hp? on rebuilding a 350

[outlawchevy]

i have a 350 4 bolt with 80000 miles on it it runs great no smoke . it is out of the truck and going to get freshed up what would i need to do to get 400hp out of it . should i buy new heads or have mine redone . any info would be great thanks all

[69face]

Originally Posted by outlawchevy

i have a 350 4 bolt with 80000 miles on it it runs great no smoke . it is out of the truck and going to get freshed up what would i need to do to get 400hp out of it . should i buy new heads or have mine redone . any info would be great thanks all

yeah you need new heads and a pretty bullet proof bottom end. afr makes a pretty good 200cc head that will help. scat has a pretty good crank and rod setup, and you need at least a 10:1 comp piston. little things free up hp like underdrive pulleys, electric water pumps, roller rockers, and a good breathing exhaust system(bigger isnt always better, so 4" on a small block is overkill.) you have a good platform as long as you have your block tested for cracks. 4 bolt is definitely the way to go. If you don't feellike forking over the cash for those afr heads. try to find a good set of vortec heads(casting 921 or 061).

[Jason915]

I don't feel that 400 HP would require a complete aftermarket high $ bottom end I have seen 2 bolt mains with stock rods cast cranks hold up just fine at that level of HP. I built an older cast 2 bolt using a cast crank stock rods with stud kits on the mains and rods trickflow heads a heafty solid cam single plane intake holley 750 the heads were unported and used I just matched the valve springs to the cam the compression was a conservative 9:8.1 so it ran on premium fuel. Never dynoed it but it was a easy 400+HP engine. Built it in 98 and it is still running in a friend of mines S-10 and he runs it hard.

[Jerry Jones]

400 hp S10, that must be a fun one!

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by Jason915

I don't feel that 400 HP would require a complete aftermarket high $ bottom end I have seen 2 bolt mains with stock rods cast cranks hold up just fine at that level of HP. I built an older cast 2 bolt using a cast crank stock rods with stud kits on the mains and rods trickflow heads a heafty solid cam single plane intake holley 750 the heads were unported and used I just matched the valve springs to the cam the compression was a conservative 9:8.1 so it ran on premium fuel. Never dynoed it but it was a easy 400+HP engine. Built it in 98 and it is still running in a friend of mines S-10 and he runs it hard.

NOBODY EVER UNDER ESTIMATES HOW MUCH HORSEPOWER THEIR ENGINE MAKES OR HOW FAST A POLICE DOG CAN RUN. JOHN

[Ackattack]

The bottom end really won't make you any horsepower. It will just make it live longer. Upping the compression will though.

It's going to be about heads, intake, carb, and cam....getting the air in and out.

Also, before you get carried away with hitting 400HP, think about how you drive and what you want out of it. Cause if it hits 400HP at 7000RPMs but is only making a peak torque of 300 at 4500rpms or so, you may be severely disapointed. If you choose the right components and hit 350HP at 5500 RPMS and are making 400ft lbs of torque at 2000 rpms, you would probably be A LOT happier. Peak horsepower numbers aren't the whole story.

Good luck.

[Jason915]

Originally Posted by junkyardjohn

NOBODY EVER UNDER ESTIMATES HOW MUCH HORSEPOWER THEIR ENGINE MAKES OR HOW FAST A POLICE DOG CAN RUN. JOHN

Now that is a good one I'll have to remember that. No dyno tests But I have time slips =it is an S-10 Blazer and it weighs about 3400# and it ran a 11.8@115 at Bandimere speedway

[Myself]

Your stock crank,rods,and related hardware are easily good to 400hp. If you want seat of the pants feel git-up-&-go build for torque and the horsepower will fall in line on it's own. Match everything up well, and you'll be pleased. I would say for 400 hp and 425+ ft. lbs. torque you'll need hyperuetectic flat-top pistons,bore matched, 64cc heads with 170cc intake runners and 2.02, 1.60 valves, with bowl cleanup and port matching, a cam with around .520 lift and 230 degrees duration, a high-rise intake, full roller rockers, 650-700cfm carb, a performance ignition system, good headers and free flowing exhaust. Oh yeah, and about $3500, if you put it together yourself.

[outlawchevy]

thanks everyone what do you think about 350 /.30 over block stock rods 292 comp cam / arf cast heads 200cc 202 / 160 valves / 64cc/ edelbrock torker 2 intake / holley 750 double pump mech. sec carb . with this set up what pistons should i run i want about 10.1 comp thanks for all the help

[Ole Blue 68]

What are you using the truck for? If you want a street truck, ditch the torker intake.

[outlawchevy]

what intake to use it matches the cam thats why i was going to use it thanks

[Daubs]

With all the $$$ you may have to put into that engine, you might be better off with one of these: (but some guys just love building their own...I do that with computers...not good enough with engines just yet)

HT383 Performance Crate Engine 12499101
Specially tuned for torque. The all new HT 383 delivers great truck power in a small block package for your truck or street rod. With its 3.80" stroke and Vortec cylinder heads the HT 383 makes awesome torque, down low where you need it for towing or four wheeling off road. Peak torque is 435 ft.lbs at 4000 rpm, but the HT 383 makes over 400 ft.lbs. from 2500 to 4000 rpm. Developed with a roller cam, special heavy duty forged powdered metal connecting rods, "4340" forged crankshaft and hypereutectic pistons the HT 383 is designed ot be worked. 340 horsepower at 4500 rpm doesn't hurt either. The HT 383 is an ideal replacement for any 1977 and older carbureted engine or off road application.

ZZ4 Crate Engine 350CI 355HP HO with Aluminum Heads 24502609
Imagine an aluminum head small block that makes 355 horsepower.
What if it had a steel roller camshaft, four bolt main block, undercut rolled fillet crankshaft, high silicon pistons and strong PM connecting rods? We imagined it, and then engineered, developed, tested and built it. The ZZ4 is the evolution of our popular ZZ series of small blocks that power thousands of street rods, hot street cars, circle track racers and drag racers. With over 400 ft.lbs. of torque, the ZZ4 is the best way to put an aluminum head, roller cam, high performance small block between your favorite fenders.

The aluminum angle plug cylinder heads have screw in rocker studs, 1.94" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves and 58cc combustion chambers that yield a crisp and responsive 10 to 1 compression ratio. Also included are our lightweight valve spring retainers that weigh half as much as our previous design. The valve seats are radiused and we've included valve stem seals to help keep the oil where it belongs.

To compliment the cylinder head design, we've incorporated a steel roller tappet camshaft with .474" intake and .510" exhaust valve lift. The combination makes 355 horsepower at 5250 rpm and has that great sounding muscle car idle, with just enough lope to let people know that this is no station wagon engine.

[wibilly]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Also, before you get carried away with hitting 400HP, think about how you drive and what you want out of it. Cause if it hits 400HP at 7000RPMs but is only making a peak torque of 300 at 4500rpms or so, you may be severely disapointed. If you choose the right components and hit 350HP at 5500 RPMS and are making 400ft lbs of torque at 2000 rpms, you would probably be A LOT happier. Peak horsepower numbers aren't the whole story.

what he said

[dirtball]

You might consider making it a 383 if the funds allow. The extra cubes will help generate better torque at lower RPM. This is a good thing in a heavy truck.

[E's c10swbfleet]

Hot rod mag does a budget build 383 strocker.under 1000$ and it made 400hp 441 torqe. it tells u step by step, they tried differnt cams heads intakes and carbs. thats what i am following on my build.

[junkyardjohn]

You Drive Torque, & Sell Horsepower. John

[PanelDeland]

daubs, you left out the fast burn 385.
I think for a street truck the torque will seem like a better deal both by feel and for the $$$.
The torque is what starts the truck rolling.The HP will push you down the track but only after the torque gets you moving.

[69face]

Originally Posted by outlawchevy

thanks everyone what do you think about 350 /.30 over block stock rods 292 comp cam / arf cast heads 200cc 202 / 160 valves / 64cc/ edelbrock torker 2 intake / holley 750 double pump mech. sec carb . with this set up what pistons should i run i want about 10.1 comp thanks for all the help

flattop hypereutectics

[JAKES 68GMC]

Originally Posted by E's c10swbfleet

Hot rod mag does a budget build 383 stroker.under 1000$ and it made 400hp 441 torque. it tells u step by step, they tried differnt cams heads intakes and carbs. thats what i am following on my build.

Any sources on that article? How long ago was the issue? ANYONE ELSE HAVE INFO ON THIS?????? It would be greatly appreciated.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by junkyardjohn

NOBODY EVER UNDER ESTIMATES...HOW FAST A POLICE DOG CAN RUN. JOHN

I did. Wanna see the teeth marks? :-D

[bigfredtn]

Forged pistons + forged rods + nitrous = 400hp.

[355]

All steel truck equals heavy, to get heavy movin means TORQUE. I was tryin to give you a hyperlink but I don,t have , wait I got it---http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html Anyway we can all talk HP/ Torque but dynos don't tell stories. Look thru all the combos find what you need. BUT be sure what you want the truck to do. A 69 hittin 7 grand on the street to get the HP is silly, you won't be able to haul a canoe in the back, with a cooler of beer. My 2 cents is build the torque the HP will follow. Steve

[Chevrolet4x4s]

If you are buying a new crank go with the 383 it is almost the same price so its like getting 33 free cid.
Shane