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Old 09-12-2006, 11:12 PM   #1
67chevy2wd
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Question Door skin help?

I am planning on redoing the lower outer door skins on my doors and am wondering how to do it. Do you guys over lap the metal or butt them together? Can a hammer be used to roll the edges over or do you need a tool?
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Old 09-12-2006, 11:42 PM   #2
BarryB
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Re: Door skin help?

You can do it either way. but or over lap. they main thing is not warping the panel when you weld it. Little tack weldsall the way across, and space them in between welds. Has for folding over the edge. You can use a hammer they have door skin hammer but you can use a flat body hammer and dolly. after you get it all folded over go back and tack weld in a few choice places. and then seamseal it. Hope that helps.
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Old 09-12-2006, 11:45 PM   #3
67chevy2wd
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Re: Door skin help?

How do make it look right if you over lap it? Won't there be a sort of step in the body panel?
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'67 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (in pieces)
'69 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (on hold)
'71 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4
‘71 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd suburban
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Old 09-13-2006, 07:35 AM   #4
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Re: Door skin help?

Some just lap and bondo.It`s best to put a step-flange in it to make it flush.
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:50 AM   #5
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Re: Door skin help?

I replaced my inner & outer door bottoms. I left as much of the original metal as possible. I used a panel flanger on the original metal to create an inset for the patch panel to fit in. After carefully custom fitting the patch panel I then drilled 1/4" holes across the new piece to allow me to plug weld the 2 pieces together. After this was completed...weld very slowly!!!!!, I dressed up the welds and both panels were flush, and by flanging the joint, it was very strong. It required a very small amount of filler. I used a flat body hammer & dolly to bend the lip. The lips were also plug welded to the door frame once they were hammered in place. I won't tell you how many man hours I had in both doors, but I was pleased with the results.
One more thing...Be sure to get several measurements on the old door before you start cutting. I scribed a line about 10 -12" up from the bottom of the door and used it as a reference point during the process. After you have tacked the patch panels in place, hang the door and check your gaps.
Good Luck!
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Old 09-13-2006, 01:23 PM   #6
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Re: Door skin help?

What is the best panel flanger tool to use. The vise grip kind or the gear roller one.
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'69 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (on hold)
'71 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4
‘71 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd suburban
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Old 09-13-2006, 02:23 PM   #7
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Re: Door skin help?

Also shere can I find a good set of inexpensive body hammers and dollies?
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07 Chevy classic LBZ Duramax (a few mods)
'67 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (in pieces)
'69 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (on hold)
'71 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4
‘71 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd suburban
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Old 09-13-2006, 02:35 PM   #8
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Re: Door skin help?

I used an old pliers type panel flanger, but I would probably have used the vise grip type if I did not have the others. You can puchase a cheap set of body hammers/dollies for about $20.00 - $30.00 from Northern Tools or Harbor Freight. I've seen several sets on ebay also.
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Old 09-13-2006, 03:02 PM   #9
67chevy2wd
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Re: Door skin help?

What do you think of this set, http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1704
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07 Chevy classic LBZ Duramax (a few mods)
'67 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (in pieces)
'69 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (on hold)
'71 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4
‘71 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd suburban
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Old 09-13-2006, 06:48 PM   #10
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Re: Door skin help?

Thanks for the info here. Just got my engine back in and running. Some small adjustments needed as usual. My next project is the body work. I already have the lower door panels, just getting the testicular fortitude to start. Never done this amount of body repair before, but it is a labor of love.
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Old 09-14-2006, 09:36 PM   #11
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Re: Door skin help?

That's the kit I was referring to.
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Old 09-14-2006, 10:40 PM   #12
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Re: Door skin help?

I thought on the hammer and dolly kit you showed. The hammer head is really to short for this type of job to do it right. If you look in at Eastwood. They also offer a door skin hammer it is long and curved to get in there and make it look good. And another thing. The dollys you mentioned, are most likely hollow made out of cast. Not really the best thing for body work. You can get cheaper stuff but you are getting what you pay for.
Harbour freight offers an air flanging tool, one side flanges and the other side is a punch. so you can do button welds also. makes a strong joint. usually about 40 bucks.
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