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Old 11-21-2006, 05:29 PM   #1
72lb4x4
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72 K10 can't remove spindle

The Chevy manual says to remove the locking hubs, disk, backing plate, etc. then remove the 6 nuts and bolts attaching the spindle to the knuckle, and tap lightly with a soft hammer on the end of the spindle.

There's even a picture to illustrate in the manual.

Well, lots of not so light beating on the spindle through a 2x4 with a not so soft hammer and the spindle still won't budge.

I soaked the thing with penetrating oil over night.

I even heated the spidle flange where it mates to the knuckle with a torch and nothing.

It doesn't seem that rust could keep the spindle and knuckle so firmly attached to each other.

Any suggestions?

Last edited by 72lb4x4; 11-21-2006 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 11-21-2006, 06:37 PM   #2
qksilver
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Re: 72 K10 can't remove spindle

There is a tool I use that threads on the end of the spindle. You then thread a slide hammer into the end of the tool. You then slide hammer it off.
A lot of people on the board have had no problem getting them off. I haven't , so I bought the tool years ago.
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Old 11-21-2006, 08:21 PM   #3
LONGHAIR
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Re: 72 K10 can't remove spindle

The slide-hammer tool is the way to go. I have had one for years. IIRC the brand name on mine is Lisle.

Yup, I found a link to it too....

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=240


Someone will probably comment on the $50+ price, but it beats the alternative. A destroyed spindle will cost you at least that much.

BTW, when you get it apart, be sure to check the inner bearing and seal. There is a small needle-bearing inside the spindle that the axle rides on. This is often overlooked.

Last edited by LONGHAIR; 11-21-2006 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 11-21-2006, 09:31 PM   #4
72lb4x4
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Re: 72 K10 can't remove spindle

I googled it after I posted and found that Autozone loans that tool P/N 27104. It took 30 seconds to get the one off and not much more on the other side after tearing it down to get at it.

Thanks for the replies!

How much in and out play should there be in the front axles? There are no clips on the end of the short axle shafts by the locking hubs, although the manual says to remove them during disassembly. The axle probably moves between 1/8 and something less than 1/4 inch in and out of the axle tube.

Similarly, how much up/down/side to side play should there be? They seem a bit wobbly with the hubs off. I'd guess this is pretty normal with no hubs.

Lastly, the inside of the axle tubes has some crud and dirt in there. Shouldn't there be some sort of seal at the outer ends of the axle tubes? I see no evidence of a seal there... I'll also be taking the differential cove off the change the lube, clean up and see if there are seals on the inside.

I guess I need an overhaul manual for an exploded view of some of this stuff since the factory shop manual is a little thin in this area.

Thanks again.
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Old 11-25-2006, 02:07 PM   #5
LONGHAIR
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Re: 72 K10 can't remove spindle

Quote:
How much in and out play should there be in the front axles? There are no clips on the end of the short axle shafts by the locking hubs, although the manual says to remove them during disassembly. The axle probably moves between 1/8 and something less than 1/4 inch in and out of the axle tube.
That sounds right as far as amount of play goes, but there should be a snap-ring in the end of the outer axle. This serves two purposes. It keeps the axle shaft tight against the back of the spindle. This maintains the contact of the large rubber seal, which keeps the water/mud out and the grease in. It also keeps the joint area of the axle centered on the pivot point of the ball-joints.
If someone has removed them, get new ones.

Quote:
Similarly, how much up/down/side to side play should there be? They seem a bit wobbly with the hubs off. I'd guess this is pretty normal with no hubs.
"It depends" upon how much movement you are talking about. You are correct about the no support while the lock-out hubs are removed, but they only support the outer part of the axle. There is a small set of needle bearings (or a bronze bushing depending upon year/axle model) that support the inner part of the outer axle. The needle bearing type has a small lip-seal that looks kinda like an o-ring. It goes in last...as in after the bearing is replaced. IIRC the bronze type didn't have this seal, they had more of a thrust washer type flange.

Quote:
Lastly, the inside of the axle tubes has some crud and dirt in there. Shouldn't there be some sort of seal at the outer ends of the axle tubes? I see no evidence of a seal there... I'll also be taking the differential cove off the change the lube, clean up and see if there are seals on the inside.
There is a seal, but it was way down the tube. Actually it is behind the carrier bearing. You have to pull the carrier out to get to them. They were not designed to keep the water/mud out of the tube, just the bearings and differential gears. It is good practice to clean the tubes when you pull the axles out. This will keep you from shoving that gunk into the carrier when you put them back in the housing.
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