Hoping to yank an engine for the first time this weekend.... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Canada20 · 11-05-2002, 11:34 AM

Hey all. I haven't tried this one before but I think it's probably the best place to start working on the old beast. I have a Haynes manual that talks about removing the engine but as always, I have more questions....

Can I pull the engine and trans together? (292 with SM465).

Once I get things out of the truck, what can I do for putting them down. This is probably my biggest problem since I don't have a nicely paved work space much less a garage; just gravel for me. I'm working on a pretty tight budget these days and my tools are limited so buying or fabbing a stand is probably beyond my means for the time being. I assume the trans will sit OK on the ground as long as I put it on a tarp or some plywood or something.

Thanks,

Greg

lpaine · 11-05-2002, 02:20 PM

Greg- I don't know if you can pull engine and trans together- you might not have enough room to pull both forward to get the end of the trans clear of the firewall- is your trans still working well? if so, just leave it in (blocks underneath it, of course, to support it) I have'nt pulled an engine and trans together, just the engine itself . If you are working outside on a gravel surface, you'll want to use a sheet of 3/4" plywood to move the engine hoist around on. The hoist will be hard to move around on the gravel once it has the weight of the engine on it (been there, done that). Set the plywood underneath so that you have enough room to move the hoist back away from the truck and still be able to keep the hoist wheels on the plywood. If you don't have an engine stand, you can set the engine on some short pieces of 2x4 set underneath the engine mounts to keep the engines weight off the oilpan- also use 2x4s at front or back of engine to keep it from tilting to either end. Someone else may be able to tell you differently on pulling trans and engine together, Good luck. Lpaine

**COBALT** · 11-05-2002, 02:58 PM

I just pulled my th400 this weekend, and I can honestly say no way to the engine-tranny pull at the same time. I realize you have a smaller setup, but still...It would be harder to do them together than it would be to take them out one at a time in my opinion. The whole thing would be a$$ heavy, and you'd have to have someone underneath guiding it through the x-member and bottom of the cab past the firewall. The only time I've ever seen these pulled at the same time is when a rolling chasis is being built or the cab is missing.

I also wouldn't attempt pulling the engine without a very good engine stand with 4 solid wheels and legs (not the 3 legged excuse for an engine stand). Your motor will end up on the floor. Get one you know will be easy to roll around and rotate. They're not that expensive, and are a good investment (a good one is). The few times I've worked with engines out of the car I realized really fast that mobility is the key.

da-burb · 11-05-2002, 03:00 PM

I pulled a 350 with 4speed out of a 72 GMC as one piece. I used a saws-all to slice the firewall open so the shifter hump would slide out. There isn't enough room to get the transmission over the top of the crossmember and under the cab. I did this on a concrete floor in the shed with the engine nearly vertical and it still would fit through. So you will need to seperate the 2.

A V8 sits nicely in an old tire. I don't know what you can do with a 6 popper.

da-burb · 11-05-2002, 03:07 PM

By the way, I prefer pulling the engines and auto trannys together. It is easier to put it back in all together too. The key is to have an engine leveler. It allows you to change the angle of the engine with the turn of a screw. It was the best $40 US that I ever spent.

da-burb · 11-05-2002, 03:19 PM

ATD 7529 is the brand and model number, top left corner of picture. I would pull an engine without it any more.

Canada20 · 11-05-2002, 04:10 PM

Good replies, thanks.

Since I'm going to be removing the bellhousing crossmember anyway, would the engine+tranny lift be possible then? Not that I'm determined to try it, just thought that having the trans out of the truck would make it easier to check against the engine that's going in. I've heard the lift late is a good thing before, maybe I'll look into that. I'll think more about the stand; probably really going to need one at some point anyway I just really need to keep costs down on this little adventure.

I'll have to crawl around under the truck a little more when I can and get some more ideas...I wonder if Home Depot will deliver plywood....hmmm

Greg

Blue_71 · 11-05-2002, 04:23 PM

i pulled the 355 and SM465 out of my 4x4 as one peice, straight out the front with no radiator support in. it wasnt any trouble on mine, just takes 2 people (one to stand on the frame rails and hold up the tranny and one to pull the cherry picker) but, one mine, it was because it was a 4x4.. only cross member is under the t-case, none under the tranny

GreenMystChevy · 11-05-2002, 04:40 PM

I have pulled the tranny and engine together in both a buddies '72 with a 350 backed by a TH-350, and also a 307 backed by a 3 speed out of my '71. Both were piece of cake, just had the truck up on blocks, pulled the engine most of the way, then slowly dropped the truck. Did this in my Chevelle with a big block and TH-400, didn't scratch a thing.

One thing that you need though is another person to help you out with this because the engine needs to be tilted on its way out, that's where the leveler would help out tremendously. I love taking it out this way, nice and easy from up top, most of the time anyways.

As far as where to put that motor, an old tire works wonders.

I don't think it would even be possible to go without a sheet of plywood as mentioned before. The cherry picker will want to dig into that gravel and not move at all.

Good luck!

Canada20 · 11-05-2002, 04:50 PM

how about putting the trans on the ground? I think the manual should be OK (if I decide to pull it, that is) but when I pull the 454 out of the donor, I might pull the trans with it to sell.

I wonder if the old tires I happen to have will have enough squish-room to hold up an engine....

Lotsa good info folks, thanks again (I'll try and quit popping in and out of my own thread and post-whoring like this, honest)

Greg

Also, I'm planning on pulling the front sheetmetal off. I bet it would help with getting a crossmember for disk brakes under there as well as all this engine/trans stuff.

jmil1974 · 11-05-2002, 05:11 PM

Well, I pulled my 350 by myself with the hood on. I think I could have pulled it and the TH350 as one piece by pulling the hood (Pain in the ass) and possibly the radiator support. I think the effort of pulling the engine/tranny as one vs. pulling and reinstalling/adjusting the hood will be about even. My .02 . ..

Custom 68 · 11-05-2002, 05:19 PM

I pulled my 327 with 400 turbo in one shot had hood off no other sheet metal. you just got to get it up real high in the front to clear the rad support. It wasnt bad. I now have all the fenders and rad suport out so it will go in much eaiser (if I ever get it complete)

sub4rvr · 11-06-2002, 12:04 AM

Two weeks ago I pulled and replaced my 350/350 with both parts together. The way we had it angled, we had to pull up on the rear of the trans with our hands because the top of the hoist was about to knock down my lights. It's nice to have a wife and kids that don't mind getting dirty.

sub4rvr · 11-06-2002, 12:05 AM

more pics.

sub4rvr · 11-06-2002, 12:05 AM

.........

meathead95 · 11-06-2002, 12:55 AM

must be nice dude mine bit@hes if i ask her to hand me a dirty wrench.

O'l Buck · 11-06-2002, 03:22 AM

I've never pulled one with a manual trans hooked to it, have pulled several with automatics though and the manual cab has a higher hump than the automatic in most cases. Should be no prob to get them out as 1 unit. If all else fails, find someone with a good loader tractor and pick it up and shake it......hehe.....

Having never done this before, your gonna want to mark all the wires and hoses (I use masking tape and number everything when I mark stuff)...if you let them down easy, you can get by without using any tires or cushion under them. I have a 455 Olds with a Th400 sitting on concrete in the barn, it's never had a tire under it and the oil pan has no dings whatsoever. Good luck and have fun.

bigjimzlll · 11-06-2002, 10:14 AM

I used to pull motor and tranny together a million years ago. in the sand s of Florida...I moved the truck instead of moving the engine stand...just a thought
Jim

Canada20 · 11-06-2002, 10:35 AM

Fortunately my landlord owns a rental shop (that's situated on the other side of my fence) and he's willing to let me borrow equipment as long as no one wants to rent it at that time; that idea of usig the front end loader to give the truck a good shake might be tempting.

I was thinking about moving the truck from under the hoist at one point, sorta forgot about that; good idea!
I think I'm going to go ahead and tear the sheetmetal off the front-end. That way I can drag some of it inside during the winter months and work on patching fenders and repainting things for the spring. I bet taking that stuff off of there is going to take most of my time this weekend anyway

Thanks for the tips!

Greg

11-05-2002, 11:34 AM	#1
Canada20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 802	Hoping to yank an engine for the first time this weekend.... Hey all. I haven't tried this one before but I think it's probably the best place to start working on the old beast. I have a Haynes manual that talks about removing the engine but as always, I have more questions.... Can I pull the engine and trans together? (292 with SM465). Once I get things out of the truck, what can I do for putting them down. This is probably my biggest problem since I don't have a nicely paved work space much less a garage; just gravel for me. I'm working on a pretty tight budget these days and my tools are limited so buying or fabbing a stand is probably beyond my means for the time being. I assume the trans will sit OK on the ground as long as I put it on a tarp or some plywood or something. Thanks, Greg __________________ No such thing as a stupid question, right?

11-05-2002, 02:20 PM	#2
lpaine Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Parksville, B.C. Canada Posts: 637	engine pull Greg- I don't know if you can pull engine and trans together- you might not have enough room to pull both forward to get the end of the trans clear of the firewall- is your trans still working well? if so, just leave it in (blocks underneath it, of course, to support it) I have'nt pulled an engine and trans together, just the engine itself . If you are working outside on a gravel surface, you'll want to use a sheet of 3/4" plywood to move the engine hoist around on. The hoist will be hard to move around on the gravel once it has the weight of the engine on it (been there, done that). Set the plywood underneath so that you have enough room to move the hoist back away from the truck and still be able to keep the hoist wheels on the plywood. If you don't have an engine stand, you can set the engine on some short pieces of 2x4 set underneath the engine mounts to keep the engines weight off the oilpan- also use 2x4s at front or back of engine to keep it from tilting to either end. Someone else may be able to tell you differently on pulling trans and engine together, Good luck. Lpaine __________________ 1969 G.M.C 3/4 Ton 920 (Canadian Version) 307 3 speed, currently apart 1998 Chevy 1/2 ton ex cab V-6 5 speed 1967 Chevy SWB - project truck; not started just yet

11-05-2002, 02:58 PM	#3
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I just pulled my th400 this weekend, and I can honestly say no way to the engine-tranny pull at the same time. I realize you have a smaller setup, but still...It would be harder to do them together than it would be to take them out one at a time in my opinion. The whole thing would be a$$ heavy, and you'd have to have someone underneath guiding it through the x-member and bottom of the cab past the firewall. The only time I've ever seen these pulled at the same time is when a rolling chasis is being built or the cab is missing. I also wouldn't attempt pulling the engine without a very good engine stand with 4 solid wheels and legs (not the 3 legged excuse for an engine stand). Your motor will end up on the floor. Get one you know will be easy to roll around and rotate. They're not that expensive, and are a good investment (a good one is). The few times I've worked with engines out of the car I realized really fast that mobility is the key. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. Last edited by COBALT; 11-05-2002 at 03:01 PM.

11-05-2002, 03:00 PM	#4
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	I pulled a 350 with 4speed out of a 72 GMC as one piece. I used a saws-all to slice the firewall open so the shifter hump would slide out. There isn't enough room to get the transmission over the top of the crossmember and under the cab. I did this on a concrete floor in the shed with the engine nearly vertical and it still would fit through. So you will need to seperate the 2. A V8 sits nicely in an old tire. I don't know what you can do with a 6 popper. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

11-05-2002, 03:07 PM	#5
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	By the way, I prefer pulling the engines and auto trannys together. It is easier to put it back in all together too. The key is to have an engine leveler. It allows you to change the angle of the engine with the turn of a screw. It was the best $40 US that I ever spent. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

11-05-2002, 03:19 PM	#6
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	ATD 7529 is the brand and model number, top left corner of picture. I would pull an engine without it any more. Attached Images __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

11-05-2002, 04:10 PM	#7
Canada20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 802	Good replies, thanks. Since I'm going to be removing the bellhousing crossmember anyway, would the engine+tranny lift be possible then? Not that I'm determined to try it, just thought that having the trans out of the truck would make it easier to check against the engine that's going in. I've heard the lift late is a good thing before, maybe I'll look into that. I'll think more about the stand; probably really going to need one at some point anyway I just really need to keep costs down on this little adventure. I'll have to crawl around under the truck a little more when I can and get some more ideas...I wonder if Home Depot will deliver plywood....hmmm Greg __________________ No such thing as a stupid question, right?

11-05-2002, 04:40 PM	#9
GreenMystChevy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Woodinville, WA Posts: 513	I have pulled the tranny and engine together in both a buddies '72 with a 350 backed by a TH-350, and also a 307 backed by a 3 speed out of my '71. Both were piece of cake, just had the truck up on blocks, pulled the engine most of the way, then slowly dropped the truck. Did this in my Chevelle with a big block and TH-400, didn't scratch a thing. One thing that you need though is another person to help you out with this because the engine needs to be tilted on its way out, that's where the leveler would help out tremendously. I love taking it out this way, nice and easy from up top, most of the time anyways. As far as where to put that motor, an old tire works wonders. I don't think it would even be possible to go without a sheet of plywood as mentioned before. The cherry picker will want to dig into that gravel and not move at all. Good luck! __________________ Jeremy '71 C-10 '72 GMC K2500 '72 Nova (Dad's) '70 Chevelle SS '55 Sedan Delivery Attempting to build up this here 4x4...make her real tall and purty...well, maybe just tall

11-05-2002, 04:50 PM	#10
Canada20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 802	how about putting the trans on the ground? I think the manual should be OK (if I decide to pull it, that is) but when I pull the 454 out of the donor, I might pull the trans with it to sell. I wonder if the old tires I happen to have will have enough squish-room to hold up an engine.... Lotsa good info folks, thanks again (I'll try and quit popping in and out of my own thread and post-whoring like this, honest) Greg Also, I'm planning on pulling the front sheetmetal off. I bet it would help with getting a crossmember for disk brakes under there as well as all this engine/trans stuff. __________________ No such thing as a stupid question, right? Last edited by Canada20; 11-05-2002 at 04:56 PM.

11-05-2002, 05:11 PM	#11
jmil1974 Ain't we cute? Join Date: May 2002 Location: Friendswood, TX Posts: 700	Well, I pulled my 350 by myself with the hood on. I think I could have pulled it and the TH350 as one piece by pulling the hood (Pain in the ass) and possibly the radiator support. I think the effort of pulling the engine/tranny as one vs. pulling and reinstalling/adjusting the hood will be about even. My .02 . .. __________________ 69 C10 2WD LWB Fleet 350/350 power front disc conversion (6 lug disc kit from gmcpauls) and new engine, PS, A/C, fresh fluids, SHE DRIVES! FOR SALE $3900

11-05-2002, 05:19 PM	#12
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	I pulled my 327 with 400 turbo in one shot had hood off no other sheet metal. you just got to get it up real high in the front to clear the rad support. It wasnt bad. I now have all the fenders and rad suport out so it will go in much eaiser (if I ever get it complete) __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

11-06-2002, 12:04 AM	#13
sub4rvr Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Palm Springs, Ca. Posts: 574	Two weeks ago I pulled and replaced my 350/350 with both parts together. The way we had it angled, we had to pull up on the rear of the trans with our hands because the top of the hoist was about to knock down my lights. It's nice to have a wife and kids that don't mind getting dirty. Attached Images __________________ 72 C10 Suburban 90 S10 57 F100 (2) 67 Mustang (2) 69 Torino GT 00 Mustang GT Conv. Last edited by sub4rvr; 11-06-2002 at 12:06 AM.

11-06-2002, 12:05 AM	#14
sub4rvr Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Palm Springs, Ca. Posts: 574	more pics. Attached Images __________________ 72 C10 Suburban 90 S10 57 F100 (2) 67 Mustang (2) 69 Torino GT 00 Mustang GT Conv.

11-06-2002, 12:05 AM	#15
sub4rvr Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Palm Springs, Ca. Posts: 574	......... Attached Images __________________ 72 C10 Suburban 90 S10 57 F100 (2) 67 Mustang (2) 69 Torino GT 00 Mustang GT Conv.

11-06-2002, 12:55 AM	#16
meathead95 computer illiterate Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Des Moines, IA Posts: 6,446	must be nice dude mine bit@hes if i ask her to hand me a dirty wrench. __________________ 72 2wd blazer 72 swb 4x4



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

11-06-2002, 03:22 AM	#17
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	I've never pulled one with a manual trans hooked to it, have pulled several with automatics though and the manual cab has a higher hump than the automatic in most cases. Should be no prob to get them out as 1 unit. If all else fails, find someone with a good loader tractor and pick it up and shake it......hehe..... Having never done this before, your gonna want to mark all the wires and hoses (I use masking tape and number everything when I mark stuff)...if you let them down easy, you can get by without using any tires or cushion under them. I have a 455 Olds with a Th400 sitting on concrete in the barn, it's never had a tire under it and the oil pan has no dings whatsoever. Good luck and have fun. __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

11-06-2002, 10:14 AM	#18
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	I used to pull motor and tranny together a million years ago. in the sand s of Florida...I moved the truck instead of moving the engine stand...just a thought Jim __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

11-06-2002, 10:35 AM	#19
Canada20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 802	Fortunately my landlord owns a rental shop (that's situated on the other side of my fence) and he's willing to let me borrow equipment as long as no one wants to rent it at that time; that idea of usig the front end loader to give the truck a good shake might be tempting. I was thinking about moving the truck from under the hoist at one point, sorta forgot about that; good idea! I think I'm going to go ahead and tear the sheetmetal off the front-end. That way I can drag some of it inside during the winter months and work on patching fenders and repainting things for the spring. I bet taking that stuff off of there is going to take most of my time this weekend anyway Thanks for the tips! Greg __________________ No such thing as a stupid question, right?

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.