hardest part of a front axle install.... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

shelby987 · 06-10-2006, 11:17 PM

is getting it out of the back of the car. I think the pictures speak for themselves. God bless the station wagon, but I miss my truck, unfortunately having a busted front axle makes transporting an axle 100 miles in the bed of my truck out of the realm of possibilities.

If you look closely at the pictures you will see that I had to jack up the rear axle of the car to slide the legs of the cherry picker far enough forward to get to the center of the axle.....and dirt driveways are not condusive to easily moving a cherry pick with a corp. 10 bolt swinging from it.

On the upside, if all goes well, I will be back on the road with DISC brakes before the end of the weekend.

I do have a question though, do I need to turn these rotors, or can I burn off most of that rust driving around?

Rokcrln · 06-10-2006, 11:47 PM

You know what they say 6 of 1 and 1/2 a dozen of another!! You can pay to get then turned or just run it and they will clean right up but you may go thru a set of pads sooner? Nice job with the wagon!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

**Daubs** · 06-10-2006, 11:48 PM

Might as well get them turned while you are right there. I'd get em turned and put on new brake pads while you are at it.

shelby987 · 06-11-2006, 12:01 AM

you know, the last time I went to get my rotors turned it was $2 cheaper than buying new ones.....think I might just take my chances with running these as is, just looked up the prices, and its $24 a pop, and $15 to have them turned....I am sure there is a brake job in my future as a result.....but my truck has been off the road for far to long, and she needs to feel the pavement between her tread!

**truckdude239** · 06-11-2006, 08:08 AM

naw the rust will burn off and not really hurt the life of the pads it will make some noise for about maybe 100 miles when brakeing till it wares off

Southedisto · 06-11-2006, 08:11 AM

Nice pics, if there a will theres a way. I would run what you got, that rust will be gone soon enough.

Americanrider · 06-11-2006, 11:30 AM

Green scotch brite pads and a can of brake cleaner, get a head start on the heavy crust. What ratio are you changing to?

**PICKMUP** · 06-11-2006, 12:06 PM

Sand those rotors...it won't take any metal off---just rust!

JAKES 68GMC · 06-11-2006, 06:30 PM

Ditto. Wire-brush or sand them, and maybe put the steel wool to them if you want the rotors to shine. I wouldn't run them all rusty like that.

**Palf70Step** · 06-11-2006, 06:34 PM

If you haven't yet, don't forget you'll need to change the proportiong valve and should change the Master Cylinder with the change from drum to disc. Also I hope the gear ratio matches the rear or you'll have some fun times.

shelby987 · 06-11-2006, 09:38 PM

Got that covered already New MC and prop. valve.....didn't have time to buy the right lines, but I think I have cobbled together a fix using 4 or 5 different fittings, and I think I have a 1/2 ton prop. valve not a 3/4t judging from the pics. I have seen in another thread I have going.

I did come up with an issue though, I guess I thought that the corp 10 and dana 44 would use the same mounting hardware....WRONG.....the U-bolts for the dana are smaller (or the axle tubes for the corp 10 are bigger depending on how you look at it).
Can anyone tell me, is the size close enough where I can use the mounting plates once I get new U-bolts?

06-10-2006, 11:17 PM	#1
shelby987 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Just outside Durham, NC Posts: 894	hardest part of a front axle install.... is getting it out of the back of the car. I think the pictures speak for themselves. God bless the station wagon, but I miss my truck, unfortunately having a busted front axle makes transporting an axle 100 miles in the bed of my truck out of the realm of possibilities. If you look closely at the pictures you will see that I had to jack up the rear axle of the car to slide the legs of the cherry picker far enough forward to get to the center of the axle.....and dirt driveways are not condusive to easily moving a cherry pick with a corp. 10 bolt swinging from it. On the upside, if all goes well, I will be back on the road with DISC brakes before the end of the weekend. I do have a question though, do I need to turn these rotors, or can I burn off most of that rust driving around? Attached Images __________________ 1969 SS 350 Camaro Sold 2008 1970 3/4T K20, stock height with 33's, 250 I6, 3 on the tree, and locked front and rear 4.10's 1980 Chevy Malibu 2 dr Sold 2007 1993 Olds. Cutlass Ciera Wagon Traded 2006 2003 Saturn L200 w/5pd. D/D My list spans 5 decades with One common thread.....GM!

06-10-2006, 11:47 PM	#2
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... You know what they say 6 of 1 and 1/2 a dozen of another!! You can pay to get then turned or just run it and they will clean right up but you may go thru a set of pads sooner? Nice job with the wagon! Kevin LFD Inc.

06-10-2006, 11:48 PM	#3
Daubs Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Eastern Nebraska Posts: 611	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... Might as well get them turned while you are right there. I'd get em turned and put on new brake pads while you are at it. __________________ '72 Chevy K-20 Crate 350, SM465, 4.10's

06-11-2006, 12:01 AM	#4
shelby987 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Just outside Durham, NC Posts: 894	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... you know, the last time I went to get my rotors turned it was $2 cheaper than buying new ones.....think I might just take my chances with running these as is, just looked up the prices, and its $24 a pop, and $15 to have them turned....I am sure there is a brake job in my future as a result.....but my truck has been off the road for far to long, and she needs to feel the pavement between her tread! __________________ 1969 SS 350 Camaro Sold 2008 1970 3/4T K20, stock height with 33's, 250 I6, 3 on the tree, and locked front and rear 4.10's 1980 Chevy Malibu 2 dr Sold 2007 1993 Olds. Cutlass Ciera Wagon Traded 2006 2003 Saturn L200 w/5pd. D/D My list spans 5 decades with One common thread.....GM!

06-11-2006, 08:08 AM	#5
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,233	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... naw the rust will burn off and not really hurt the life of the pads it will make some noise for about maybe 100 miles when brakeing till it wares off __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

06-11-2006, 08:11 AM	#6
Southedisto River life...... Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Orangeburg SC Posts: 1,078	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... Nice pics, if there a will theres a way. I would run what you got, that rust will be gone soon enough. __________________ I like wheelin in Dixie!

06-11-2006, 11:30 AM	#7
Americanrider Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NW, WA. Posts: 1,421	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... Green scotch brite pads and a can of brake cleaner, get a head start on the heavy crust. What ratio are you changing to?

06-11-2006, 12:06 PM	#8
PICKMUP "Trucks with Class" Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA Posts: 8,126	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... Sand those rotors...it won't take any metal off---just rust!

06-11-2006, 06:30 PM	#9
JAKES 68GMC Aluminum slot wheels rule... Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Maine Posts: 6,212	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... Ditto. Wire-brush or sand them, and maybe put the steel wool to them if you want the rotors to shine. I wouldn't run them all rusty like that.

06-11-2006, 06:34 PM	#10
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 46,818	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... If you haven't yet, don't forget you'll need to change the proportiong valve and should change the Master Cylinder with the change from drum to disc. Also I hope the gear ratio matches the rear or you'll have some fun times. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

06-11-2006, 09:38 PM	#11
shelby987 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Just outside Durham, NC Posts: 894	Re: hardest part of a front axle install.... Got that covered already New MC and prop. valve.....didn't have time to buy the right lines, but I think I have cobbled together a fix using 4 or 5 different fittings, and I think I have a 1/2 ton prop. valve not a 3/4t judging from the pics. I have seen in another thread I have going. I did come up with an issue though, I guess I thought that the corp 10 and dana 44 would use the same mounting hardware....WRONG.....the U-bolts for the dana are smaller (or the axle tubes for the corp 10 are bigger depending on how you look at it). Can anyone tell me, is the size close enough where I can use the mounting plates once I get new U-bolts? __________________ 1969 SS 350 Camaro Sold 2008 1970 3/4T K20, stock height with 33's, 250 I6, 3 on the tree, and locked front and rear 4.10's 1980 Chevy Malibu 2 dr Sold 2007 1993 Olds. Cutlass Ciera Wagon Traded 2006 2003 Saturn L200 w/5pd. D/D My list spans 5 decades with One common thread.....GM!



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