drop questions

[crazyboutclassics]

i have a few questions i was hoping some people could help with. i have a 75 2wd blazer and a 80 2wd shortbed i want them both slammed but dont currently have the dough to bag them like i want to so my question is how low can i go with out having to c notch the frame? if i order a belltech 5/7 kit can i just insatll it and be slammed or will that requiring cutting and welding? would i be better going with a 4/6 kit? also id like to clear 22's is that unrealistic? should i sitck with 20's. basically how low can i go with out cutting or welding? and how big of wheels can i tuck when im at that lowest point? thanks in advanece.....philip

[Turbo85GMC]

You can drop the rear 4" on shackles and hangers and get away without a c-notch. But if you go 6" (or more) with the flip kit, most people seem to recommend a c-notch to avoid bottoming-out all the time.

[crazyboutclassics]

cool. thanks for the info!

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by crazyboutclassics

i have a few questions i was hoping some people could help with. i have a 75 2wd blazer and a 80 2wd shortbed i want them both slammed but dont currently have the dough to bag them like i want to so my question is how low can i go with out having to c notch the frame? if i order a belltech 5/7 kit can i just insatll it and be slammed or will that requiring cutting and welding? would i be better going with a 4/6 kit? also id like to clear 22's is that unrealistic? should i sitck with 20's. basically how low can i go with out cutting or welding? and how big of wheels can i tuck when im at that lowest point? thanks in advanece.....philip

At 6" you're gonna need a notch. It's not a big deal to do it. Yes you'll have to cut your frame, but it's simple to do and shouldn't take more than half a day in your driveway. Sawzall or cut-off wheel will make your life easy. On the squarebody's like yours they look great w/ a 5/7 kit. You should still be able to clear 22's, your main concern will be the backspacing & tire width, but backspacing is key. I can't remember what the proper backspacing is for a 22x8.5" wheel. Maybe someone can chime in with that for you.

[crazyboutclassics]

sweet thats excellent to hear. i already have a sawzall so im part way there. who should i get a c-notch kit from? 5/7 drop and 22's sounds to me like a match made in heaven, you definelty put my mind at ease about the notcing thing i appreciate that. and ill keep what you said about backspacing in the front of my mind and push other worthless stuff like work alittle further back. im sure there is more i need to know but so far you guys have been priceless. thanks....philip

[SCOTI]

A 6" drop out back can be done w/o a notch if you're not planning on any heavy loads.

I have a flip kit + drop shackles & still haven't put in my c-notch. I've been driving it since summer of 03 that way. It sucks when I need to carry something heavy because it will bottom out alot then though.

For a first-timer, I would recommend the 4/6 & 20's if it will be beat on daily.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

A 6" drop out back can be done w/o a notch if you're not planning on any heavy loads.

I have a flip kit + drop shackles & still haven't put in my c-notch. I've been driving it since summer of 03 that way. It sucks when I need to carry something heavy because it will bottom out alot then though.

For a first-timer, I would recommend the 4/6 & 20's if it will be beat on daily.

Anything "can" be done. Whether or not it will be comfortably driveable is another thing. I couldn't believe the difference it made on my '67 when I notched it. And I had a 6" drop out back. There's tons of people on here at 6" w/o a notch. I hit the frame all the time, but our roads in FL are not that great, tons of construction. It's like a new truck w/ the notch and I don't have to slow to a complete stop every time I see a bump or railroad tracks.

My advice, do it now while you have it taken apart anyway. The notch is only another 100 bucks so you you'll save yourself some time down the road.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

Anything "can" be done. Whether or not it will be comfortably driveable is another thing. I couldn't believe the difference it made on my '67 when I notched it. And I had a 6" drop out back. There's tons of people on here at 6" w/o a notch. I hit the frame all the time, but our roads in FL are not that great, tons of construction. It's like a new truck w/ the notch and I don't have to slow to a complete stop every time I see a bump or railroad tracks.

My advice, do it now while you have it taken apart anyway. The notch is only another 100 bucks so you you'll save yourself some time down the road.

Originally Posted by crazyboutclassics

..... i want them both slammed but dont currently have the dough to bag them like i want to so my question is how low can i go with out having to c notch the frame?

Just to clarify the info contained in my response: He asked how low can he go..... not how low should he go.

Originally Posted by crazyboutclassics

.... if i order a belltech 5/7 kit can i just insatll it and be slammed or will that requiring cutting and welding?

This one should be self explanatory: Installing a c-notch in any truck requires cutting the frame to install the notch. Some notches require removal of the bed to drill all the holes ('bolt-in' style) or if it's not a bolt-in, it requires welding.

Not everyone has the tools or place to do this stuff. If he (EDIT: or any person) doesn't have the equipment to cut the frame, he (EDIT: they) could get away w/the 6" flip kit w/o installing a notch @ the same time. If he want's it lower.... he can add the notch or live w/the bottoming out that will happen.

[PBFAB.COM]

Not everyone has the tools or place to do this stuff. [/QUOTE]

Let's not forget EXPERIENCE either. Installing a bolt-in notch is one thing, but a weld in notch is not for the beginner. If you decide to go with a weld in notch make sure it is installed by a QUALIFIED person. The last thing you want is for your frame to break in half on the freeway and have you slam into a school bus full of orphans and nuns. Practice on your friend's ride first!
All joking aside, chassis and suspension work needs to be done by a person who is qualified in that area.

[SCOTI]

Very true.

I actually took a welding class @ the local community college & to pass the class requires your 'weld' to pass a bend/stress test. I passed, but since I don't weld regularly, I haven't maintained my ability.

I don't mind doing some things (I'm sectioning a crossmember), but others (4-link or bag brackets on a frame/rear-end) I would prefer to have a pro do to ensure everyones safety.... mine & yours.

[67Fleet]

OK, not trying to get into a pissing match here, but he said he's got the sawzall. There's not a whole lot involved in doing a bolt-in c-notch. If he's got the skills to do the springs,spindles and flip kit, then he can do the notch. It's not that hard. Besides, that's what this board is for, to gather info on stuff like this so you can make an educated decision of whether the task at hand is something you feel confident in doing, or if it's something you want to farm out for the pro's to do.
A year and a half ago the only thing I knew how to do was change the oil, and put 2" drop shackles on my '03 silvy. Since I've gotten my '67 I've collected tools and done all the work on it myself. I wouldn't have done any of it without asking questions here and learning from the info that others have shared with me.
"CAN" he do a 6" flip without a notch? Sure! But his frame will thank him if he doesn't. So will his kidneys.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

OK, not trying to get into a pissing match here, but he said he's got the sawzall. There's not a whole lot involved in doing a bolt-in c-notch. If he's got the skills to do the springs,spindles and flip kit, then he can do the notch. It's not that hard. Besides, that's what this board is for, to gather info on stuff like this so you can make an educated decision of whether the task at hand is something you feel confident in doing, or if it's something you want to farm out for the pro's to do.
A year and a half ago the only thing I knew how to do was change the oil, and put 2" drop shackles on my '03 silvy. Since I've gotten my '67 I've collected tools and done all the work on it myself. I wouldn't have done any of it without asking questions here and learning from the info that others have shared with me.
"CAN" he do a 6" flip without a notch? Sure! But his frame will thank him if he doesn't. So will his kidneys.

No pissing match here .

I'm just letting him know what my experience was w/my pick-up. I wanted him to know he has options. My frame has survived w/o damage & my kidneys are ok too.... Yes, I must slow down if/when I carry any significant payload (a front frame section from a 73/later truck w/all the pieces intact from FT.Worth back to Garland).

Also.... depending on the brand of c-notch, theres more to the installation than cutting the frame. One of the main reasons I never got around to installing mine was because the Western Chassis c-notch requires you to remove the bed on the 73~87's. This can be difficult when you're working alone (not impossible, just difficult). My 68 also got a bolt-in c-notch that did not require removing the bed.

We both offer valuable info that should help him make the best decision for him.

[PBFAB.COM]

Pissing match?????

I never said he wasn't qualified, or capable... just stated the obvious. WELDING and CUTTING on a vehicle's chassis and or suspension components is a serious matter and needs to be done right. You should see some of the stuff I have seen that had been installed by "professionals"... hmmmm.

We were all beginners at one point. This board is a wonderful place to gather information and learn from other's expierence.

[67Fleet]

SCOTI - point well taken, and FTR I never thought you were "wrong" per-se.

Porterbuilt - I believe it about the hackjobs I'm sure you've seen. I've seen them too and can't believe some of the things people will do to their rides just to make it "cool". Your work is inspiring to say the least & your welds are absolutely amazing.

crazyboutclassics: Get a bolt-in c-notch if you're gonna do it yourself. One of the most important things to remember is to have your frame well braced by jackstands both in front of and behind the area where you are going to cut. This will prevent it from sagging, cracking, or bending when you remove a large portion of it before you get the notch installed. There's a few great write-ups on here about installing notches, some with color pictures. If you have any questions, just ask.

[crazyboutclassics]

i really appreciate everyones input. ivee been looking at some instalation pic and its very helpful as well. i think a bolt in is a good way to go. i got a guy that gave me a free shortbed (minus bed) and im gonna peel the cab and stuff off of it and do all my work to a bare chassis so it easy to see and work with and i can flip it over and do it standing up instead of from underneath. i think thats the smatest way for a beginner like me to do a job like this that way i can take my ime and make sure it gets done right. thanks again to everyone for the help so far ill keep you posted on how it goes and ill take some pics too. thanks...philip

[crazyboutclassics]

ok ive got my parts truck down to bare chassis so im thinking thinking 5/7 or 5/6 whatever kit it is that belltech sells but my next question is where do i get my parts i want belltech suspension unless someone else offers the same drop at a better price with the same quality. quality is more importnant than cheap price. also where should i get a c notch? also what are good shocks to run with this kind of drop? im giving my 75 2wd the same treatment. you guys' help so far has been great so ill trust your judgment and suggestions. thanks...philip

[SCOTI]

Check w/summitracing.com for BellTech drop kits, SportTruckdirect.com is where I got my Western Chassis stuff, or DJM..... all of these manufacturers offer quality pieces.

[67Fleet]

I've always liked McGaughy's components. Never heard anything bad about them. I ran their stuff on my '03 and loved it.

[nwmod39]

if it matters, i will be going with mcgaughys when i do my suspension this winter.

[jlaird]

I need to add my 2 cents to this discussion. I don't fully agree with what porterbuilt is saying about chassis work and professionals. If he was generalizing that is one thing, yes most of the time chassis work should be done by pros. But I myself am a beginner working on a back half on my '69 and wouldn't have it any other way. For the most part, I live by the moto "if you want something done right, you've got to do it yourself." Althought I hate it sometimes, I'm a perfectionist, and everything I do, I do right. I'm not knocking pro's or anything like that, but I would just rather have the satisfaction that I did it myself and know its done right.

In regards to welding, I purchased a quality welder about 8 months ago, and have been constantly practicing, getting help from a friend who as been welding longer than I have been alive, and recently took a class. So with my developing welding skills and the knowledge I get from forums like this one, I don't think chassis work has to be left to a pro.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jlaird

I need to add my 2 cents to this discussion. I don't fully agree with what porterbuilt is saying about chassis work and professionals. If he was generalizing that is one thing, yes most of the time chassis work should be done by pros. But I myself am a beginner working on a back half on my '69 and wouldn't have it any other way. For the most part, I live by the moto "if you want something done right, you've got to do it yourself." Althought I hate it sometimes, I'm a perfectionist, and everything I do, I do right. I'm not knocking pro's or anything like that, but I would just rather have the satisfaction that I did it myself and know its done right.

In regards to welding, I purchased a quality welder about 8 months ago, and have been constantly practicing, getting help from a friend who as been welding longer than I have been alive, and recently took a class. So with my developing welding skills and the knowledge I get from forums like this one, I don't think chassis work has to be left to a pro.

If you go back and read what I said you will see I used the word QUALIFIED. You don't have to be a "pro" to be qualified.
Not all QUALIFIED persons are PROS and not all PROS are QUALIFIED persons... make sense?

[jlaird]

Agreed!