Big Block Swap How-To - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*FormerMember* · 06-08-2006, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kansas city cheyenne

So nobody makes these towers anymore? You can't buy aftermarket ones or anything? I really didn't know that they were so hard to get ahold of. What kind of cash does it take to buy a set?

I have a set for sale in the for sale section...

I am going with an aftermarket crossmember and suspension.

69-350 · 06-08-2006, 11:58 PM

so basically, what the cheapest/easiest thing to do for mounting the beast is to convert it to a 73-up mounts? as for the crossmembers, will a 73-up crossmember just bolt right up in there? Or will it be easier to set the mounts up, and drill into the 69's crossmember? Or will the 69 crossmember bolt right up to the 73+ mounts?

68racer · 06-09-2006, 04:41 PM

I put a 502 onto the I6 mounts last year. To do this the cab has to be cut on the drivers side to clear the valve cover. The passenger side is tight and may need a hole if you have larger valve covers. I had to modify the drivers side stand heavily to clear the headers, the passenger side had a little clearancing. The distributor is tight but just fits. To strengthen the mounts I used poly corvette thru style mounts and dilled a length ways hole through the stand. The stand had to be clearanced for the tabs on the mount and reinforced afterwards with angle. This looks stock if you don't know. I also used a 12mm bolt which gives a very tight fit in the mount and stops the engine moving. I drag the truck so I want all the engine set back I can get so to me this is worth all the effort. If anyone wants pics of the stands or the engine let me know.
Neil
P.S. I have stock BB stands but I'm too far away!

kansas city cheyenne · 06-09-2006, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68racer

I put a 502 onto the I6 mounts last year. To do this the cab has to be cut on the drivers side to clear the valve cover. The passenger side is tight and may need a hole if you have larger valve covers. I had to modify the drivers side stand heavily to clear the headers, the passenger side had a little clearancing. The distributor is tight but just fits. To strengthen the mounts I used poly corvette thru style mounts and dilled a length ways hole through the stand. The stand had to be clearanced for the tabs on the mount and reinforced afterwards with angle. This looks stock if you don't know. I also used a 12mm bolt which gives a very tight fit in the mount and stops the engine moving. I drag the truck so I want all the engine set back I can get so to me this is worth all the effort. If anyone wants pics of the stands or the engine let me know.
Neil
P.S. I have stock BB stands but I'm too far away!

I would love to see pics. I didn't realize that going from a sb to a bb was such a pain in the ass.

69-350 · 06-10-2006, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kansas city cheyenne

I would love to see pics. I didn't realize that going from a sb to a bb was such a pain in the ass.

well, I'm not sure it's such a pain in the ass.... maybe a little crap sometimes... but depending on what you're doing it for... it can all be well worth it.

kevncar · 06-10-2006, 02:46 AM

This is most likely more expensive than the 73 and up towers and mounts, but I think it would be cheaper than the stock BB mounts. They can be had at performanceonline.com for about $130 rubber or $190 poly.

68racer · 06-10-2006, 05:49 PM

e-mail me for pics at lalouette@waitrose.com as I can't do difficult 'puter stuff. My stands are a cheaper version of the performanceonline stands.

69-350 · 06-11-2006, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68racer

e-mail me for pics at lalouette@waitrose.com as I can't do difficult 'puter stuff. My stands are a cheaper version of the performanceonline stands.

alright, will do. thanks.

kelsfine69 · 06-11-2006, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevncar

This is most likely more expensive than the 73 and up towers and mounts, but I think it would be cheaper than the stock BB mounts. They can be had at performanceonline.com for about $130 rubber or $190 poly.

Does anyone have pics of these installed and how they fit?

69-350 · 06-12-2006, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelsfine69

Does anyone have pics of these installed and how they fit?

I second that request... seems like I just need to figure out mounts now...

70rs/ss · 06-12-2006, 02:21 PM

Those mounts can be built for probably $50. I say order a set, get dimentions and send em back and build em yourself. A piece of pipe, plate, and away we go!!.

06-08-2006, 11:58 PM	#27
69-350 Oil trash and damn proud of it Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Williston, ND Posts: 1,993	Re: Big Block Swap How-To so basically, what the cheapest/easiest thing to do for mounting the beast is to convert it to a 73-up mounts? as for the crossmembers, will a 73-up crossmember just bolt right up in there? Or will it be easier to set the mounts up, and drill into the 69's crossmember? Or will the 69 crossmember bolt right up to the 73+ mounts? __________________ Mark 1997 K1500 Z71, 14 bolt SF 3.73 posi, Bright Blue Metallic. 6" Superlift 1972 C-10, toolbox, p/s, 350/TH350/3.73 open, black int., bronze 2008 Dodge MegaCab. H&S tuned 6.7 Cummins. Fast Four Tons Some of my pics http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m294/69-350/

06-09-2006, 04:41 PM	#28
68racer Yeah baby! Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 436	Re: Big Block Swap How-To I put a 502 onto the I6 mounts last year. To do this the cab has to be cut on the drivers side to clear the valve cover. The passenger side is tight and may need a hole if you have larger valve covers. I had to modify the drivers side stand heavily to clear the headers, the passenger side had a little clearancing. The distributor is tight but just fits. To strengthen the mounts I used poly corvette thru style mounts and dilled a length ways hole through the stand. The stand had to be clearanced for the tabs on the mount and reinforced afterwards with angle. This looks stock if you don't know. I also used a 12mm bolt which gives a very tight fit in the mount and stops the engine moving. I drag the truck so I want all the engine set back I can get so to me this is worth all the effort. If anyone wants pics of the stands or the engine let me know. Neil P.S. I have stock BB stands but I'm too far away! __________________ 11.37 @116

06-10-2006, 02:46 AM	#31
kevncar Active Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atwater, CA Posts: 259	Re: Big Block Swap How-To This is most likely more expensive than the 73 and up towers and mounts, but I think it would be cheaper than the stock BB mounts. They can be had at performanceonline.com for about $130 rubber or $190 poly. __________________ Kevin 72 Chevelle 67 C10...454/TH400 Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=193961

06-10-2006, 05:49 PM	#32
68racer Yeah baby! Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 436	Re: Big Block Swap How-To e-mail me for pics at lalouette@waitrose.com as I can't do difficult 'puter stuff. My stands are a cheaper version of the performanceonline stands. __________________ 11.37 @116

06-12-2006, 02:21 PM	#36
70rs/ss Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Northern AZ Posts: 7,271	Re: Big Block Swap How-To Those mounts can be built for probably $50. I say order a set, get dimentions and send em back and build em yourself. A piece of pipe, plate, and away we go!!.



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