Bass ackwards booster Q... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Longhorn Man · 07-08-2006, 09:10 PM

OK, I've never really followed along on all the 'how do i install a booster' threads, and after a search, I know nothing more than I did 10 min ago. (Does anyone have good luck with the search, I NEVER get what i am looking for, even if I put in the actual name of the thread)
Anyways, I have power brakes, and a messed up booster. I'm sick of getting used ones that are either blown from the get go, or blow out a few months later. (Always a bad sign when you get one and pour the brake fluid out of it on the floor when you unpack it.) And if you've priced a new one.... screw that. It blows the Mc Budget.
So, what does it take to get rid of the stupid thing all together? I know the master cylinder has the same part number for power, and non power... So I'm good there.
Am I able to flex and manuver the brake lines enough to do it, or will i be getting out my brake line kinker?
What else is there. I remember something about mocing the rod on the pedal, can this be done with the parts that are on my truck right now?

I've had a truck with manual brakes, and IMO, it wasn't all that bad. I was able to flat spot the tires at will, and there was no "ugly booster" to look at. Plus, never had any booster issues with that one either...for obviouse reasons.

Don't try and sell me a booster, onless it is a remaned unit that you got 2 years ago, has no fluid in it, and are willing to part with it for 50 bucks.

Didn't think so.

So, what's the steps, and do I need any parts to remove this worthles option.

TugOwar · 07-08-2006, 09:24 PM

I seldom get what I need from the search either Andy.

I drove my 66 1/2 ton all over hell and creation for 12 years with manual brakes. I like my power brakes but I get what you're sayin, they're not absolutely necessary.

I can't help with the conversion question but I think we (the board) should put our heads together and figure out how to rebuild boosters ourselves. There can't be that much to them.

Sweet72 · 07-08-2006, 09:25 PM

I'm almost positive you'll need a different pushrod. I was able to make my non pwr lines work with the booster installed, but they were a bit shorter than I would like em, so going the other way you should have plenty of line to work with. Yea, the used boosters really blow! I had two go out in a years time.

Longhorn Man · 07-08-2006, 09:28 PM

I'm on #3, and it hasn't even been on the road for a year.
Hmmm, a new push rod.
I'm guessing they are a dime a dozen on the parts board, with everyone installing boosters...
Would the one ton use the same one as the 1/2 ton?

Sweet72 · 07-08-2006, 09:31 PM

Good idea Tug O War. I have a '72 overhaul manual that outlines a step by step rebuild if you have all the fancy GM "J" tools, but I could make them since they're pretty simple tools. I looked on the web for a source for the diaphrams with no luck.

TugOwar · 07-08-2006, 10:03 PM

Maybe I'll talk to my parts guy at Gonzalez and see if he can find a source.

Sam, maybe if you have the time and means you could scan and post the pages from that manual.

mister.freeze · 07-08-2006, 10:12 PM

I chunked it all and went with hydroboost. It really wasn't too tough. I think I used a '96 3/4 ton setup from the local parts store. I can help if you go this route.

Longhorn Man · 07-08-2006, 10:19 PM

that kinda goes against the whole $50 Mc Budget thing.
Honestly, I have never driven a Hydroboost where I liked the pedal feel. That's also one of the problems I've always had with power brakes too, the 'feel' is gone.

*72CSTC5* · 07-09-2006, 02:53 AM

Nuts driving with non power brakes. Like everything else, as time progresses so does technology. Dont be lazy and install the power brakes to your ride.

pritch · 07-09-2006, 02:57 AM

Seems like you need a longer pushrod to convert from non-power to power, maybe you could just shorten the PB pushrod...Or maybe we could trade, I'm converting to PB in a couple months.

krue · 07-09-2006, 05:16 AM

The manual pushrod is rounded on the end that goes into the m/c. The power pushrod has an eye on either end. They are both adjustable IIRC.

70GMCer · 07-09-2006, 07:41 AM

does this help?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=163387

Solver · 07-09-2006, 08:16 AM

Andy the last 2 boosters I got from oreilly's were $89 for just the booster and $99 for booster and new master cylinder. Might want to check that out before you drop anymore change on a questionable used booster!

Longhorn Man · 07-09-2006, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5

Dont be lazy and install the power brakes to your ride.

Lazy has nothing to do with it, lazy would just replace the booster instead of swapping to manual. It would be quicker and easier, to simply swap the booster out than to convert to manual brakes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pritch

...Or maybe we could trade, I'm converting to PB in a couple months.

I would love to swap, and to help you out as you are helping me... but this is my daily driver (only vehicle)... I can't have it down for a couple days waiting on the mail man to bring the the rod.

Krue, good info.

70GMCer, awsome link. Step by step, awsome.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solver

Andy the last 2 boosters I got from oreilly's were $89 for just the booster and $99 for booster and new master cylinder. Might want to check that out before you drop anymore change on a questionable used booster!

Interesting.
Now, it has been a couple years, but, last time I checked, they wasnted more like 180 for the booster I needed. I'm wondering if the daul diafram, drum drum, is that much more than the 1/2 ton disk/drum parts. I guess I need to look around. I honestly haven't bothered since I got sticker shock a few years ago.

da-burb · 07-09-2006, 11:32 AM

Less than 2 years ago a rebuilt dual diaphram booster from NAPA was $85. The core charge was $2. NAPA also had the booster rebuild kits. I was looking for the rubber boot on the back of the booster and that was the only place I could find that boot, it wasn't sold seperately.

glock35ipsc · 07-09-2006, 11:55 AM

Andy - PM me your address. I have a non-power rod that I will send you. I don't need it.

Should be able to armstrong the brake lines. I wonder about the proportioning valve? Will you need to replace it with a manual brake distribution block, or whatever they are called for manual brakes?

neonlarry · 07-09-2006, 12:40 PM

P-Valve is the same

Sweet72 · 07-09-2006, 03:30 PM

Tug O War, I don't have access to a scanner. I checked napaonline for the 3/4 ton dual diaphram is $119 and $28 core charge. Couldn't find any rebuild parts on the site... Sorry for jacking your thread Andy.

wibilly · 07-09-2006, 03:45 PM

personaly i don't want any vehicle without power brakes. i guess i've gotten so used to them that without it seems like no brakes to me

TugOwar · 07-09-2006, 04:01 PM

Yes Andy, sorry bout that bro.

Longhorn Man · 07-09-2006, 06:53 PM

Don't mention it... you guys are keeping it on track. If you came up with the stuff to fix it... I'd jump on your band wagon in a heartbeat. I like the low pedal, the lazy man pedal pressures... just refuse to buy another used booster, and can't afford (or won't afford anyways) a new one.
Your thread jacking is better than some of the other responses... saying I'm lazy and technology has advanced...I guess I may as well install day time driving lights, air bags, and ABS...along with a million warning stickers.

Glock... PM is on the way... This is very much apreciated. I will swap over to non power brakes, and later on down the road when i have the money to spare... or I can budget it into my life, I'll get a new one.

07-08-2006, 09:10 PM	#1
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Bass ackwards booster Q... OK, I've never really followed along on all the 'how do i install a booster' threads, and after a search, I know nothing more than I did 10 min ago. (Does anyone have good luck with the search, I NEVER get what i am looking for, even if I put in the actual name of the thread) Anyways, I have power brakes, and a messed up booster. I'm sick of getting used ones that are either blown from the get go, or blow out a few months later. (Always a bad sign when you get one and pour the brake fluid out of it on the floor when you unpack it.) And if you've priced a new one.... screw that. It blows the Mc Budget. So, what does it take to get rid of the stupid thing all together? I know the master cylinder has the same part number for power, and non power... So I'm good there. Am I able to flex and manuver the brake lines enough to do it, or will i be getting out my brake line kinker? What else is there. I remember something about mocing the rod on the pedal, can this be done with the parts that are on my truck right now? I've had a truck with manual brakes, and IMO, it wasn't all that bad. I was able to flat spot the tires at will, and there was no "ugly booster" to look at. Plus, never had any booster issues with that one either...for obviouse reasons. Don't try and sell me a booster, onless it is a remaned unit that you got 2 years ago, has no fluid in it, and are willing to part with it for 50 bucks. Didn't think so. So, what's the steps, and do I need any parts to remove this worthles option.

07-08-2006, 09:24 PM	#2
TugOwar Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Pleasanton, TX Posts: 1,723	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... I seldom get what I need from the search either Andy. I drove my 66 1/2 ton all over hell and creation for 12 years with manual brakes. I like my power brakes but I get what you're sayin, they're not absolutely necessary. I can't help with the conversion question but I think we (the board) should put our heads together and figure out how to rebuild boosters ourselves. There can't be that much to them.

07-08-2006, 09:28 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... I'm on #3, and it hasn't even been on the road for a year. Hmmm, a new push rod. I'm guessing they are a dime a dozen on the parts board, with everyone installing boosters... Would the one ton use the same one as the 1/2 ton?

07-08-2006, 09:31 PM	#5
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Good idea Tug O War. I have a '72 overhaul manual that outlines a step by step rebuild if you have all the fancy GM "J" tools, but I could make them since they're pretty simple tools. I looked on the web for a source for the diaphrams with no luck. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.

07-08-2006, 10:03 PM	#6
TugOwar Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Pleasanton, TX Posts: 1,723	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Maybe I'll talk to my parts guy at Gonzalez and see if he can find a source. Sam, maybe if you have the time and means you could scan and post the pages from that manual.

07-08-2006, 09:25 PM	#3
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... I'm almost positive you'll need a different pushrod. I was able to make my non pwr lines work with the booster installed, but they were a bit shorter than I would like em, so going the other way you should have plenty of line to work with. Yea, the used boosters really blow! I had two go out in a years time. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.

07-08-2006, 10:12 PM	#7
mister.freeze Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 733	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... I chunked it all and went with hydroboost. It really wasn't too tough. I think I used a '96 3/4 ton setup from the local parts store. I can help if you go this route. __________________ '72 K5, known as 'the Fox.'

07-08-2006, 10:19 PM	#8
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... that kinda goes against the whole $50 Mc Budget thing. Honestly, I have never driven a Hydroboost where I liked the pedal feel. That's also one of the problems I've always had with power brakes too, the 'feel' is gone.

07-09-2006, 02:53 AM	#9
72CSTC5 Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deer Park, Tx. Posts: 2,522	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Nuts driving with non power brakes. Like everything else, as time progresses so does technology. Dont be lazy and install the power brakes to your ride.

07-09-2006, 02:57 AM	#10
pritch Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hoytsville, Utah Posts: 3,365	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Seems like you need a longer pushrod to convert from non-power to power, maybe you could just shorten the PB pushrod...Or maybe we could trade, I'm converting to PB in a couple months. __________________ '68 Panel Project Boogie Chillin' '68 C-10 Ol' Green

07-09-2006, 05:16 AM	#11
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... The manual pushrod is rounded on the end that goes into the m/c. The power pushrod has an eye on either end. They are both adjustable IIRC. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

07-09-2006, 07:41 AM	#12
70GMCer Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Joppa, Maryland Posts: 4,408	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... does this help? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=163387 __________________ 1997 GMC Sierra Ext 1965 Mustang

07-09-2006, 08:16 AM	#13
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Andy the last 2 boosters I got from oreilly's were $89 for just the booster and $99 for booster and new master cylinder. Might want to check that out before you drop anymore change on a questionable used booster! __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

07-09-2006, 11:32 AM	#15
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Less than 2 years ago a rebuilt dual diaphram booster from NAPA was $85. The core charge was $2. NAPA also had the booster rebuild kits. I was looking for the rubber boot on the back of the booster and that was the only place I could find that boot, it wasn't sold seperately. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

07-09-2006, 11:55 AM	#16
glock35ipsc Next project: 1970 K10 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524 Posts: 6,684	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Andy - PM me your address. I have a non-power rod that I will send you. I don't need it. Should be able to armstrong the brake lines. I wonder about the proportioning valve? Will you need to replace it with a manual brake distribution block, or whatever they are called for manual brakes? __________________ *Bob* 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 *next project!!* 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE Last edited by glock35ipsc; 07-09-2006 at 11:59 AM.



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07-09-2006, 12:40 PM	#17
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,745	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... P-Valve is the same __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

07-09-2006, 03:30 PM	#18
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Tug O War, I don't have access to a scanner. I checked napaonline for the 3/4 ton dual diaphram is $119 and $28 core charge. Couldn't find any rebuild parts on the site... Sorry for jacking your thread Andy. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction. Last edited by Sweet72; 07-09-2006 at 03:32 PM.

07-09-2006, 03:45 PM	#19
wibilly Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: northwestern wi Posts: 2,111	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... personaly i don't want any vehicle without power brakes. i guess i've gotten so used to them that without it seems like no brakes to me __________________ common sense isn't so common anymore

07-09-2006, 04:01 PM	#20
TugOwar Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Pleasanton, TX Posts: 1,723	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Yes Andy, sorry bout that bro.

07-09-2006, 06:53 PM	#21
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Re: Bass ackwards booster Q... Don't mention it... you guys are keeping it on track. If you came up with the stuff to fix it... I'd jump on your band wagon in a heartbeat. I like the low pedal, the lazy man pedal pressures... just refuse to buy another used booster, and can't afford (or won't afford anyways) a new one. Your thread jacking is better than some of the other responses... saying I'm lazy and technology has advanced...I guess I may as well install day time driving lights, air bags, and ABS...along with a million warning stickers. Glock... PM is on the way... This is very much apreciated. I will swap over to non power brakes, and later on down the road when i have the money to spare... or I can budget it into my life, I'll get a new one.

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