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#1 |
Registered User
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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For BOWTIEOGRE
Fuel cell dims and pics of tank installed with hidden hitch.
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72 Cheyenne SWB Fleet Nut & bolt frame off in progress...99.9999% - supercharged 383 - 4 wheel discs - relocated fuel tank - ![]() My Build Thread Last edited by SactoJim; 10-04-2007 at 05:17 PM. |
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#2 |
Chief Honcho In Charge
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bentonville AR
Posts: 970
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Is that shortned rear frame ...or just my imagination? Looks so short.
I am going to do the same thing...hidden hitch and fuel cell.
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1992 1500 4x4 Shortbed 1984 Ford F250 Supercab Longbed 6.9L Diesel 1972 K10 Cheyenne Super Fleetside Short Bed - 350 - A/C 1971 VW SuperBeetle 1960 Wife 1984 Son 1986 Son 1989 Son Previous Trucks 1967 C10 SWB (1980-1981) 1971 C10 LWB (1998-2004) |
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#3 |
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Normal SWB frame.
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72 Cheyenne SWB Fleet Nut & bolt frame off in progress...99.9999% - supercharged 383 - 4 wheel discs - relocated fuel tank - ![]() My Build Thread |
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#4 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Who makes the C-Notch you used? Bolt-ins usually look like crap, but that actually looks pretty damned nice.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#5 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Oh - other questions for you -
Will fuel actually go into the "hump" towards the front of the truck? How does the air bubble escape? Is it vented on both humps? Also, how will you change the fuel pump? I see the fittings on the rear pass. side corner for fuel pump, but ... it looks like they are just kinda directly bolted in. Only access to the fuel pump looks like it would be cutting the top of the tank off. Are you going to install a rear crossmember to replace the one you removed? There is nothing in place to brace the top half of the framerail in those pics. The hidden hitch will brace the bottom half from flex, but not the top. Thanks for the feedback.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 12-01-2006 at 12:17 PM. |
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#6 |
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Hey Shifty......good questions and ya got me thinking on one of em.
I'm using a High volume mechanical pump that goes into a regulator with a return that empties at the front "hump". The rear "hump" has the feed and vent plumbed into it. I'm wondering about that front "hump" and if it will fill with fuel or not because there is no vent. Between the return and the fuel sloshing around, I’m hoping it will be fine. What do you think? I’m not worried about the lack of frame stiffness. I took that brace out years ago when I installed the hitch. Between the hitch and the bed being bolted back on as well as the bumper, I can’t imagine that it makes much of a difference. It might make some difference if it had leafs, but all the suspension pick up points are in front of the rear axle (except the panhard bar). …and that C notch. A number of years ago there was a guy that ran a small ad in some of the misc truck magazines. He had a small unimpressive website and I can’t remember his name nor do I think he’s around anymore. I bought those and some front upper shock mount relocators from him and they came in raw steel.
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72 Cheyenne SWB Fleet Nut & bolt frame off in progress...99.9999% - supercharged 383 - 4 wheel discs - relocated fuel tank - ![]() My Build Thread |
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#7 |
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Location: Laramie, WY
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Couldn't you just do a vent tube from one hump to the other when building it? A piece of tubing from top of one hump under channel and to the top of the other? I realize it's not something you can do now, but something that could be done when building. As a retrofit, could you do a set of tubes that connect on the side (j tubes in tank, connected externally, maybe in the frame rail)?
Sorry if you already have it figured, I'd like to learn a little about this, I may be doing it someday!
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There is a theory which states that if ever anyone discovers exactly what the Universe is for and why it is here, it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable.There is another theory which states that this has already happened. - Douglas Adams '67 GMC 4x4, 305 V6! Or all the parts for anyway... '17 Subaru Outback. '18 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road. '99 Ducati 900SS. |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
I'm not sure if it will fill or not. I'm not good with figuring out that stuff, and I couldn't help but wonder - I know it is required to displace the air inside the tank in order for water to go in it. What needs to be determined is whether or not the return line (in the forward passenger side) will adequately pass the air out of the system....and, in reality, when that happens, is it going to cause a problem? what happens if you shoot pressurized air into the return line as the gas displaces things?.
In eyeballing it, I'm guessing that the forward hump is good for about 1½-1¾ gals of fuel. I'm not 100% sure from a design standpoint if I would have included the front hump or not, and I'm also not sure if I would have put the return line there. However, I believe there is a simple fix. They sell one-way valves - I think they're used on dirtbikes? - basically, if you installed a one-way valve in the tank that would let air OUT, but would stop if something tried to come back in, this would probably solve any problem you encountered. The big question would be - will the return line interfere with the functionality of the valve, and would it need to be moved? I suppose if it caused a problem, you could remove the return line on the rear hump and put a one-way valve in its place. In case you don't know what I'm talking about with the "1-way valve" thing, look at this: http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/1662/PU/0703-0088
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#9 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
A crossmember/bed support fits in that channel, so nothing can really pass back and forth without cutting the crossmember or bed support (from what I can tell). It would also need to go from the very top of one tank to the very top of the other, or the air will only pass back and forth at the height you stick in the tube.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#10 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Last comment, I swear.
Here is an example of how I would have made the tank - this is something another member from Hawaii had done in the past with a customer's truck - same design, but deletes the problem with pent up gasses in the front hump:
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 12-01-2006 at 02:32 PM. |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: fort worth texas
Posts: 395
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
thats a nice truck do u have any more pics of it
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#12 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Only one, and that's of the interior. Sorry!
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#13 |
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![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Laramie, WY
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Shifty- I had thought about the x-member, that's why thought went to something internal, like a u-shaped vent tube internally. But, only possible if you do it while building. Otherwise, you would have to suss an external x-over.
Looking again though, is it really ever going to be an issue? At 3" high, and if your reckoning only 1-2 gallons space there, how often is it going to be that full (within 4 gallons of absolute capacity, figuring both humps)?
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There is a theory which states that if ever anyone discovers exactly what the Universe is for and why it is here, it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable.There is another theory which states that this has already happened. - Douglas Adams '67 GMC 4x4, 305 V6! Or all the parts for anyway... '17 Subaru Outback. '18 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road. '99 Ducati 900SS. |
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#14 |
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
That's my thought too. I can't imagine there would be enough pressure in that side to hold back any return fuel and though I would like the tank to hold it's full capacity, it's not that big of deal. Never-the-less, I'm gonna probably put a vent on that side.
Question: What would be the easiest way to do that without welding.....I'm thinking drill a hole just big enough for a nipple type fitting and epoxy it in.
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72 Cheyenne SWB Fleet Nut & bolt frame off in progress...99.9999% - supercharged 383 - 4 wheel discs - relocated fuel tank - ![]() My Build Thread Last edited by SactoJim; 12-02-2006 at 03:22 AM. |
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#15 |
FUEL CELL GURU
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Mineola, Texas
Posts: 993
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Jim,
I can't remember the specifics but being that the tank is a bed fill, you will not need to vent the "back side" of the tank, only the "front" side. I see three fittings on the tank with two being at the back. Can you use one as a return and the front fitting as a vent? Later, Mark |
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#16 |
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Re: For BOWTIEOGRE
Hey Mark,
Never got a chance to say thanks for doing such a nice job on my tank. I'm not too concerned about it and I have already plumbed my return to the front of the tank. I'm just going to drill a hole and tap it for a small brass elbow. I believe the material is 1/8" and it should be fine with a little epoxy to seal and make sure it stays in place. Thanks again!
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72 Cheyenne SWB Fleet Nut & bolt frame off in progress...99.9999% - supercharged 383 - 4 wheel discs - relocated fuel tank - ![]() My Build Thread |
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