Por-15

[67Fleet]

Will 2 quarts be enough to do my frame and chassis components (will be brushing on) or will I need more? Also, anyone bought from this guy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POR-1...46934295QQrdZ1

Is that a good price to pay w/ shipping for 2 qts? I haven't shopped around too much yet. He's got 100% feedback rating so I'm sure he's good to deal with.

[68GenIII]

Im gonna say yes. I shot mine and I used 1 quart on the frame, and a half of another on the K member, tranny X member, control arm X member, upper A arms, and lower A arms.

[LockDoc]

Yes, It goes farther if you brush it. I did my frame with less than a quart.

I paid $32 a quart for mine at a swap meet....

I think this is a good product but I think the jury is still out on the longevity. One of my questions is whether rust will start creeping under it around the bolt holes and areas where you can't get full coverage with it.

I have to spend a little time here on my observations of the POR15 product. First off if you have never used it and you are thinking about it I can't stress enough to read ALL of the instructions, TWICE. Being old school I have to learn all lessons the hard way. Two important points, #1- Wear some "good" rubber or latex gloves. (don't wear the ones you got from your buddy over at the ambulance barn, or that cute nurse at the hospital, they aren't heavy enough) If you don't wear gloves when you apply it you can wear them three weeks later when you go to uncle Harry's funeral, to cover the POR15 that's STILL on your hands. #2- If your bestest buddy Paul, (you know the one that's always pulling your leg about something) tells you to put a piece of Saran Wrap between the lid and the can after you have used some out of it don't say "yeah, right", do it! Otherwise you'll end up having to cut the center out of the lid with tin snips and pour what's left in the can into a jar. If there is any paint residue around the lip of the can and it sets a week or two you will NOT be able to get the lid off of the can, period! Oh, and another thing, if you wear coveralls to protect your best pair of pants and you drip the paint onto the coveralls they will now be your second best pair of pants. You will not be able to wipe the drip off before it soaks through to your good pants.

I almost forgot.... If you get it on any threads that you have to get a nut or bolt on/off of plan on using a tap, die, or thread chaser to clean the threads up first.

Hope this helps.....

LockDoc

[chevymad]

Took me 1 qt to do my chassis with a brush. If you put it on over surface rust I don't think it will ever come off. Even if you beat on it. But I've had adhesion problems on clean steel. Havent used their prep kit though.

[blaserman]

Laso make sure you have good ventlation in the area you are using it. There have been severak threads on this subject and a couple people have had bad reactions to the fumes.

[Huck]

If you spray this stuff and don't wear positive air flow breathing protection, IT CAN DO PERMANENT DAMAGE TO YOUR LUNGS AND EVENTUALLY KILL YOU!!!!!!!! Be very carful---.
If brushing, make sure the area you are woking in is well ventelated with a fan sucking the fumes OUT!!
If you brush it on, don't wear your good glasses without safety glasses on top. Once it gets on plastic lenses, you can't get the crap off and will be seeing spots forever!!
POR15 sells on e-bay for about $30. a quart plus shipping. It spreds like ink and goes a lot further then you would ever think. It covers rough surfaces very well. You still need to remove loose stuff and any oil residue. It does not stick well to slick metal without first roughed a bit and primed.

[Rokcrln]

Everything you have read thus far is dead on! Good job guys!
LockDoc~ Sorry to here about your Uncle Harry

If your frame is already clean and smooth just roll it out side for a week and each morning wet it down real good so it surface rust back up. Then brush away. Also one other thing is do not be tempted to spray it on so you get a nice smooth finish because brushing it will do just as good of a job. This stuff melts out real well. But it does not hold up to UV light so keep that frame covered or check into their new UV approved stuff.
Good luck and keep safe!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[dave666693]

Definately prep any clean metal 1st. I have used their metal prep product and it works good. Etching primer is good also. Most of my frame I just wire brushed off the loose dirt and used their Marine Clean to get the grease off. Painted Por 15 on top and it worked great. On top of that I used their Chassis Black. Not really needed but I liked it. Por 15 has little to none UV protection. I am using their Hardnose 2 part paint on the inside of my bed. Great stuff also.

[zden]

i've been getting it at carquest and autozone for around $34 bucks a quart. you may want to check there.

[67Fleet]

awesome! Thanks for the replies guys it is much appreciated.

[slt0066]

heres a pic of an old frame I have behind my house, the front of it was blasted and brushed with por 15 at least 3 years ago
and its has sat outside for the last year

i used some stuff called rust bullet and it seems to be working just as good with not as much prep. its worth looking into www.rustbullet.com

[wolfthing2000]

I also used the Rust Bullet and it is super good.. I wouldn't mail order any of this stuff, unless you are 100 miles away from a town, just about anywhere has it local. Check with the local paint shops, powdercoaters hot rod shops etc. It sells for 32.00 or something like that. If you use the engine paint, I highly reccomend the thinner for it. It is way thick and hard to spread and get even over smooth panels like the oil pan, valve covers..........great finish hoever.