black plastic part to put after market gauges in? would the plastic be strong enough? or do you need the metal for strengh?
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09-24-2002, 07:04 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Kenneth
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09-24-2002, 07:38 PM | #9 |
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I am assuming you are talking about the oil pressure gauge and the empty spot unless you have a vaccum gauge whis is unlikely? No I don't see why removing these gauges would hurt anything? And to answer 71 shortsteps question, I have seen people install gauges in a bezel without the oil pressure gauge and battery gauge. I have a couple of complete gauge clusters with the gauges in them laying around if anyone really needs one.
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10-07-2002, 01:25 AM | #10 |
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I'm still brainstorming (or at least trying to ) about my gauge situation. Has anyone got a reallllllly clear shot of the back of an "idiot light" dash bezel? I'm tyring to get a sense of what it would take to machine an aluminum bezel that utilized the STOCK idiot light gauges.
And... anyone out there have a working set of idiot light gauges and bezel they want to git rid of (on the verrrrry cheap side, preferrably). Oh, and the bezel doesn't have to be the least bit pretty. I just need it to be basically intact so I can take measurements off the external edges, the 3 holes, and the various parts of the back where the gauges bolt up. What I might need to do to pull this off is machine a flat bezel and cut the gauge mount part off the plastic bezel and epoxy it to the aluminum. That'd give me the mounts fairly easily. Anyway, enough rambling. Must s l e e p ! Thanks, Kenneth
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10-07-2002, 09:28 AM | #11 |
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Here is a fairly clear photo of the back of my dash.
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10-07-2002, 09:29 AM | #12 |
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And one of the back of my old and new fuel gauges removed from the bezel.
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1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted) |
10-07-2002, 10:29 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Thanks again, Kenneth
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10-07-2002, 10:38 AM | #14 |
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Sorry, but those are the only two I have from when I had everything apart. Good luck.
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1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted) |
10-07-2002, 11:24 AM | #15 |
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Why not take your gauge cluster out and have a look-see for yourself?????
Also, why go thru all the trouble of fabricating an aluminum bezel for IDIOT light gauges??? Seems like a perfect time to upgrade.....
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10-07-2002, 12:01 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
As for the idiot light gauges, you assume that I want to "upgrade" to MORE gauges. I don't. I want 'minimalist' gauges, and am brainstorming for solutions to my specific needs. Thanks, Kenneth
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10-07-2002, 12:30 PM | #17 |
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Just curious...most people opt to have the gauges - they like to know what's going on with the motor, before something happens - for instance - idiot light will go on AFTER you lose oil pressure - as opposed to having a gauge where you are able to maybe see pressure readings that may clue you into something may be going south.... The gauge cluster has always been considered an upgrade, that is why I referred to it that way. Obviously, you don't consider it an upgrade, just clutter - everyone is entitled to their opinion...
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Rudy Fierros '95 Honda VFR750F Used to have a '71 Chevy Stepside, Guards Red, Lowered 4" rear, 3" front, White Oak bed wood, 700R4 w/373 gears until some low life stole it! |
10-07-2002, 01:35 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
Kenneth
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10-07-2002, 01:39 PM | #19 |
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Looks nice XXL. What are you going to do for heat/defrost/ac controls? Is there someplace else they can be hidden?
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1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted) |
10-07-2002, 01:51 PM | #20 |
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Nice work... it should look real nice, when you get it done.
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Rudy Fierros '95 Honda VFR750F Used to have a '71 Chevy Stepside, Guards Red, Lowered 4" rear, 3" front, White Oak bed wood, 700R4 w/373 gears until some low life stole it! |
10-07-2002, 01:53 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
The 'hiding' issues I have are still pretty big though. I've got to find a place for 2 dual-needle air gauges, 6 rocker switches (4 control the 4 corner air bags, 1 the compressors, and 1 a combined dump of all 4 bags at once), as well as the ignition switch, lights, wipers, etc. And... to make matters more difficult, I won't likely have a console because I'm planning on recovering the stock bench seat. I may do something understated overhead or I may do some hidden pop-out doors in the aluminum bezel I described above. I'm still brainstorming some of this stuff. Kenneth
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10-07-2002, 02:31 PM | #22 |
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At work I only have stone knives and bearskins, so here's a verrrrry bad hack of one dash bezel idea. The trapezoidal panels are intended to be doors that fold down. So when you look at the bezel you'd see them, but if you folded them down, you'd see some of the other stuff I need to hide-- switches, air gauges, etc. It may be too impractical for actual use though. Hmmm...
Kenneth
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10-07-2002, 03:04 PM | #23 |
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how about a vacuum actuated panel that will come down below the dash for the air guages and switches.
jay
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10-07-2002, 07:57 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
Thanks, Kenneth
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10-07-2002, 09:07 PM | #25 |
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XXL, is there any way you could use the glove box door idea on yours? By your design pic would the door be easy to modify?
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