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05-19-2006, 04:02 PM | #26 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Southeast Tx
Posts: 1,302
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Re: LWB to SWB questions...
Hey ackattack... Im getting rid of the long bed (Bad shape) and going to find an existing short bed. If I hit the lottery, Ill buy all aftermarket new stuff...Too much of a hassle to cut up an actual bed!
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"The rays of light thru the Shiner Bock bottle make me wanna turn the key and put down the throttle...and get lost down 35" - Jason Boland www.YouTube.com/user/593Films - Watch My Videos! 1977 Silverado K10 2014 Dodge Durango (Wife-mobile) 2008 Dodge Ram Lone Star Edition (Daily driver) Last edited by texascowboy593; 05-19-2006 at 04:02 PM. |
05-19-2006, 07:02 PM | #27 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hillsboro Oregon
Posts: 6,449
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Re: LWB to SWB questions...
Quote:
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05-19-2006, 11:28 PM | #28 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: linkwood,maryland
Posts: 28
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Re: LWB to SWB questions...
well i know people turn their nose up at it but my plan is a late 90 step bed. i like the look and the wheel openings don't matter to me. it is a daily driver that goes 7 min. to work and burns rubber when needed. i hope to find one cheap in the paper or on the web.
short beds are hard to come by in my neck of the woods. joe |
05-21-2006, 07:41 PM | #29 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Alberta
Posts: 316
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Re: LWB to SWB questions...
Quote:
You have a piece of steel that has the same strength all over it. If you bent this piece from the edges it would fold in the middle, keep bending it and it would break there. Now say you get it welded and theres absolutely no defects in the weld but it is stronger (coming from your post). If you bent the piece the exact same way it will bend next to the weld instead of on it (where it bent the previous time). The problem with a stronger weld is that it will bend at the edge of the weld with less force than before because the weld will resist deformation more, thereby making the piece weaker. By no means take this post as gospel, there are far to many factors to discuss here and I've already confessed that I'm no expert On my frame I did the step cut with radiused corners like in glocks FAQ. I V-grooved the outer edge and then did a back weld (grind out a slot from behind and reweld that). I still used a 16" piece of C-channel on the inside to reinforce. |
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08-22-2006, 02:55 PM | #30 |
AttentionDeficitDisorder
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 600
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Re: LWB to SWB questions...
whats the easiest way to do this to a daily driver truck without having to tear the entire cab off the frame? any ideas?
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08-22-2006, 07:37 PM | #31 |
Out of the carpool lane.
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clark Co, WA
Posts: 5,673
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Re: LWB to SWB questions...
I don't think you can and still have ideal results. Optimally, the location just underneath the cab is the straightest/best place to cut the 12" out of.
Taking the cab off isn't too bad-I did it all by myself with an engine hoist. There are several good posts on that subject too.
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1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... |
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