Drip rail moldings - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ThatOneBlue67 · 07-28-2006, 11:54 PM

Hi all!

Last winter, each rian fall turned my dash into a small lake. My most likely suspicion is the drip rail giong around my cab. It is completely rotted out and I believe that water may be getting inside the roof and going down the (?pillars?) and onto the dash board. Does this sound right? Do the two roof panels seal together at the drip rail point?

My final (and most important question). There's no pitcure here, but do these drip rail moldings weld along the door jamb and what not? And if it requires welding (I don't see how otherwise, secret bolts maybe?) would I be able to do a good job and still retain the stainless steel outside? I think stainless steel on my rich blue would look super shweeeeet.

I appreciate any help.

**John Fabris** · 07-29-2006, 01:06 AM

The drip rail trim is a push on type, and the shape of it is suppose to grab onto your rail and stay one. I spent a few minutes trying on a set for my truck and did not feel comfortable using it so I sold my set....

as for water, can be anywere. if you can, remove your carpet and padding in the cab, and goto a carwash with a friend. While you are inside with a flashlight, have your friend spray the truck (try around your doors first, then the cowl, then the windshield, then the roof) and hopefully your get a better idea where your leak is....

ThatOneBlue67 · 07-29-2006, 01:31 AM

I actually have doen that already and found that water did leak in when spraying the windshield weatherstripping on the pasenger side (at the bottom where it rounds off). I had to do repair work on the "lip" and it was quite crude. Are you supposed to put adhesive or something to help keep out water?

**special-K** · 07-29-2006, 06:27 AM

The windshield gasket is meant to fit snug/no goop.They get old and pull-up and many repros don`t fit well in corners.A careful application of black RTV winshield sealer will help.The upper area is often the culprit,it all ends up at the bottom.
The roof gutter area is where body pans/sections meet and relies on body seam sealer to...seal.Over the years it cracks or seperates away from the metal in places and causes rust-out in areas such as the header panel over the windshield to anything below.The gutters need to be cleared of old sealer,rust treated,primed,sealed.
The moulding was an accessory yo rarely see on these trucks.It sets them off in the right application.Like all mouldings,though,it can serve to promote rust in an already troubled area.Something to consider.

ThatOneBlue67 · 07-29-2006, 04:28 PM

I see... thanks Special K. That really sets the image for me. The entire header along the top of the windshield is totally rusted out. I can poke a hole in it (not with my finger yet) but as usual... it'll have to be put off. Not ready for something like that.

When I go to repair and paint the exterior I'll just grind to bare metal and rust treat it the best that I can.

07-28-2006, 11:54 PM	#1
ThatOneBlue67 I survived Dead Man's Curve. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: The Nine-Five-687 Posts: 389	Drip rail moldings Hi all! Last winter, each rian fall turned my dash into a small lake. My most likely suspicion is the drip rail giong around my cab. It is completely rotted out and I believe that water may be getting inside the roof and going down the (?pillars?) and onto the dash board. Does this sound right? Do the two roof panels seal together at the drip rail point? My final (and most important question). There's no pitcure here, but do these drip rail moldings weld along the door jamb and what not? And if it requires welding (I don't see how otherwise, secret bolts maybe?) would I be able to do a good job and still retain the stainless steel outside? I think stainless steel on my rich blue would look super shweeeeet. I appreciate any help. __________________ "The people should not be afraid of their government. The government should be afraid of it's people." "The Hurricane" 1967 Chevrolet C10 350 Eight Cylinder, 700R4 BowtieOverdrive *Cherry Bomb...* Disturbing the Peace Since 1968. Last edited by ThatOneBlue67; 07-28-2006 at 11:54 PM.

07-29-2006, 01:06 AM	#2
John Fabris TOTY 2006 Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Magalia CA USA Posts: 2,270	Re: Drip rail moldings The drip rail trim is a push on type, and the shape of it is suppose to grab onto your rail and stay one. I spent a few minutes trying on a set for my truck and did not feel comfortable using it so I sold my set.... as for water, can be anywere. if you can, remove your carpet and padding in the cab, and goto a carwash with a friend. While you are inside with a flashlight, have your friend spray the truck (try around your doors first, then the cowl, then the windshield, then the roof) and hopefully your get a better idea where your leak is.... __________________ John Fabris 67 C10 SWB

07-29-2006, 01:31 AM	#3
ThatOneBlue67 I survived Dead Man's Curve. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: The Nine-Five-687 Posts: 389	Re: Drip rail moldings I actually have doen that already and found that water did leak in when spraying the windshield weatherstripping on the pasenger side (at the bottom where it rounds off). I had to do repair work on the "lip" and it was quite crude. Are you supposed to put adhesive or something to help keep out water? __________________ "The people should not be afraid of their government. The government should be afraid of it's people." "The Hurricane" 1967 Chevrolet C10 350 Eight Cylinder, 700R4 BowtieOverdrive *Cherry Bomb...* Disturbing the Peace Since 1968.

07-29-2006, 06:27 AM	#4
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,861	Re: Drip rail moldings The windshield gasket is meant to fit snug/no goop.They get old and pull-up and many repros don`t fit well in corners.A careful application of black RTV winshield sealer will help.The upper area is often the culprit,it all ends up at the bottom. The roof gutter area is where body pans/sections meet and relies on body seam sealer to...seal.Over the years it cracks or seperates away from the metal in places and causes rust-out in areas such as the header panel over the windshield to anything below.The gutters need to be cleared of old sealer,rust treated,primed,sealed. The moulding was an accessory yo rarely see on these trucks.It sets them off in the right application.Like all mouldings,though,it can serve to promote rust in an already troubled area.Something to consider. __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

07-29-2006, 04:28 PM	#5
ThatOneBlue67 I survived Dead Man's Curve. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: The Nine-Five-687 Posts: 389	Re: Drip rail moldings I see... thanks Special K. That really sets the image for me. The entire header along the top of the windshield is totally rusted out. I can poke a hole in it (not with my finger yet) but as usual... it'll have to be put off. Not ready for something like that. When I go to repair and paint the exterior I'll just grind to bare metal and rust treat it the best that I can. __________________ "The people should not be afraid of their government. The government should be afraid of it's people." "The Hurricane" 1967 Chevrolet C10 350 Eight Cylinder, 700R4 BowtieOverdrive *Cherry Bomb...* Disturbing the Peace Since 1968.



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