Best SB motor parts/specs

[cheyenne10]

I am looking for everyones suggestions for a build list for a good SB.

It will be going into 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup with T350/NP205 and 3.73 gears, currently 31" tires probably be going to 33s. I like to pull in and run Costco pump regular unleaded and get decent mileage. Prefer a strong durable motor. Had Goodwrench new motors and did not like them at all. I need more HP and torque for faster fun and pulling. Would like this truck to cruise over mountain passes without feeling like I am pushing it for all I have.

Assume 2 bolt main
using stock alt, PS and AC brackets
stock air cleaner setup
exhaust manifolds, no headers

Need recommendations and brands on

cam
carb and intake
heads
internals
etc.

Lets here your preferences

[Aarons72s]

Ok first things first if you are going to spend that much money have the motor blue printed. It costs only a little more but well worth it in the long run. The machinist makes sure everything fits together very precise and it should includ a complete balance of the motor. Use forged pistons and moly rings. Stock rods and crank should be fine. As for cam if you want just a plain old good mild performance cam getthe the eldelbrock performer cam. Double roller timing chain is a must. Heads, me I prefer stock heads, they can be rebuilt well for the performance you want just have them ported and polished and buy good springs. but I would go with either the edelbrock heads or any of the gm performance heads if aftermarket is what you want, I am not good with heads so someone with more info will probably help more. Do you get a summit catalog? If not order one. They have pretty much what you need and get there supplies from the good manufactuers. You dont have to buy from them but it will give you some ideas. Me if I was doing aftermarket for heads and carb the edelbrock performer intake and afb carb would be my choice.
I think this will help start you on a good path. Hopefully people with more experiance in all the areas will chime in and help you out.
Aaron

[Billla]

Originally Posted by cheyenne10

I am looking for everyones suggestions for a build list for a good SB.

It will be going into 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup with T350/NP205 and 3.73 gears, currently 31" tires probably be going to 33s. I like to pull in and run Costco pump regular unleaded and get decent mileage. Prefer a strong durable motor. Had Goodwrench new motors and did not like them at all. I need more HP and torque for faster fun and pulling. Would like this truck to cruise over mountain passes without feeling like I am pushing it for all I have.

Assume 2 bolt main
using stock alt, PS and AC brackets
stock air cleaner setup
exhaust manifolds, no headers

Need recommendations and brands on

cam
carb and intake
heads
internals
etc.

Lets here your preferences

Preferences are based on budget; how much do you want (us) to spend? :-D Seriously, without a budget it's a question that has no answer.

There are a couple of things that are a given; you for sure want a 383 as you're looking for "grunt" and a 383 is the cheapest way to "get some". Also, since you want to run on regular gas, you're limited to less than 9.5:1 CR. Using the stock manifolds is also costing you 30+ HP, so that puts a practical limit on the HP power of the build.

Overall, I'd look at a nice cast 383 with HT pistons, Vortech heads, Edelbrock Performer (Vortech) intake and carb and a good RV cam. This type of combo should give about 325 FWHP and over 450 ft-lbs of torque up to about 4000 RPM.

A more specific budget allows more specific information, but expect to pay about $3500 for this level of build - assuming you're willing and able to do the final ass'y yourself.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by Aarons72s

Ok first things first if you are going to spend that much money have the motor blue printed. It costs only a little more but well worth it in the long run. The machinist makes sure everything fits together very precise and it should includ a complete balance of the motor. Use forged pistons and moly rings. Stock rods and crank should be fine. As for cam if you want just a plain old good mild performance cam getthe the eldelbrock performer cam. Double roller timing chain is a must. Heads, me I prefer stock heads, they can be rebuilt well for the performance you want just have them ported and polished and buy good springs. but I would go with either the edelbrock heads or any of the gm performance heads if aftermarket is what you want, I am not good with heads so someone with more info will probably help more. Do you get a summit catalog? If not order one. They have pretty much what you need and get there supplies from the good manufactuers. You dont have to buy from them but it will give you some ideas. Me if I was doing aftermarket for heads and carb the edelbrock performer intake and afb carb would be my choice.
I think this will help start you on a good path. Hopefully people with more experiance in all the areas will chime in and help you out.
Aaron

All good information, but I'd push back a little bit on a couple of things:

Blueprinting is wasted on a street motor, especially one that's making < 1.5 HP/COD. The purpose of blueprinting is to allow easy, CONSISTENT part changes for racing engines - the ability to swap a head and KNOW that it's not going to affect the performance of the engine. Sure, have the block squared and align-honed - but full blueprinting doesn't cost a little more; expect to pay $1000+ for this. There will be a lot of different opinions on this, but for a 1 HP/CID engine IMHO the minimum machining is all that's required.

Forged pistons really aren't required unless you're going to spray (NOs) or go forced-induction at some point (super or turbo charger). Hyperutectic pistons are a high-density cast piston and are good up to about 1.2 HP/CID...as long as you're not using any power-adders.

Stock heads, by the time they're done, will cost more than aftermarket and flow less It's sad, because I see more and more of the performance heads of the 60's that were highly sought after just a few years ago going in the scrap...but modern design and machining makes a better head. The Vortechs are the best deal on the planet, especially for our trucks. $550 or so gets you a high flow head, assembled and ready to drop on. Too cheap to steal

[tommy graham]

Originally Posted by Billla

All good information, but I'd push back a little bit on a couple of things:

Blueprinting is wasted on a street motor, especially one that's making < 1.5 HP/COD. The purpose of blueprinting is to allow easy, CONSISTENT part changes for racing engines - the ability to swap a head and KNOW that it's not going to affect the performance of the engine. Sure, have the block squared and align-honed - but full blueprinting doesn't cost a little more; expect to pay $1000+ for this. There will be a lot of different opinions on this, but for a 1 HP/CID engine IMHO the minimum machining is all that's required.

As you stated, opinions will run wild on this catagory. But a true engine building shop will "blueprint" every engine they build. If a shop does not, I would not take my BBQ pit for them to work on.

A "Blueprint" of anything is just a reference to use at a later date if you have problems or decide to sell the engine. Any shop that does not take the time to document part numbers, head volume, valve angles, spring height, pushrod length, bob weight,bore size, ring gap, bearing clearances, torque specs and so forth, you don't need their product. If "THEY" don't know what you've got, how will you ever know.

People see it everyday. They had 2 engines with identical parts but one was faster than the other. It is either cam timing, compression ratio, or a clearance issue. Nothing magical, just a bunch of parts that work together.

My 2 cents.
tg

[Billla]

Originally Posted by tommy graham

As you stated, opinions will run wild on this catagory. But a true engine building shop will "blueprint" every engine they build. If a shop does not, I would not take my BBQ pit for them to work on.

A "Blueprint" of anything is just a reference to use at a later date if you have problems or decide to sell the engine. Any shop that does not take the time to document part numbers, head volume, valve angles, spring height, pushrod length, bob weight,bore size, ring gap, bearing clearances, torque specs and so forth, you don't need their product. If "THEY" don't know what you've got, how will you ever know.

People see it everyday. They had 2 engines with identical parts but one was faster than the other. It is either cam timing, compression ratio, or a clearance issue. Nothing magical, just a bunch of parts that work together.

My 2 cents.
tg

We have a different definition of "blueprint". Blueprinting an engine isn't writing down what's there - I agree that's required and I always make up a book for my engines - it's making everything identical...ensuring each chamber is the same size, block is completely square in all respects, etc. I suggest the book at the link below as a reference.

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Engine-Blu...e=UTF8&s=books

[stllookn]

Bill...thanks for the heads up on that book...I have been looking for something like that. I am putting together a "bottom feeder" small block 400 for the Longhorn and this will help. I've been using Lingehfelter's, Vizard's and Yunick's books which are great. It is always good to know how badly you are screwing things up...LOL!

[clay68c10]

You could add a stock TBI setup for pretty cheap if you're good with electrical stuff. If you build a 383 stroker and are worried you won't get enough flow at the top end, just use a big block throttle assy. And I'd definitely use vortech heads, best head for the $.

[Sweet72]

Aftermarket heads are the way to go and cheaper in the long run. If you hava a good 350 2 or 4 bolt core and a few thousand bucks to throw at it, get a balanced rotating assembly from a reputable outfit like Scoggin Dickey. This rotating assy. yeilds 10.3:1 CR with 64cc heads but could easily run on pump gas with larger chamber heads. A useful tool in determining CR and other engine building specs is found on KB Silvolite website.

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/450/...g-Assembly.htm
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php

[PanelDeland]

I don't have pricing but i would look at the GM factory 383 short block.It has a touch more stroke and no overbore(in case you want to rebuild later this is a plus).Then a set of the votec heads or maybe aftermarket aluminum(which allows a slightly higher CR than iron on the same cat pee fuel).As stated above you are leaving HP on the table but I think the 30 hp is conservative.If you use the stock manifolds you will restrict whatever you build more and more as power levels go up.I know lots of people complain about exhaust leaks with headers but generally they are cheaper headers with thinner flanges,sometimes it's a simple gasket that doesn't do the job well..If it's ground clearance you are worried about a set of shorty headers will give you that and better flow.
As far as cams go you can get a bit wilder with cam if you run EFI(and the CR within limits) and that may give you more HP.The cam choice would probably best be left to the manufacturers recomendation.They will want to know everything about the truck and how you plan to use it.For the street or trail HP isn't as important as torque in the RPM range you will use.
The EFI will also help on those mountain passes since it will tailor fuel delivery to the conditions.Many carbed vehicles need rejetting for major altitude changes.
I would think the EFI would help you acheive a couple of the goals you are striving for. Good luck with it and keep us posted on what you determine so we have more info to base the answer to this question the next time it's asked.

BTW Scoggin-Dickey seems to have great pricing on performance stuff like the vortec heads and short blocks.Also a crate short block will have a warranty(Always a plus).