Q for the electricians of the board..

[magnethead]

I have a DPT switch, center connection is common, one side is momentary, one side is solid state. BUT, it is rated 10 Amps at 250VAC and 20 amps at 125VAC (2500 watt), 3/4 HP.

I know you generally aren't supposed to use AC switches on DC current or vise-versa, but is this acceptable to use on a 12V system? I can't find a DC switch that has the same solid-state/momentary option. I plan to hook both Poles together to the same device (not sure what yet, getting ahead of myself there).



For those who like to keep things looking "stock" in the cab..and non-smokers...Here's the fun way of making a hidden switch panel. Sll that's left that I have to do is attach the front panel (sheet metal) and insert the switches. I'm going to put a rectangular blue lighted one, a pair of 5/8"D round illuminated switches, and hopefully the DPDT above if i can use it. That's all I think I can fit in it.

[hiway]

I reckon it depends on what load (device) you are planning for it....relays, lights, radio, etc.

[84 400]

cool idea no idea here on that certaion switch as i am electrically challenged.

good luck and great idea for switch mounting solves that cutting a hole in the dash issue well

[magnethead]

Originally Posted by 84 400

cool idea no idea here on that certaion switch as i am electrically challenged.

good luck and great idea for switch mounting solves that cutting a hole in the dash issue well

Too bad i didn't think of it sooner, i already have a 5/8" hole in my dash under the radio for my start button back when the rod in the column broke.

[magnethead]

also, if you leave enough lead length, you can flip the switches up, so the interior looks stock, meanwhile you have gadgets hidden behind and under the seat(s) and the switches for them hidden inside the dash.

[magnethead]

A cheap mock-up of the cheap switch panel

so far the only costing item is the round switch (something crazy like 2.50 at AZ)- the other 2 i found in our box of unknown contents in our shop. The ashtray i took from the junkyard, but not sure where i'm getting the sheetmetal..probably a friend.

[mhicks]

Shouldn't be any problem using the switch. Just don't overload it.

[JLANDRUM]

What exactly will the switch be used for. The switch will probably still work, but the specs will be completely different when used with a DC power source due to AC running on the HOT, GROUND and NEUTRAL scheme, while DC runs on POS and NEG voltages.

[magnethead]

I loked into it, based off UL findings, 125VAC and 12VDC have about the same arc-charge.

[boxrodz]

As the others posted, it depends on your use of the switch. A switch is usually rated for inductive circuits (i.e. motors) and, in your case, 20 Amps @ 125 VAC. As general rule of thumb, this translates to approximately 20 Amps @ 12 VDC. In a resistive circuit, the rating is probably doubled (40 Amps @ 12 VDC). If you plan to use it in a lamp circuit, then the rating is probably halved (10 Amps @ 12 VDC). As long as the switch has a 'crisp' on/off action, then it should be fine to use. If not, you could try Digi-Key (http://digikey.com/) or Jameco (http://www.jameco.com) to name a couple.

Using your ash tray as a switchbox should be trick.
Instead of using a metal back plate, have you thought about using a sheet of acrylic. With heat, you could form the edges around the opening of the ash tray. Then, you can tape off some borders around the switches (with pin stripping tape or ?) and paint the surface (or underside) of the acrylic. Then, in the ash tray, mount a low wattage lamp tied into your dash lights circuit and you would have an illuminated switchbox for night use. Get real fancy and you could illuminate some lettering or symbols on the acrylic surface.