Oil Pan Gaskets... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**COBALT** · 10-31-2002, 02:24 PM

I have a cork replacement from NAPA for my '80 350, but I'm thinking about looking into something that doesn't need gasket tack. Any ideas?

I thought about going with Fel-Pro. They make some good stuff. I'd love something like the valve cover gaskets with the steel cores from Mr. Gasket...

Woody · 10-31-2002, 04:25 PM

Here's what I dop on gaskets such as oil pan, valve covers ect.
First clean the surfaces as good as possible, I use gas or brake parts cleaner on a paper towel or rag. Then I use the High Temp Red RTV or Copper Ultra RTV. Stay away from the blue RTV for anything that will be in contact with oil, gas or anti freeze. I use a thin layer on the cover (oil pan) then put the gasket on and install bolts thru the holes to hold everything in place. Then a thin layer on the engine surface, then install the pan. DON'T Tight the bolts too much. Just enough to squeeze the excess RTV out a little. Then wait overnight!! to allow RTV to set. double check the bolts the next morning. You may want to use Lock-tite on the bolts to ensure they don't rattle out. This has worked well for me over the years. Man if it's the one thing I hate it's an oil leak. I have seem people use just RTV but I havn't tried it. I have used this method to seal up the front and back centers of an intake (where the lousy rubber pieces are suppose to go) without removing the intake and it worked fine. Plus it matches the chevy orange paint !!
Good Luck

bigjimzlll · 10-31-2002, 04:36 PM

there is only one way to do it right.....fel-pro one piece reusable oilpan gasket..its the best thing since sliced bread...no sealant needed..has crush sleeves so you cant over tighten it...you can pull the pan as much as you want and not have to worry about scraping all that goop off...sure its 30.00 but well worth it

paintpyro · 10-31-2002, 04:49 PM

I just bought the Fel Pro 1 piece gasket, havent installed it yet. Thanks for the info, no sealant needed huh?

**COBALT** · 10-31-2002, 05:04 PM

Yeah, fel-pro makes some good stuff. I put a review in the "Reviews" section for their reusable thermostat housing gaskets. I have two of them, and they seal like a charm.

I priced the fel-pro gasket through Summit. $32. I'll spring for it.

How 'bout Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal?

bigjimzlll · 10-31-2002, 07:26 PM

im using the ultraseal head gaskets and collector gaskets..I like them .... oh yea...dont use sealant on the one piece oil pan gasket....

71Blazer · 10-31-2002, 07:39 PM

My header gasket blew last week... sounds like crap!

What are the best gaskets/sealer to use to keep the exhaust quiet (until it hits the Flowmasters:p)?

**COBALT** · 10-31-2002, 07:55 PM

I'd replace the gasket. I wouldn't try to seal the existing one.

Ackattack · 10-31-2002, 08:46 PM

I got a fel pro 1 piece gasket and it finally sealed.

I tried installing the regular 4 piece 4 times!!!! and it didn't seal. That is very annoying since it's is a huge PITA to change the gaskets while the engine is in the truck.

71Blazer · 10-31-2002, 08:49 PM

I've been looking at copper and aluminum (header) gaskets instead of the cheapo's that were on it when I bought it. Are the Cu and Al gaskets worth the price?

No, I don't intend to reseal the blown ones...

Thanks!

*Fast68Chevy* · 10-31-2002, 09:06 PM

one piece fel pro ones rule

as far as header gaskets go, i always replace gaskets with manifold gaskets, work fine and dont burn out. sometimes do grind down some of the protruding weld where tubes are welded to header head flange.

good luck

*Piston* · 11-01-2002, 03:18 AM

I agree, one piece on my own vehicle no doubt!

But unfortunatly not every customer wants to pay that extra amount at the shop

For the multi peice oil pan gaskets, here is the method I use at the shop.

Clean all surface area's with brake clean, make sure NO oil is there. using Permatex grey (vulcanizing, high temp) lay a small bead on the end rails (main bearing cap and timing cover), lay the rubber seals in place but not pressed in completly. Next using 3M weatherstrip adhesive, run a small bead of adhesive down the engine block rail, each side. Place your gasket onto the block, sliding the gasket end tabs under the rubber end seals, press rubber end seals down and allow the 3M to setup (1-2 minutes). Now run a thin coating of the grey silicone on both gaskets AND the rubber end seals. Be sure to add a little extra in the corners.

You can use just about any quick adhesive to hold the gaskets in place, but I prefer using the 3M because it does add some sealing properties to the gasket. Instead of "quick tack" that simply holds the gasket.

Here's the point where you will either create a leak or ensure a good seal.

Tightening the pan bolts! Tighten all bolts evenly until the gasket just barely starts to push towards the edge of the pan. If you over tighten these bolts, you can and will crush the pan gasket to the point of seperation.

10-31-2002, 02:24 PM	#1
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Oil Pan Gaskets... I have a cork replacement from NAPA for my '80 350, but I'm thinking about looking into something that doesn't need gasket tack. Any ideas? I thought about going with Fel-Pro. They make some good stuff. I'd love something like the valve cover gaskets with the steel cores from Mr. Gasket... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-31-2002, 04:36 PM	#3
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	there is only one way to do it right.....fel-pro one piece reusable oilpan gasket..its the best thing since sliced bread...no sealant needed..has crush sleeves so you cant over tighten it...you can pull the pan as much as you want and not have to worry about scraping all that goop off...sure its 30.00 but well worth it __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

10-31-2002, 04:49 PM	#4
paintpyro Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Santa Fe Springs, CA,USA Posts: 1,579	I just bought the Fel Pro 1 piece gasket, havent installed it yet. Thanks for the info, no sealant needed huh? __________________ 70 shortbed stepside "Schleprock" 350 w/TH400 rallys and BFGs -We can rebuild it, we have the technology-lower,shinier,faster

10-31-2002, 05:04 PM	#5
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Yeah, fel-pro makes some good stuff. I put a review in the "Reviews" section for their reusable thermostat housing gaskets. I have two of them, and they seal like a charm. I priced the fel-pro gasket through Summit. $32. I'll spring for it. How 'bout Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal? __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-31-2002, 07:26 PM	#6
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	im using the ultraseal head gaskets and collector gaskets..I like them .... oh yea...dont use sealant on the one piece oil pan gasket.... __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

10-31-2002, 04:25 PM	#2
Woody Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Georgetown, KY, USA Posts: 631	Here's what I dop on gaskets such as oil pan, valve covers ect. First clean the surfaces as good as possible, I use gas or brake parts cleaner on a paper towel or rag. Then I use the High Temp Red RTV or Copper Ultra RTV. Stay away from the blue RTV for anything that will be in contact with oil, gas or anti freeze. I use a thin layer on the cover (oil pan) then put the gasket on and install bolts thru the holes to hold everything in place. Then a thin layer on the engine surface, then install the pan. DON'T Tight the bolts too much. Just enough to squeeze the excess RTV out a little. Then wait overnight!! to allow RTV to set. double check the bolts the next morning. You may want to use Lock-tite on the bolts to ensure they don't rattle out. This has worked well for me over the years. Man if it's the one thing I hate it's an oil leak. I have seem people use just RTV but I havn't tried it. I have used this method to seal up the front and back centers of an intake (where the lousy rubber pieces are suppose to go) without removing the intake and it worked fine. Plus it matches the chevy orange paint !! Good Luck

10-31-2002, 07:39 PM	#7
71Blazer Goodbye Darlin' Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Coupeville, WA USA Posts: 330	how about header gaskets? My header gasket blew last week... sounds like crap! What are the best gaskets/sealer to use to keep the exhaust quiet (until it hits the Flowmasters:p)? __________________ 1971 Blazer CST SOLD!

10-31-2002, 07:55 PM	#8
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I'd replace the gasket. I wouldn't try to seal the existing one. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-31-2002, 08:46 PM	#9
Ackattack Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Valley Center KS Posts: 3,524	I got a fel pro 1 piece gasket and it finally sealed. I tried installing the regular 4 piece 4 times!!!! and it didn't seal. That is very annoying since it's is a huge PITA to change the gaskets while the engine is in the truck. __________________ Project Bruiser: 68 Pro-Touring C-10 5.3L / 4L60E Project Ironhide: 97 GMC Crew Cab 4x4 Cummins SOLD: '69 GMC 1/2T SWB TBI'd: Project No Buck Assembly Manual Index Sign up Thread!!! Factory Service Manual Index

10-31-2002, 08:49 PM	#10
71Blazer Goodbye Darlin' Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Coupeville, WA USA Posts: 330	Yeah, right I've been looking at copper and aluminum (header) gaskets instead of the cheapo's that were on it when I bought it. Are the Cu and Al gaskets worth the price? No, I don't intend to reseal the blown ones... Thanks! __________________ 1971 Blazer CST SOLD!

10-31-2002, 09:06 PM	#11
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	one piece fel pro ones rule as far as header gaskets go, i always replace gaskets with manifold gaskets, work fine and dont burn out. sometimes do grind down some of the protruding weld where tubes are welded to header head flange. good luck

11-01-2002, 03:18 AM	#12
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,300	I agree, one piece on my own vehicle no doubt! But unfortunatly not every customer wants to pay that extra amount at the shop For the multi peice oil pan gaskets, here is the method I use at the shop. Clean all surface area's with brake clean, make sure NO oil is there. using Permatex grey (vulcanizing, high temp) lay a small bead on the end rails (main bearing cap and timing cover), lay the rubber seals in place but not pressed in completly. Next using 3M weatherstrip adhesive, run a small bead of adhesive down the engine block rail, each side. Place your gasket onto the block, sliding the gasket end tabs under the rubber end seals, press rubber end seals down and allow the 3M to setup (1-2 minutes). Now run a thin coating of the grey silicone on both gaskets AND the rubber end seals. Be sure to add a little extra in the corners. You can use just about any quick adhesive to hold the gaskets in place, but I prefer using the 3M because it does add some sealing properties to the gasket. Instead of "quick tack" that simply holds the gasket. Here's the point where you will either create a leak or ensure a good seal. Tightening the pan bolts! Tighten all bolts evenly until the gasket just barely starts to push towards the edge of the pan. If you over tighten these bolts, you can and will crush the pan gasket to the point of seperation.



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