Help with LT1 in 68 C10

[tcsanadi]

I just bought a 94 Buick Roadmaster, pulled the LT1 and 700R4 out and I am going to put it in my 68. I still have a few unknowns, What am I going to use for a gas tank I want to move it underneath and run external pump, throttle cable, and can I block off the EGR, or do I need it. I know I am going to need to get corvette pulley system to move the AC up, I am sure I will have more questions as I dig into this project but that is all for now.

Thanks

[72CSTC5]

Get with member "Rokcrln" he has one in his truck. He may be able to help you out.

[NPilot1975]

You can remove all emissions including the EGR, you just need to let whomever reprograms your computer and it will keep you from getting error messages. I put one in a 71 GMC and the stock Z28 throttle cable worked with my stock gas pedal. I went with a Rock Valley stainless steel fuel tank with the pump inside the tank. There are a few board members who can also build you a tank. I would recommend going with an intank fuel pump, it will last longer.

[Misstur_big]

Originally Posted by tcsanadi

I just bought a 94 Buick Roadmaster, pulled the LT1 and 700R4 out and I am going to put it in my 68. I still have a few unknowns, What am I going to use for a gas tank I want to move it underneath and run external pump, throttle cable, and can I block off the EGR, or do I need it. I know I am going to need to get corvette pulley system to move the AC up, I am sure I will have more questions as I dig into this project but that is all for now.

Thanks

Lets start with the fuel tank. You need a tank with an internal pump. It will also have to have baffles for sloshing. The last thing you want is a starvation situation with low fuel. Some will argue this point with me and say a external pump will do just fine and it will until your down to 1/8-1/4 tank and you make a corner and you loose prime. You will have a ***** of a time restarting.
I have done it both ways. Make sure the pump you use is 55-65psi.
I had a nice aluminum frame tank made with baffles, pump and sender for about $800.00. I cant remember the name of the company but if you need it pm me and I will find it.
You will also need a fuel regulator and a high pressure return line.
You can block off the egr but remember to reflash your pcm accordingly.
You also wont need EVAP or VATS. The Vette pulley system will wok fine. A little pricey but...
Throttle cable is not an issue. Steet and strip sell it and everything else you need.

[Huck]

The in-tank fuel pump is a must for fuel injection on the newer mtrs. A custom tank is great buttttt--you can probably save some $$$ by considering a alternative--look into maybe a Jeep Tank that could mount between the frame under the bed in the back. It is about the right size, has an internal pump, and would be a whole lot less expensive. They came in two sizes too. Just a thought~~~.

[Slammed70]

Thats not an LT1....its a 4.3L 265 Gen II engine. Its got the same problems as the LT1s though so they're about the same. But its got cast iron heads (which flow better then the aluminum). And I would recommend the F-body bracketry because the 'Vette brackets stick the compressor WAY out on the drivers side. And with the F-body bracketry it puts the compressor on the passenger side.....less AC lines to run/manuever around.

And since its 94 that makes it OBD1 so just rip all the emmisions stuff off and throw them in your neighbors yard.

One thing I would recomend is spending $1500 and upgrading your Opti- to the 95-97 vented units.

[bdshort86]

Originally Posted by Slammed70

Thats not an LT1....its a 4.3L 265 Gen II engine.

Why couldn't it be a 5.7?

[Slammed70]

Originally Posted by bdshort86

Why couldn't it be a 5.7?

Cuz the Buicks and the Caddilac (I think Fleetwood, Im not sure) had the P engine code 5.7s.

Is the car still around tcsanadi? Whats the 8th digit on the VIN?

[skchevota]

Originally Posted by Slammed70

Thats not an LT1....its a 4.3L 265 Gen II engine. Its got the same problems as the LT1s though so they're about the same. But its got cast iron heads (which flow better then the aluminum). And I would recommend the F-body bracketry because the 'Vette brackets stick the compressor WAY out on the drivers side. And with the F-body bracketry it puts the compressor on the passenger side.....less AC lines to run/manuever around.

And since its 94 that makes it OBD1 so just rip all the emmisions stuff off and throw them in your neighbors yard.

One thing I would recomend is spending $1500 and upgrading your Opti- to the 95-97 vented units.

You can buy the ventid opti new from summit for like $4oo.
I had a 95 LT1 in my truck be fore the cummins, I removed all the emisions crap, I used a VATS bypass modual that cost $80 bucks, I cutt the factory harness and added the apropriat fuses to it and used a 90 suburban fuel tank with a 92 camero pump. It ran sweet with no computer reprogram. Thats how to do it on the cheap. BTW the ac compressor will hit the frame with the camero brackets.I found a way around this as well. let me know if you need mor info on it.

[Slammed70]

[QUOTE=skchevota;1915426]You can buy the ventid opti new from summit for like $4oo.QUOTE]

But then you need the 95-97 timing cover with the big hole and a hollow distributor for the seal shaft to recess into. Not to mention the Opti- harness with the "long" pigtail.

[bagged70]

i am running an 87 s10 blazer tank in the rear of mine 15 gal the lt1 fuel from a caprice fit in the stock location of the tank most of the cads. buicks had what they call the (babby lt1 4.3 i dont know the engine code for this but the casting # is 10168588 on the block) not the 5.7 witch is a p engine code any local parts store sales the vented opti for around 250.00 with cap and rotor 125.00 with out i know oreilly autoparts does thats were i got mine the opti is the biggest doewn fall for the lt1 and here is a link for all the lt1 info from year to year http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm i hope this helps you out. i went with an aftermarket harness from street & performance in mena ar.

[Slammed70]

Dont run the Borgwarner Opti- from O'reillys....and for the love of god stay away from the **** they sell at Autozone.

Coming from experience, when it comes to the Opti- only run Delco.

[Fastfun]

There was only one block used for the 265 cid version of the LT1. It’s a 10168588 casting that had the numbers "4.3" cast on the side. It’s real easy to spot if the heads are off because of the small 3.74" bore. The 350 version had a casting number of 10125327 and was 2 bolt mains for Camaro's, Firebirds and Impala's and the Corvette had 4 bolt mains.

[Rokcrln]

Well I'm running the 93vett LT1 5.7 4bolt engine with a painless harness, reflashed chip from speed scene wiring. For a tank I had a SS one built by Fat Fender street rods (I would build my own next time) that is baffeled and uses the vett intank factory pump and hold 35gals. I am running 3/8" line for feed and return and it is SS braded for 2' off the tank then I went with 1pc hard line up to the factory motor braded lines. I also used the factory fuel filter on mine. I can post some pics Friday if you want. I just got mine fired up yester day and ran into a computer problem so the new comp will be here Friday.

Question for you, what are you guys using for a lower radiator hose? I am running the stock 71 truck radiator with a late 90's camero duel fan set up. Also does anyone know what computer pins to fire the fan relays into for duel control and A/C? Also on the back of the heads is a water tube that goes between the heads and then has a tube off to the passenger side. Does this need to be hooked up or can I remove it and put plugs in the holes(aluminum heads)?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[skchevota]

I ran a lower hose for 92 cheyy truck, and cut to length. YOU MUST KEEP THE TUBES BE HIND THE HEADS!!!!! these are steam vents due to the reverse flow cooling system. without them you will create hot spots in your heads. If you removed the colling lines from the throttle body then just T the tubes into your heater return hose.

[lilpup69chevy]

buick roadmasters did have lt1's available as well as just your typical caprices

[tcsanadi]

Well it is a 5.7, the block code is 10125327, I know one thing that car moved for a big boat can't wait to get it in the truck, I now have a corvette bracket set, do I need a different crank pulley or balancer to go with the new brackets, hopefully get started in a week or two. As soon as I round up a fuel tank,

Does anyone have a picture of the 90 Suburban tank? How much fuel does it hold?

Also I have a stock Auto Trans crossmember that I picked up a few years ago, will this work with the 4L60?

I am converting from a 3 speed column shift to the 4L60, I already have a tilt wheel auto column, what is the best way to connect the column to the trans, I have seen adjustable rods that look like they go straight to the trans, is this gonna work?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by tcsanadi

Well it is a 5.7, the block code is 10125327, I know one thing that car moved for a big boat can't wait to get it in the truck, I now have a corvette bracket set, do I need a different crank pulley or balancer to go with the new brackets, hopefully get started in a week or two. As soon as I round up a fuel tank,

Does anyone have a picture of the 90 Suburban tank? How much fuel does it hold?

Also I have a stock Auto Trans crossmember that I picked up a few years ago, will this work with the 4L60?

I am converting from a 3 speed column shift to the 4L60, I already have a tilt wheel auto column, what is the best way to connect the column to the trans, I have seen adjustable rods that look like they go straight to the trans, is this gonna work?

Here a some links that will probably answer most of your questions:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=52057