Just starting to work on my truck...

[bazkook]

I'm starting to work on my '70 Stepside tomorrow. I've been holding it off forever and I finally decided to start on the truck before rusts eats the thing up.
I'm starting on the engine first and next comes the body,which will undoubtedly be the most expensive part. It has an inline 6 with a 3 speed on the column but I plan on putting a 383 stroker with a custom built 350 trans with a shift kit. My mechanic neighbor is doing the engine work and a few other things but B&B Transmission(I believe that's their name) from Dublin,GA(I also believe that's where they're located) is building the trans for about $400 or so thanks to connections that my neighbor has. I think that's a great deal! I probably going to put a Trick Flow top end kit that supposed to make 500 horses with 750 Holley double pumper and Edelbrock Victor Jr. manifold. Does anybody have any experience with this package? Here's the link:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
I plan to put a Nitrous Works system on the engine along with a barely used but practically new Eaton posi rear end. I am also buying a set of Mickey Thompson Drag Slicks for about $100 apiece. The nitrous,rear end,and slicks is only going to run me $1000 because I know a guy who used to have a 68 Stepside but has since sold the truck and offered them to me.
The body work will be handled by an old friend. He has the best prices and does some amazing work. He restored an old stepside for his son(not sure of the exact year but it was the 67-72 body style) and it looks really sharp. The body panels that may be too messed up to repair may be replaced by fiberglass panels but I still haven't decided for sure yet. I want it to be street legal and tough,just in case I have a wreck,but I still want to save weight. Which is a better choice in this case:fiberglass or steel? I'm definitely going with a bolt-on fiberglass cowl hood though.
The interior is going to be overhauled also. The dash needs replacing and I think I'm going with a new instrument cluster with Autometer gauges. The bench seat is being ditched for bucket seats but I'm not sure what kind of bucket seats I want yet. Any suggestions and pics of your bucket seats? A/C ,CD player with new speakers,power steering,and a tilt steering wheel are must-haves for me. Power windows and a sliding rear window may be on the list provided they aren't too difficult to install. I wanted to relocate the gas tank but I think I've decided against it for now. I know it's possible but I think it will be too much of a headache. What do you think?
The truck will most likely be dropped a few inches and is going to have American Racing Torq-Thrust IIs(not sure of size yet) wrapped with some drag radials(not sure which ones yet either)? Any suggestions on tires?
I know this may seem like a long post but I'm so excited about finally starting!!! I plan to drive this truck on the weekends and special occasions such as racing but it may end up so nice that I can't help but drive it everyday! I know you're going to ask for pics but I don't have any now. It'll probably be either tomorrow or Friday before I can post any pics. Let me know what you think about the plans and feel free to offer any advice/suggestions/etc. Thanks!

[chevy_fatman]

Wow! first of all to the board from PA! it sounds like you have a plan already!, it'd be better if you relocate the gas tank now instead of doing it later, (I know you'll want to later )

If you want to save weight then I would get a complete fiberglass front clip, you can get one at usbody.com , keep in mind they have a disclaimer that their parts are for race purpose only and they're pricey.
And yes, that is a long post!! I need another beer!

[Skruffy]

That all sounds great, and maybe it's just me, but I think it would make more sense to work on the body first. If it's really that rusty, you might be better off trying to get that taken care of first.

I guess I've just seen too many projects where people invest a lot of money in frame, lowering, mechanicals, etc and never get to the body or end up selling the whole thing as parts.

If your body really needs that much work, you might be able to find a better cab and actually save money.

I have come to the conclusion that if I had to do it all over again and had a driver, I would buy a good cab, make a tip-and-flip to put it on, get any bodywork on it done, paint the inside, wire it, do gauges, etc. That is going to take some time and $$$$$. Meanwhile you can still drive what you have.

Once that is done you could go to the next step.

JMO

[bazkook]

Originally Posted by chevy_fatman

Wow! first of all to the board from PA! it sounds like you have a plan already!, it'd be better if you relocate the gas tank now instead of doing it later, (I know you'll want to later )

If you want to save weight then I would get a complete fiberglass front clip, you can get one at usbody.com , keep in mind they have a disclaimer that their parts are for race purpose only and they're pricey.
And yes, that is a long post!! I need another beer!

I actually registered a while back ago but I haven't posted all that much. Saving weight is not a big issue but if the existing body panels cannot be repaired easily then I'll ask the body guy for his opinion. With as much power as the engine is going to be putting out,the truck will probably still run low 12s/high 11s at least,as long as I do my part right. I figured that from this thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=drag
About how much does a truck like mine weigh stock? I've heard about 4000 pounds or so.
I've actually visited the site you mentioned and browsed there. They are pricey but at least you know that what you are getting is new condition.

Originally Posted by Skruffy

That all sounds great, and maybe it's just me, but I think it would make more sense to work on the body first. If it's really that rusty, you might be better off trying to get that taken care of first.

I guess I've just seen too many projects where people invest a lot of money in frame, lowering, mechanicals, etc and never get to the body or end up selling the whole thing as parts.

If your body really needs that much work, you might be able to find a better cab and actually save money.

I have come to the conclusion that if I had to do it all over again and had a driver, I would buy a good cab, make a tip-and-flip to put it on, get any bodywork on it done, paint the inside, wire it, do gauges, etc. That is going to take some time and $$$$$. Meanwhile you can still drive what you have.

Once that is done you could go to the next step.

JMO

I was told by the guy doing the body that it would be best to do the engine work first then the body because having people working around the engine compartment could lead to scratches and whatnot. I could work on the engine while the body is being worked on but we would have to worry about clearances and other factors. Don't worry about me giving up on the project! It's a very special truck. I inherited it from my late grandfather and I've always wanted it since the first time I laid eyes on it. I still have to get with him and let him see the truck to get his professional opinion and let you know what he said. Thanks for all the help!

[bazkook]

Here's the pics:
















It needs a LOT of work I know but I can't wait for to see what it'll look like when it's done!

[84 400]

man your saving one from the yard for sure. are you planning on switching the motor?

[bazkook]

Oh yeah I'm going to put in a 383. I inherited the truck from my late grandfather so it has a lot of sentimental value. Sorry if the photos are too bright but I was still trying to figure my digital camera.

[Stroker]

I've used the Trick Flow heads no problems I think they are a good value. Don't have any experience with their cams. I would tackle the Fuel Tank along with the engine and drivetrain build. The old fuel lines and mech pump won't cut it for the 383 with NOS. You'll need a properly built fuel system to feed the new engine. Elect pump, regulator with return feed. You can't afford to skimp on a fuel system with NOS.

[bazkook]

Originally Posted by Stroker

I've used the Trick Flow heads no problems I think they are a good value. Don't have any experience with their cams. I would tackle the Fuel Tank along with the engine and drivetrain build. The old fuel lines and mech pump won't cut it for the 383 with NOS. You'll need a properly built fuel system to feed the new engine. Elect pump, regulator with return feed. You can't afford to skimp on a fuel system with NOS.

I'm probably going to use at least a 10-15 gallon fuel cell and mount it in the bed instead of relocating the gas tank. An electric fuel pump is going to be used with the nitrous and a mechanical fuel pump on the engine. I sent Trick Flow an email asking them a number of questions,including if the engine kit I'm interested in is nitrous friendly.

[meathead95]

with a 6cyl and 3 speed t more then likely already has a posi init

[bazkook]

Originally Posted by meathead95

with a 6cyl and 3 speed t more then likely already has a posi init

A mechanic looked at the rear end and didn't think it had one. He thinks that I have 3.73s in it though. Even if the truck has posi already I'll replace it with the Eaton unit because the old one is probably badly worn out as is the rest of the truck.

[meathead95]

what do you want for the old one?

[bazkook]

Originally Posted by meathead95

what do you want for the old one?

The old what? I assume you're talking about the posi unit I may or may not have on the truck already. I'll have to check to see if one is already on there and I'll give a price.